1933 buick 90 Transmission Check

[Guest outlaw car man]

Since I've been moving forward fairly fast now on the 1933 90, I was messing with the transmission , shifting it in gears just to get the feel. There is no interior in the car right now, I was sitting pretty much on the floor-

Everything seemed normal but a couple times when shifting to the left and up to reverse, the gear shift went way far to the left, way far.

Almost seemed as if it was popping out of a fork or something. No noise, just this. The drive train has been rebuilt. I did notice a small hole where a retainer screw or something used to be. Looked more like a retainer for the chrome round cover.

Shop manual is pretty vague, but would it be advisable to remove the shifter for inspection ? As I remember on my Ford, there was a spring underneath the nut that held the shifter in place. This has two metal inserts or something to hold it in.

Advice before I end up with a spring through my head...

Thanks,

Sandy

[Bob Engle]

It's fairly easy to remove the top cover on the transmission. You can then look at the shifting forks and the shafts they slide on. You can see the extension of the shift lever and how it matches up with the fhifting forks. There are about 8 capscrews that hold the top plate on the transmission. Remove them and lift straight up and you can inspect the gears.

It is not easy to remove the shift lever. You must turn the top plate assembly upside down. You need a way to compress the coil spring and than slide the retaining pin out. then releasing the spring compression and the lever can be removed.

I took a piece of schedule 80 plastic pipe that was the diameter of the coil spring ( about 1 1/4 inches I think). I cut notches to clear the pin. I place the top plate assembly in an arbor press and applied pressure on the plastic pipe until the pin could be moved. Using a small "L" shaped allen wrench I could slide the pin to one side and grab it with a set of forceps to remove it from the shift lever. no room for fingers.

Back to your problem, The shift fork slide rail have detents to keep them properly located. I suspect that one of the detents is stuck allowing you to miss the appropiate shift fork giving that overtravel feeling. The detents are a ball bearing and spring that fit into a notch in the slide rails. The detents are installed from the outside of the top plate. Remove the large hex head plug, one on either side of the top plate, and the spring and ball bearing can be removed.

I hope this helps.

Bob

[Guest outlaw car man]

OK, may attempt this next week. I think I see what your are talking about.

Best to get after this now, when everything is basically open.

I'm not a newbie at this stuff, just getting older and forgetful, best to ask.

My wife agrees.

Thanks-

Sandy

[Bob Engle]

I know about that getting older! The alternative is no good.

You will need to make a new gasket for the trans top plate. No big deal. Be careful at the motor end of the plate there are two cork gaskets that seal the slider shafts. They are a pain to make if they get damaged.

I'll be around all weekend if you need any further info.

Bob

[Guest outlaw car man]

Bob, thanks-

I couldn't help it and decided to get into the project-

Problem now: The shift lever doesn't now want to go anywhere. It will kinda pop up and rotate around a bit ( a lot ) , then I can move it back into position and it pops/springs back in but will not go into gear. I don't know why it won't go into gear now, maybe from me monkeying around with it. Clutch has good pressure. Prior to this it seemed to shift nicely except when it would pop " up" and move around then pop back in. It's like the shift lever is popping up and out of the shifter shaft, same as you call slide rail, correct ???

It seems to be stuck in gear maybe. HJMMMM?

I thought I'd check back here before removing the transmission cover. I can only work on it during the week cause it's locked up at a shop on the weekends.

I might take a digital of the cover off and can use that as a visual reference if needed. Never looked in a 33 tranny.

Nothing like working on a 1933 Buick transmission over the internet- Couldn't do that in the day.

Thanks,

be in touch,

Sandy

[Guest outlaw car man]

Is there a problem removing the transmission case cover if the car is in ( stuck?) gear.

Before I get into it tomorrow, thought I'd ask. Usually I don't and break something. I can see the control ( shift) lever in the sectional in the shop manual. I just feel the little end piece ( ball) isn't staying in place. I hope you are correct on the detents sticking. Car has been sitting for over 20 years , up on blocks .

Thanks

SJ.

It's fairly easy to remove the top cover on the transmission. You can then look at the shifting forks and the shafts they slide on. You can see the extension of the shift lever and how it matches up with the fhifting forks. There are about 8 capscrews that hold the top plate on the transmission. Remove them and lift straight up and you can inspect the gears.

[Bob Engle]

Sandy:

It's entirely possible that the retailing pin for the spring or the control lever stop have broken allowing the lever to move upward. The spring is pretty stout and if it is moving up it's possible the pin is not keeping the spring preloaded.

there are 2 shafts (sliders) one for 1st and reverse and the other for 2nd and 3rd. The end of the shift lever fits into a piece on the end of shafts. If you are in gear, and can't shift into neutral, lever may have climbed up over this piece. There is a detent mechanism that prevents the two shafts from being out of neutral and in 2 gears at the same time. If, as

I suspect you have lost the spring preload, you would have to lift up on the lever and try to find the right slot to move it into. Removing the top cover will answer this question. The shafts move very freely when operating correctly. The 50 series have the shift lever in the center of the trans top plate. The 60,80,and 90 have the lever in the front housing. when removing the trans top plate you will need to tip it down at the front to clear the shifte and then lift it out. Don't apply any force, the most delicate pieces are the forks that fit over the synchronizer and slider.

have fun exploring.

Bob

[Guest outlaw car man]

Bob-

Will contact you tomorrow via phone, before going to the shop-

If the pin is missing, means it's in the bottom of the case- This will be fun !!!

Thanks

Sandy