hemichrysler
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Posts posted by hemichrysler
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I thought that the SpitFire straight 6 and 8 Flathead engines had hardened valve seats from the factory. I reasoned this because lead doping didn't really get going until the 1950s. Lead was added to stop pinging/pinking (detonation), but as a side effect it lubricated the top end so well that hardened valve seats were no longer required. It means that older cars, such as my 1948 Daimler, have hardened valve seats.
So, I did not think that lead was being added to gasoline as early as 1939. Have I been wrong all this time, and the Chrysler Eights have soft valve seats ?
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Hello. I have seen 1920s Chrysler hubcaps in both brass and stainless steel, but which material were the ORIGINALS made from ?
Thank you
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I just purchased a 76 98 Regency 4 dr htp, 58,000 miles, that was recently offered upon ebay. I'd been looking for one for a while. I believe the 76 was the last of the jumbo Oldsmobiles. It's my second Olds. My first was a 41 76 2 dr sedanette. I don't know much about Oldsmobiles but I like the shape and the represented condition. Share some images...
RS
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Thank you for the part numbers, and thanks for checking availability from that source!
RS
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My 71 New Yorker is missing some trim around the headlamps. My guess is that this trim is frequently AWOL and that I may have a difficult time in locating it.
This bright metal trim is C-section (like a C-section frame) in format, and roughly shaped like a very large pair of square brackets ...
([oo=====oo])
The curved brackets are meant to illustrate the body contours.
The square brackets are meant to illustrate the missing trim.
Can anyone sell to me? Any recommendations?
Thank you
RS
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My 1973 New Yorker Brougham has an intricate, beautiful, leaf/vine pattern along the side ornamentation. I believe this is the swage line, but not certain on that teminology.
Is this leaf pattern rare or unusual, or was it standard upon Broughams?
Have you seen it before on any other years?
Any information much appreciated!
I also have a 1975 Lincoln Continental Town Car with a similar effect upon the swage line, but no where near as detailed or intricate as the Chrysler. I believe that this leaf pattern is peculiar to the mid-70s. It doesn't seem to appear in either the early or the late 70s.
RS
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Thank you for that recommendation! I used it to find a division of that outfit near enough to arrange personal delivery. I am using the operation in Elkhart, IN.
RS
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Yes, she's the real deal. One of 21 EFI cars built, and one of 9 known survivors. Thank you for the compliment.
No plans to convert back to EFI. A complete system would be likely impossible to find. The few people that have them don't want to sell, and the price would likely be huge. They were unreliable in 1958 and would be no better now without replacing whatever part of the system was weak (I think it was the solenoids, but am not certain).
I sent an e-mail to Kruse Auctions to ask how much they think the car may fetch at the Fall auction.
Whatever, I have to fix the gasoline tank first. Now at least I'm confident it's the right tank for the car.
RS
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If anyone's interested, I worked out what the inspection plate in the trunk is for. The car was once fuel injected, and the in-tank pump would have been accessed through this plate.
RS
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Hello. My gasoline tank was damaged when my 300D was recently shipped to USA.
First question... does anyone make new tanks?
Second question... can you recommend any restorer? I found this firm via Google :
Third question... do I have the wrong tank anyway?
The tank fits the car perfectly. The straps align fine. The filler neck screws in perfectly. The reason that I wonder if I have the wrong tank is that there is a large circular inspection plate in the trunk floor. One would think this is to access the sender unit. When the plate is removed, however, it reveals only the roof of the tank. The sender unit is in fact at the front of the tank.
Could I have a tank from some other late 50s Chrysler product? What say you? Any 300 owners available to comment?
Tank removed today, but I am reluctant to restore this tank if it is technically incorrect.
Thank you
RS
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Hello sir.
What's your e-mail address?
RS
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Truck in indoor storage Nevada, Iowa.
Extremely nice condition.
77,000 miles on 351 V8. Automatic.
Two-tone green. Many extras such as the over-cab visor and faery lights, bed cover.
E-mail me if interested to see images. I don't know what to ask for price yet.
e-mail : hemichrysler @ yahoo . co . uk (without the spaces)
RS
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I have made 2 types of obsolete automobile parts so far.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Project 1 : Cast Aluminium Valve Covers for the 1946-53 Daimler straight 8</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold">Project 2 : mild steel Engine Side Plates for 1920s Chryslers</span>
I would like to take this fledgling business further and make other obsolete automobile parts.
Currently, I only have the technology to make METAL parts. I can't make tail lenses and other plastic items.
As a MoPar man, I am particularly interested in Chryslers, but am happy to make batches of parts for any marque.
I will, of course, always require an original item from which to make copies. The originals do not usually have to be perfect. For example, the original valve cover had cracks and the original side plates had rust holes in them!
I am interested in all ideas, whether or not you are a parts seller. If you are a seller then I am happy to give you exclusivity on a product that you suggested.
Thank you for any suggestions!
RS
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Time to change the engine oil.
What grade of oil do folks recommend (now, not in 1958) for the 392 Hemi? Engine has relatively few (I am guessing 3 or 4,000) miles since rebuild.
Also, Semi-synthetic or Fully-synthetic?
The engine is very infrequently started. Does anyone recommend either Slick-50 additive, or Castrol Magnatec oil (claims to adhere to metal surfaces)?
Thank you.
RS
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Exchanged for a 77 Ford F250. Olds images removed from CarDomain.
RS
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GM used 2 different sizes of very long battery, both, I believe 6 volts.
I forget the 2 widths now, but something like a 4 inch, and a 4 1/4, or 4 1/2 inch.
I have one of these types in my 1941 Oldsmobile 76 2 door sedanette (FOR SALE!).
The battery clamp shows some deterioration due to acid contamination. I refer to the top-clamp, an angle-iron like piece of steel that bounds the top of the battery.
I don't know why, but it seems to me that 6 volt cars are more prone to battery 'gunging' - whatever the chemical reaction is - than 12v cars.
If I made some reproduction clamps, is anyone interested? I'm trying to assess interest.
(I'm always trying to find new repro items to make.)
Thank you
RS
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Asking $4,995 and hoping for a quick sale.
For images, please see the Car Domain page
One thing not mentioned on the Car Domain page is that the paint has some swirls,
probably from poor polishing technique of new paint - but I'm not a paint guy.
The swirls may come out with the right technique.
The engine and transmission of this car are great.
The previous owner told me...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
This car has been off the frame,detailed,cleaned,fluffed and puffed, i have all the pics from when it came across the street to me in boxes and bags[it a long story] ..but now is a great car now with custom dual exhaust, new seats and pakage tray, power steering,power brakes,power windows, tilt-wheel,power trunklock,power seat,deep blue pearl tri-coat paint, all chrome and stainless polished and buffed, on and on...it started with a 76,000 mile orgignal, rust free body and frame,and came together from there, it has a 425-cu 4 barrel,400 turbo trans, single track rear maybe 12 bolt, the engine,trans, and compartment were all detailed to better than factory, new brake lines, new trans lines, new shocks,front and rear glass r+r'd rebuilt carb, valve seals, gaskets, hoses,etc,etc...this thing looks great, runs very nice,smells like a new car!! no smoke,knock ,hammer, ping,rap, NOTHING, it's not perfect but 98% of the hard parts been done, some things it needs now can be done in you're shop or home in you're garage[ speedometer needle, front brakes,rear speaker,washer bottle]
</div></div>
The car is located in Nevada, Iowa. That's the town of Nevada, not the state.
RS
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Hello.
Does anyone know if there are any chemicals that will disolve FelPro YEL 5 contact adhesive?
I have been scraping with a rozor blade but it's tedious work, and I am afraid anyway because the valve cover is made from aluminium.
My other alternativer is a trip to the polishing shop to see whether they can polish the old sealant away.
Second question ...does anyone know whether YEL 5 is OK to use on a valve cover WITHOUT a gasket? This is an old engine for which valce cover gaskets are no longer available. One could be made from cork, but I would rather just use a sealant that will work without the gasket.
Thank you
RS
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Yes, I really hope that she will turn out to be an excellent car. Even the frame has been painted with POR-15. I won't see her for several months to come so all I have to go on are the images.
Thank you for your brake and bearing comments. Brakes are so important that I will certainly be evaluating them and replacing any worn parts. I didn't know about ceramic pads. Are they harder on the discs or much the same as the met-fibre type?
I'm a competant self-taught mechanic. I don't, however, do bodywork. Having said that, I try not to buy cars with rust in the first place.
Interestingly, given your comments, about a month ago I replaced the master cylinder and front flexible brake hoses upon another Oldsmobile - a 1941 96. I do all the fitting, and then invite my father over to help me bleed the fluid through and air out. I find that bleeding works better as a 2 man job. We don't have any special kit other than my mechanic's pit. I also repacked the front wheel bearings with grease. We seem to be thinking exactly the same!!! Yes, might we worth going a step further on the 65 98 and fitting New bearings.
Something that I have never done, and I think best done at a brake specialist, it to replace the existing brake fluid of a car with non-hydroscopic silicone fluid. I know that all of the old fluid has to be removed, and so I think the professional vacuum pump systems would be handy in this situation. Apparently the 2 fluids are actually compatible because they don't mix, but the heavier mineral based fluid will find its way to the lowest point in the system and continue to cause rust in the wheel cylinders - hence got to remove it all.
RS
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Hello. I didn't see anything about No For Sale, so I guess this is OK...
1973 NYB 4 dr htp
For details and <span style="font-style: italic">MANY</span> images, please click HERE.
Open to offers on the price. I have over $5K in the car, but realise I will not get all that back. If I can't do deal here then I will offer upon ebay.
I've bought a 65 Olds 98, and already have 2 other cars in storage. I can't justify storage upon 4 cars, so this one is for sale.
This NYB is in storage the town of Nevada, in Iowa.
RS
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Thank you so much for your reply. I am very pleased, and relieved, that the engine and air filter case colours are a good near match. The wrong interior doesn't bother me.
Concerning upgrades, the seller has recommended new front brakes, but I don't yet know whether he means pads, or pad and calipers, or discs too.
I don't intend to change much on the car, but I would like to swap in silicone brake fluid.
RS
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Please click HERE for description and many images.
I am open to offers. If cannot do a deal here then I will offer upon ebay.
I have over $5K in the car, but realise I won't get all that back.
The car is in the town of Nevada, in Iowa.
Rare car - don't see many now!
RS
1920s Chrysler hubcaps
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Thank you, keiser31. That's exactly what I needed to know. We are duplicating both the buck and the hubcap.
Stark