Jerry Moriah

Front of console? So that would be under cassette player? Or under shifter?

Here my old boards are next to the one I bought from Harry, U can see the scorching on both boards, especially where the heat browned the yellow plastic. I think the one from Harry is actually a little worse than mine as far as the plastic scorch marks. It may have had more usable life than mine did causing longer heat exposure? But the board from his actually has some green inbetween the components, my entire board is almost totally brown.

Well that didn't work, CRT wouldnt come on at all? Just did a lot of sweating!

Received the IPC from Harry. While I was in the car with a portable heater keeping it like hell itself in there, trying to get the CRT to come on while car was already fairly hot, but with no success, I plugged in the IPC. It did come on for a few seconds, went out for a while then came on for a few more seconds, then out again. I pulled it apart and it is definitely in far better shape then mine. I can see a few solder joints at the display probes that are not looking good. The center board, the one that I believe is the AC power supply board that Kirk referred, to has groupings of resisters at the top of the board, you can see that these areas of the board have some heat scorching, under R3, R17 and c19 over to R14. In the pics I have uploaded you can easily see the scorching on the yellow plastic mount it is laying on. Resisters do get hot, but I am guessing this is not good? Those big orange caps are glued down pretty good, they would be a fun to replace!

So, Was really hot in car, so CRT worked all the way home, replaced CPS, with door open of course, so car cooled down some. With new CPS, NO JOY old CPS back in still CRT doesn't come on, so either something else close to CPS is affected by the blow dryer blowing heat up in that area, or the Heat I applied to the CRT took some time to affect it's function? When I started blowing heat on CPS, CRT finally came on from heating it before hooking it up , then when I stopped blowing heat on CPS the inner workings of the CRT cooled off at the same time making it appear the CPS was responsible? I suppose I would need to pull CRT from hot car when it is working, cool it off, plug it back in and see if it works before it warms up? So where is the CRT controller?

I did use a jumper cable to ground directly to battery.

Acetone and transmission fluid, the machinists penetrate works miracles on old severely corroded exhaust studs. Also hot, then ice cold and penetrant while still a little hot, repeat, with patience, till it breaks free. Apply pressure immediately after cooling sensor body.

The first thing my CRT says is that there is an electrical issue, then low anti-lock brake pressure. If I knew how to use the diagnostics, would it have pinned down the CPS issue? I think I tried once, but that was a while ago, wasn't driving her much then.

Wish you would said something before I ordered one!

Thanks!

Just filled up, and range is showing 359 miles, divided by 18.8gal, equals 19mpgs? So hopefully I can Gage my range to empty till ICP is functioning, at least in warm weather. CRT didn't was just trying to come on when I pulled into work this morning, too cold.

Know that my CRT is staying on during my trip home, how accurate is the range feature in trip info? My fuel average is 21mpg. Wondering if it can keep my from running out of gas? Showing 304 miles. Probably did about an hour of driving since fill up.

U can get those from GM OEM parts shop, $88 to $91 plus shipping - $9.95 to $20 because I found more than one location, 1 year warranty. Tried to find the one with 2 year, gave up.

According to Rock Auto AC Delco part #19108183 fits the Reatta, can anyone confirm this?

Yea, some of my posts from my phone dont show up. My CRT stayed on all the way home today, heat set to 80, kick panel removed so I am guessing it is the heat on the CPS? But maybe the 5 minute carb cleaner and compressed air cleanup helped Normally as cold as it was, and no sunshine, it wouldnt have come on at all.

Will the car run/drive with out CPS plugged in? With wipers and lights working?

Apparently posting it here was not to smart! Didn't have time to complete the transaction till last break, but was gone then!

Looks like the AC Delco has a 2 year warranty, and smaller core charge.

63 Viking, Is that pic your engine?

So put her in hot, no joy, put blow dryer on CPS and the CRT came on after a short while! Took blow dryer away from CPS and the CRT went off. So can A good CPS be bought? And it has one of those connectors from hell! Pushed up tight to brake switch wiring... Just hoping for heat the next couple mornings, cranked her to 80!

Just popped top on CRT, quite a bit of corrosion dust fell onto board under cathode tube, there is a large 4 contact device with brown W shaped heatsink, I think? It was covered in rust dust, I'm sure it was shorting out. Red gue all over the board under cathode tube, guessing from green capacitor under tube? Tried to do a quick dust wash, gonna blow dry it to evaporate any solvent and warm it up and see if I can set my heat! Wish me luck!

I actually want to start with IPC, would like to get the one from Harry as quickly as possible. My concern is that the CPS might damage the parts I put in? The voltage at the "filtered/clean" ground are concerning me, would be pulling CPS but really tired, rough day at work, and supposed to get cold and snow tomorrow. May go out and plug CRT back in so my heat works. Probably lost my heat settings? Hopefully it will come on! I can set it in front of heater for awhile, if that doesn't make it work then maybe it is the CPS being affected by heat. Does the CPS have capacitors in it?

So, Kirk, any input on why I would get voltage on the blk/purple, and black /yellow when my diagram says they are clean/filtered ground from the CPS? what is a clean/filtered ground? I asked an ET at work, he said defiantly not the coffee at QT!

Thanks for the input, I have had the IPC in and out probably 10 plus times know, getting pretty slick at it! I believe the CPS is just to the right of the brake pedal? Was mostly trying to see if I could identify IPC wire colors looking up beside the steering column. Not gonna be easy on an old neck!

Pulled panels off under steering column and I can see some of the ICP wires know, I am afraid to try and remove the connectors from dash due to possibly breaking the brittle plastic. Getting dark out so I will see if I can get some readings at the IPC connectors tomorrow? Is there a secret to slipping the IPC connectors free?