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53BuickSuperConv

53BuickSuperConv

Hi, have ‘53 Buick Super 56C, and “all my life” (50 years of it) it’s sat up at our farm, and dad had battery disconnects on all the batteries….  Preparing for the auction, (I kept that one!) was going to move the car, and had completely dead (new) battery for first time ever.  Got a new disconnect switch, and same thing happened.  BUT, I had been monkeying with the power windows, and had the ignition switch “ON”, and forgotten it there.    

 

So I think the disconnect not completely “disconnecting” all the time, and drained with the switch on.  But what is there to DRAIN on a ‘53?    I stuck my Fluke probes in series and get about 3.6Amps of draw as soon as I turn the switch ON.    The ONLY thing that should be on would be the ammeter, gas, temp and oil pressure gauges.   The instrument cluster backlight bulbs have been burned out forever, so that’s not even part of the draw.

 

Is it possible the dash cluster system really draws that much current?  Seems more likely something is nearly shorting out, but don’t know how I’d begin to find it.

 

One thing that bothers me is the Heater fan switch is simply rotational, and there is no “click” for OFF.  It simply turns freely from off to on, just a rheostat?   SHOULD there be a distinct “OFF”, possible that is where the current is going?  I go from the base 3.6A to about 5A when I turn the heater fan ‘on’ and it is at high speed…..

 

Thanks!

Barry

53BuickSuperConv

53BuickSuperConv

Hi, have ‘53 Buick Super 56C, and “all my life” (50 years of it) it’s sat up at our farm, and dad had battery disconnects on all the batteries….  Preparing for the auction, (I kept that one!) was going to move the car, and had completely dead (new) battery for first time ever.  Got a new disconnect switch, and same thing happened.  BUT, I had been monkeying with the power windows, and had the ignition switch “ON”, and forgotten it there.    

 

So I think the disconnect not completely “disconnecting” all the time, and drained with the switch on.  But what is there to DRAIN on a ‘53?    I stuck my Fluke probes in series and get about 3.6Amps of draw as soon as I turn the switch ON.    The ONLY thing that should be on would be the ammeter, gas, temp and oil pressure gauges.

 

Is it possible the dash cluster system really draws that much current?  Seems more likely something is nearly shorting out, but don’t know how I’d begin to find it.

 

One thing that bothers me is the Heater fan switch is simply rotational, and there is no “click” for OFF.  It simply turns freely from off to on, just a rheostat?   SHOULD there be a distinct “OFF”, possible that is where the current is going?  I go from the base 3.6A to about 5A when I turn the heater fan ‘on’ and it is at high speed…..

 

Thanks!

Barry

53BuickSuperConv

53BuickSuperConv

Hi, have ‘53 Buick Super 56C, and “all my life” (50 years of it) it’s sat up at our farm, and dad had battery disconnects on all the batteries….  Preparing for the auction, (I kept that one!) was going to move the car, and had completely dead (new) battery for first time ever.  Got a new disconnect switch, and same thing happened.  BUT, I had been monkeying with the power windows, and had the ignition switch “ON”, and forgotten it there.    

 

So I think the disconnect not completely “disconnecting” all the time, and drained with the switch on.  But what is there to DRAIN on a ‘53?    I stuck my Fluke probes in series and get about 3.6Amps of draw as soon as I turn the switch ON.    The ONLY thing that should be on would be the clock, and THAT would be drawing current even with switch OFF (and then I read 0 amps).  

 

Is it possible the ignition system really draws that much current?  Seems more likely something is nearly shorting out, but don’t know how I’d begin to find it.

 

One thing that bothers me is the Heater fan switch is simply rotational, and there is no “click” for OFF.  It simply turns freely from off to on, just a rheostat?   SHOULD there be a distinct “OFF”, possible that is where the current is going?  I go from the base 3.6A to about 5A when I turn the heater fan ‘on’ and it is at high speed…..

 

Thanks!

Barry

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