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djwlz

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About djwlz

  • Birthday 04/22/1940

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  1. Has anyone ever removed the headlight switch from the inside of a 1947 Lincoln Continental? It appears the entire chrome front on the dash has to be removed. I have removed the radio so I can sort of see the switch. It is very difficult to test the switch, but it appears almost 7 volts are coming into it, and 4.75 to 5 are going out. Does anyone have experience with one of these cars in regard to removal of the headlight switch? Thank you for reading this. Don
  2. I am trying to find out if a '60 Olds Dynamic 88 could be ordered with synchromesh, the 260 HP engine option, power steering, and posi-traction? I have the dealership notebook, but it doesn't give much detail into the W-2 option, other than a 9.75:1 compression ratio. Also, one point in compression ratio is not going raise that engines gross HP from 240 to 260. Was there also a higher lift cam with it? It also appears it uses the same two-barrel "econo-way" carburetor. Thank you for reading this. DJW
  3. To all of you '60 Olds experts out there.....Could you get a sceni-coupe with the 260 horsepower engine, power steering and synchromesh. Also, I am not sure how they got 260 HP from 240 HP, when the only thing that was changed was one point in the compression ratio? Unless it has a different cam, and 4 barrel carburetor. Thx DJW
  4. Does anyone know the actual production breakdown for the 1939 Hayes coupes? I am getting conflicting information. Thank you DJW
  5. I posted the pictures, so does anyone have any idea?
  6. I would like to know the break down on these 1939 Hayes Coupes. One source says 1000 bodies were delivered, another says 1016 were delivered. DeSoto--264, Dodge--363, Royal Windsor--239, New Yorker--99, Saratoga --35, and no Imperials. So does anyone really know? DJW
  7. Does anyone know how to adjust the accelerator linkage on a V-12 Pierce-Arrow? I don't think the linkage is opening up the carbs all of the way. Thx Don
  8. I found the price for the Le Mans engine in a Motor Trend from April, 1954, on page 22. $193!!!! I don't know how they sold these cars. An Ambassador, 2 door hdtp, Custom, sold for more than a 2 door hdtp Olds Super 88? The $193 on the Nash got you ten more horsepower, two carburetors, 8 to 1 compression ration (I think) and an aluminum head, that tended to crack. Not sure what the problem was--the gasket, poor metallurgy, etc. Would be interested in having Nash experts respond. Thx
  9. Does anyone know what the Le Mans engine option cost new on a 1954 Nash Ambassador Custom? I realize the standard engine was 130 HP and the Le Mans engine was 150 gross HP. Thx
  10. I have another question in regard to spark plugs. It currently has Champion RH10C in it. They were black with carbon, but now they are a dark brown. Don't know if I should change them or not. I have a 1953 Motors, and it lists the type of plug as CH-H10, and I have no idea what the difference might be. If I go to a hotter plug, what is the recommendation. Thx
  11. Jon, Thank you for your response. Today I took the car to a small local car show and then came home and tried to check the the spark plug wires while the car was running. My first problem is I don't have a real pair of spark plug wire pliers, and I kept zapping myself. I then tried starting the car and just checking three of them, after I loosened them , but then the car was very difficult to restart. I finally gave up because I was running the starter so much, because it would not restart easily. I did find the one of the spark plug wires on the drivers side, was up against the oil bath air cleaner---would that be a problem? Anyway, I also added a quart of oil because it indicated it need it. I backed it out into the street, and suddenly it kept trying to quit, and smoke started coming out from under the hood (scary). I think it was oil blowing out from somewhere, but couldn't figure out what happened. The car then proceeded to go up a hill without a miss. Are those float type of oil indicators accurate, or can they become logged like a fuel float in a gas tank can? Thank you Jim
  12. On a 1947 Lincoln V-12 and a miss, and a flat spot at higher rpm, I am beginning to wonder if it isn't the distributor, which is of course a nightmare on these cars. A mechanic told me that timing checks now have to be done on older cars by driving them. This is because of the burn rate of the ethanol (10%) in the fuel. It said often times the timing has to be set more advanced than the original factory settings. Does anyone have any experience on this? Can the timing be changed without taking off the distributor, and taking it someone who has the special machine? Thank you Don
  13. I have a 1947 Lincoln Continental which has weak turn signals. I have been advised to replace the flasher unit. My question is why are there three prongs on one end of the flasher. The car only has two wires going to the current flasher. Is this a ground? Or does it need that? The prongs are labeled "L" "P" "X". What do these initials stand for? Thank you Don
  14. I have a 1947 Lincoln Continental, and it has always had dim headlights. It was rewired many years ago, with period correct type of wiring. One mechanical minded person suggested I change out the headlight switch, which is not easy on these cars; in fact it appears the radio has to come out to do this. Does anyone have experience with the electrical system on these cars? Thank you for reading this. Don
  15. Tom, Thank you again for all of the advice. I just got back from somewhat of a speed run trying to "blow the carbon out" for about ten freeway miles. It helped, but it didn't go away completely (rolling idle.) I pulled a plug, once the car was back in the garage, and it was still black from carbon. Is there a point where a plug cleaner is needed? Or should I just replace the plugs? On another topic, it has always had a low speed buck when the foot is off of the accelerator, either going down hill or coasting on the level in gear. Very jerky, and I am sure the cars did not do this when they were new. Of course this goes away when the clutch gets pushed in because the engine is being separated from the drivetrain. Any ideas? Again thank you very much for all of your assistance. Don
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