DavidNA

George, Thanks for the heads up on the T-82 transmission, I will start a new search Regards David

I'm continuing to work my way through my 1938 46S coupe, latest pics attached. It now runs, stays cool, has great oil pressure, and now has a constant source of clean gas, after new rad, stripping down the carb, fuel system, pump, taking the tank out, opening it up, grit blasting, brazing back up, and then resealing. Rebuilt the speedo, finished the under dash wiring, found a trico wiper motor, linkages and gear drive, so nearly there, but I was being too optimistic. It doesn't stop, well it hasn't been used for over 30 years. So off with the drums, they are out for skimming tomorrow, new shoes, and new cylinders, they are seized with the pistons corroding into the cylinders. When I took them off, they are numbered Delco 5301080 1 3/32 and one is marked R14 the other R17. They should be 1 1/4", and the parts book gives 5301078 & 5301079 as the original part number for each side. So what do I have, and does anyone know what they can be from. I also need some new cylinders, looking around there seem to be a choice, and after trying to find what mine are from I found the attached AC Delco brake cylinder for a 1960's Lincoln Continental for around $12.50. Comparative pics below. If I can identify a later cylinder that will fit, it would be easier for me to find in Europe, and I want to have the car ready for Christmas :-) Pics attached - advice welcome Thanks David

Jack Forgot to ask, would you have a glove box lock assembly and the cream bakelite escutcheon Thx David

Hi Jeff, I need two wheel trims in good condition, I have two which are dented, and also two hubcaps better than two of mine which are scratched and dull Big plus + I urgently need two wheel rims for a 1937 46 Coupe which is going on a rally in South America and we have problems with spare wheels Regards David

Hi Jack, We urgently need two wheel rims in good condition to finish a 37 Coupe for a rally in South America Would you have any wheel rims Thx David

Hi Jeff, Are the trims in good shape, ? and would by chance have any wheel rims Thanks David

Hi Jeff, Do you have any wheel rims for sale, hubcaps, or rim covers Thanks David

Hi, How much are you asking for the 248 compound carb manifolds, do you have both the inlet and exhaust manifolds, or just the carb manifolds Thanks David

Hi, Thanks for the kind offer of a 1937 radio, I'm afraid it won't fit, the dash mounting and facia panel is quite different. For the moment I have a 1938 facia control box, which cosmetically is fine, but I do not have the rest of the radio that sits behind it. Kind regards David

Hi Could anyone kindly sell us a very good condition spare wheel for a 1937 Buick 46 coupe, we urgently need a second spare to finish the car before it takes part in a long distance rally. We will pay for the packing & shipping of the wheel to Great Britain Thx David<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

I am trying to source a reference colour for Seven jay green, which is the complimentary wheel colour for my 1938 46S coupe in Raphael Green I have the 1938 DuPont Paint cards, but the wheel colours aren't shown, can anyone point me in the right direction, or even approximate the colour Thanks David

Hi Billy, Possibly but it seems to give them a problem to get an even match, but thanks for the thought

To complete a renovation, I am looking for the radio for a 1938 Buick, either working or not, must have complete facia box with good dial, controls,knobs etc. I would also buy just the front tuning box with the dial and knobs, as I have a parts set, without the front console that fits through the dash. I will pay shipping costs Thx David

Thx John, I really liked the colour, so keen to get it all right.

I am just in the middle of recommissoning a 1938 46S coupe which has been off the road for 10+ years, and is 90% restored After working on the cooling system, prior to firing up, I am now going through the fuel system as the fuel on test was dark brown - not a good sign. I have problems with the tank, as the remaining petrol in the tank has attacked the sealant, which is floating around in large and not so large pieces, along with huge amounts of rust, in addition the filler neck joint has cracked. So steam clean and braze the neck, and strip and reseal the tank, however I may need to take the tank out again to refix the sealant, if the first treatment doesn't work. I will probably use POR 5 products to clean and seal. Prior to that , any recommendations for stripping or dissolving the old sealer - pics attached Also, as the tank needed juggling to take out, it would seem an easier job if the filler neck could be cut and then be joined to the tank with an intermediate hose, which when removed would allow the tank to be dropped more easily. Has anyone experienced this before, and would this be a worthwhile modification Thx David