1970 Skylark Question(s) and price.

[Guest]

Kinda new to the board, but have been watching for a while. I am purchacing a 1970 Skylark 350-2 barrel / TH350. I am taking it for $1000. It has NO RUST! Interior needs replacing, dash is ok, trunk is immaculate, rear bumper needs to be rechromed where the trunk lid meets the bumper, it has ac but does not work. Engine sounds strong, transmission just put in it. Rally wheels need to be cleaned and black painted back on, center caps are perfect red white and blue! Exterior needs repainting, vinyl top needs replacing (no rust under the top), One 4inch dent in the right front quarter - the rest of the body is straight. Needs chrome door trim and over wheels. The only real thing wrong with this car is cosmetics. I'd like to put a 4 barrel and a GS hood on it, along with fixing the above. But I have a couple of questions:<P>Am I paying too much? <P>1) How much horsepower for this engine?<P>2) The car now has single exhaust. If I add dual exhaust will it increase HP? Did cars of this year/model come factory with duals?<P>3) I'd like to go with a 4 barrel, what is the factory 4 barrel that came on this model, and what would be the new HP with this upgrade?<P>4) Did factory GS 350's of 1970 have a functional hood or was it just for looks? (Do i need to get the aircleaner with the scoops or no?)<P>5) The rear end is too low to the ground for my tastes, what can i do to raise it up just above level and still remain somewhat factory (I don't want to put air shocks)?<BR> <BR>Any advice to a true Skylark enthusiast would be greately appreciated. I used to have a suncoupe back in '84. Have always wanted another Skylark. If anyone knows someone in NC/SC area that wouldn't mind lending a hand / know-how to a quick and eager learner, please point me in that direction. I am a hands on kind of person, but have never done anything like this before.<P>Thanks,<BR>Francisco

[Guest]

Hi Fransisco, What is your e-mail ? Thanks,Gino

[Guest]

I also own a 1970 Skylark 350 (the 1970 model year replacement for the Special DeLuxe Hardtop) that I purchased last Labor Day with 60K miles. I've driven it over 6,000 miles now and spent about $1000.00 on various items. It, too, has a 350-2 and is all original except paint (amateur job sprayed in the wrong color) and dual exhaust.<P>I don't think you're paying too much at all. I paid $3000.00 for my car and have at least twice that to spend before it gets where I want it to be. I figured that for a one family owned, rust-free original car it was worth spending $3K. So far, so good...<P>-----------------------------------------<P>>1) How much horsepower for this engine?<P>260 bhp @ 4600 rpm, torque is rated at<BR>360 lbs.-ft. @ 2600<P>>2) The car now has single exhaust. If I add dual exhaust will it increase HP? Did cars of this year/model come factory with duals?<P>It will help horsepower, though it might actually hurt low rpm torque a little bit if you go too big on the pipes. An "H" or "X" crossover pipe really helps maintain torque and smooths the exhaust note too. Back in the "old days" one of the first things we did was add headers and a good exhaust system.<P>The 1970 dealer brochure indicates that Skylarks could be ordered with the hi-po 350, and that motor came with a dual exhaust when powering a GS car. There is no specific mention, however, of a dual exhaust option for the Skylark. Also, I have never run across a 1970 Skylark equipped with the 315 bhp motor.<P>3) I'd like to go with a 4 barrel, what is the factory 4 barrel that came on this model, and what would be the new HP with this upgrade?<P>Factory 4-bbl was a Rochester Quadrajet. The standard 4-bbl. motor (9.0:1 compression) is rated at 285 bhp @ 4600 rpm, and 375 lbs.-ft. of torque @ 3000 rpm. The hi-po 350 (10.25:1 compression) was rated at 315 bhp @ 4800 rpm, and 410 lbs.-ft. of torque @ 3200 rpm.<P>4) Did factory GS 350's of 1970 have a functional hood or was it just for looks? (Do i need to get the aircleaner with the scoops or no?)<P>The hood was fully functional. You'll need the funny looking aircleaner with the foam doo-dads that mate up with the indentations in the hood.<P>5) The rear end is too low to the ground for my tastes, what can i do to raise it up just above level and still remain somewhat factory (I don't want to put air shocks)?<P>You can replace the coil springs with new ones from Year One or Just Suspension or Cars or ???. Funny... I think my car sits too high in back... maybe we should trade?<P>Seriously... good luck with your "new" car and feel free to contact me off-list with any questions you might have. So far my "new" Skylark rates right up there with the favorite cars I've ever owned, second only to my '64 Wildcat. And I've only had it for nine months!<P>Matthew

[Guest Shaffer]

My grandfather recently sold a 1-owner, 1972 Buick Skylark Custom 2-door hardtop, with 82K actual miles. It had almost mint original interior, factory 8-track, cold a/c, power brakes, steering, even the door panels looked like new, showing the care the car had. It had minor rust around rear window, small rust spot 1 fender well, 1 small spot just starting on 1/4s, and a little on each fender and 1 rust hole in the driver floor, where the windshield leaked for a while. Frame and trunk was 100% rust free. Trunk looked like new. The car had been very well maintained by the lady. She bought the car new here in Tennessee, but moved to Illinois for 2 years, and she said thats what caused what little rust was on it. It had brand new Michelin tires. He bought it from the original elderly lady owner, for $700, but decided to sell it, as he did not have room for it. He sold it to someone in Missouri for $1,700, but ended up taking $1,500, because they was complaining about the little rust that was there and said it was worse than they thought. Actually they had bought another car on the way down and just wanted a refund, but they did not get. They drove the car back to Missouri with zero problems. The car was well worth $2,500 I think. They wanted a 100% rust free 72 Skylark for $1,700, which is pretty hard to come by. Most you find with no rust is usually bondo or puttied. I think they got a steal for $1,500. I have a 72 Electra with zero rust, with the exception of surface rust on the hood and a small bubble of rust around the rear window. The Electras tend to be less rust prone than the Skylark. In conclusion, despite the work the one you want to buy needs, with the rust free body, it should be well worth $1,000.

[Guest]

Well folks, I am now a proud owner of a brand new bouncing baby turd yellow skylark!!! And thank you all for your replies. Much appreciated! My email genoinla is ftaizcorbe@carolina.rr.com. Matthew thanks for your informative reply, You can bet I will have more questions in the very near future. But I do need your contact info please just shoot me an email. Shaffer, I believe I have inquired about a car or 2 you have had on here as well. <P>I found out today that the car has been in a garage sitting for 10 years. Last time it was inspected was 7/91! So, beginning monday, I am taking Mabelline (why cant you be true) to my buddy for a full physical. I'll keep you all posted with my rantings of how poor this car is going to make me! ha<P>I did order a year one catalog yesterday - any other parts catalogs I should think about getting - or is year one the one stop shop for buicks? Your thoughts on quality?<P>Thanks again,<BR>Francisco

[Guest]

Hey Onearmdisco,,,, do you want to buy a row boat??

[Guest 455stage1]

Francisco <BR>Congratulations on your new <I><B>Baby</B></I>. Another good Buick parts supplier is <A HREF="http://buick-parts.com" TARGET=_blank>CARS INC</A>. Check the <I>Buick Links</I> page on my website (in my signature). Although there are other good companies out there (not listed), this webpage can give you a good starting point.<P>You'll come to find that there are some parts no one sells out of a catalogue and you'll eventually have to post a 'Parts Wanted' request. Don't worry, just be patient <P>Best of luck!