Torsion Level Suspension

[Bill Kennedy]

My Torsion Level Suspension compensator circuit works intermittently. When driving the car seems OK, but often the rear end gets stuck in the raised position.

As a first step in correcting the problem I am going to replace the compensator switch with a solid state unit.

Now a simple question?where in the car is the compensator switch? I cannot figure it out from the Service Manual and the car is in storage about 10 miles away so going out to look is at it is not easy!!!

[WCraigH]

The compensator switch is under the car next to the compensator gear box and motor. It's #8 in this diagram from my website:

Torsion-Level Ride diagram

It's easy to R&R once you have the car jacked up for access.

I'd agree that the switch is the first thing to change out if operation is intermittent.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I had the same problem, on '56 Clipper, and it was an intermittent Solenoid Relay, which is mounted under left front fender, on '56. (The internal contacts get burnt causing them to be intermittent) The relays are under car, on '55. The Up relay degrades faster than the Down relay, since the motor is drawing more current when lifting the car.

See this Thread, it tells how to test relays:

http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/showflat....rev=#Post253929

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Any High current Relay can be used to replace a T-L relay, (like a starter solenoid), as long as one side of the relays coil is or can be connected to the positive-in terminal (red wire with fuse). On the original relays that is done internally, but it could be jumpered externally if the relay, you have, has both coil terminals external.

[Mr.Pushbutton]

Rick is absolutely correct--you can use an inexpensive Ford type starting relay. I used a Standard ignition brand starting relay (2 of them) that has the two pull-in coil leads on independent studs (the smaller #8 screw type connection studs on the front) This allows for any wiring configuration. I just fabricated a small set of jumpers from the positive terminal side (of the heavy "incoming power" terminals)to one of the discrete terminals. I attached the "grounding"lead from the compensator box to the other discrete terminal.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

It may be a good idea to rotate the relays after a while (Up to Down, Down to Up), so they will degrade at an equal rate, Like rotating Tires. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[L.Fallon]

Do any of you guys run your cars with the T/L switched off ? if there was nothing in the trunk or passengers for instance.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I usually use my manual switch to set the ride height where I want it and then Turn it Off. I feel that there is No need to use battery power and ware out components when it's not needed. I usually drive it with rear end lowered, anyway. It looks more '50s that way to me. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I put lowering blocks on all my cars during the '50s and '60s <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I only go up with it when I need to get under car or take off rear wheel.

[Mr.Pushbutton]

L. Fallon, yes, you can shut the system off if you wish. It really won't affect much, although I have heard mine activate to compensate for fuel usage (the 374 is a thirsty beast!)If the car is level and the load inside the car is static, it will not affect the handling at all. I would recommend ocassionally turning it back on to allow the system to work, if it feels the need.