Yellow ABS Light

[Guest]

Alright, is it really my turn???<P>A few days ago, while driving my 88, my yellow ABS light came on. I immediatley turned around & drove home. After turning off the car & re-starting it, the light was gone. It hasn't come back since.<P>It was really rainy out at the time. I was driving in the curb lane, where most of the water was pooling. Could this have caused the light to come on? Could something have gotten wet? Should I be driving the car now?<P>The brakes didn't work any different with the light on, but I was still terrified.<p>[ 05-11-2002: Message edited by: Canadian Girl ]

[BP]

You could check the ALDL connection under the dash near the E-Brake and see if any ABS codes LOCKED IN. Or have your mechanic check the codes. <BR>If a code "SET" that will give you some insight why the light LIT. <P>If no codes are SET then problem I suspect is PRESSURE related ... maybe Accumulator, Pressure Sensor. Although Reservoir Level or Low Voltage to ECBM may also cause the light.<P>I been wrestling with my AMBER Light for a couple months now. (My light goes out occassionally but is on for the most part)<P>Good Luck!

[Guest]

I was a gm mech for 20 years it sounds as if the accumulator is at fault and they do act up some days worse than others it takes the place of the booster in a way and should be tested by a compentent mech soundman159@aol.com

[Guest wally888]

Year? Having a Yellow light on is not normally a serious condition. Normally means you have no Antilock function but brakes are O.K. Everyone driving a Reatta should know that and several other facts mentioned at reatta.net<BR>Possibly you had an excessive amount of water interfering w/ a wheel sensor for a period long enough for the light to come on and a code to be set. Is this possible?<BR> I am always reluctant to suggest testing the Antilock Function (simulating an Emergency Stop) but done carefully in a suitable location, it reveals a lot.<BR> The Pressure Sensor has 3 different electrical circuits for sending messages. Several sent: (at several different pressures) pressure O.K. signal to BCM (Pressure OK , turn off light.<BR> Press. is low turn on Y. light<BR> Press. is low, turn on Red light.<BR> Press. low , turn on Pump<BR> Enough Press. , turn off Pump and...<BR> Give the car the Brake Tests, report<p>[ 05-10-2002: Message edited by: wally888 ]

[Guest EDBS0]

Testing the antilock is easier and safer if you can do it at low speeds on wet roads or on a gravel road. On hard breaking you should get the expected shhhuuuuddderrrr as the system modulates the wheel revolution. If you have no antilock one or more wheels will simply lockup. You do not want to test on bare roads at speed because you could flatspot a tire or dart suddenly to the left or right. Previous posts are probably correct in that you have normal breaking capacity just likely no antilock.<P>Drive safely, Robert

[Guest trofeo73]

You could try taking the brake test, when mine acted up, I thought it was just a fluke, but having taken the brake test, it more or less showed that I needed a new accumulator, Before the accumulator came in the mail, I eventually lost all abs, but still had conventional brakes. (had not lost hydrolic assist yet!)