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35Dictator

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Posts posted by 35Dictator

  1. Hi all. We just installed an electric fuel pump, so far so good but I have a couple of questions.The pump is wired to the ignition but what will happen if the key is turned on but the motor isn't running? Will it continue to pump until it floods the motor or damages the needle seat. I think it pumps between 2-7 lbs.So far so good but I haven't let the pump run w/o the motor running for over approx. 30 seconds.The last time time I drove it was to pick up a gas filter at the local motorcycle shop and on the way home the motor revved up quite a bit like the throttle was stuck Could this be related to the pump or just sticky linkage,etc.?About the rebuilding the original pump reply we tried that and it would have worked, it did work for awhile. What happened was with the kit came a longer than stock pin for the lever that rides against the cam. We used it but shouldn't have because it made it impossible to get a wrench or socket on the two bolts so it leaked a little bit of oil from the gasket to motor connection.After seeing the pin was too long I took the pump back off and put in the original pin but in doing so this time I must have installed the pump with the lever on the wrong side of the cam resulting in it not pumping anymore and somewhat distorting the pump. The diaphram that came with the kit did work just fine, it stopped the gas leak through the weep hole and the car ran just fine except for the small oil leak.Anyone need a new slightly used diaphram for cheap,lol?Thanks all.

  2. Thanks for the heads up. I did bid on it but the more I looked at the picture the more I had to pull the tarp and take a look at the one one the car.It's a good thing I did because I turned out to be way different. Along with the water glass the bolt pattern was different.The one on ebay was diagonal and mine is straight across.There was only one pic. and it didn't show the bolt pattern, he emailed me. I wonder if my motor is truly a 35?Maybe my motor was from a 36?The guy that won it paid under thirty with shipping include.

  3. Hi all.I am having a tough time getting my transmission back in after taking it out to clean the clutch and clutch plate.We used an alignment tool with the correct splines to fit the clutch plate but the end that fitted into the flywheel was loose.We had two to choose from and used the bigger one but still was loose. Would this be enough slop to cause the problem?Just by guessing the tool was half inch and the flywheel hole 9/16 to 5/8th's.Would adding tape to the tool work to take up the slop?Another thing is the transmission shaft seems to bind into the throw-out bearing, is there any trick to just even getting the bearing on the shaft? We have the bell housing on so maybe that's the prob. and we just need to align. the shaft/clutch plate first and then put the bell housing on?Thanks a bunch as were getting a bit frustrated.

  4. Hello all....I got my 35 Dictator rolling again after having the aluminum head welded; a crack by the corner bolt hole, also had the head shaved and used a copper head gasket. The motor has noticeable more power. Also had to fix a stripped out thread.There is a small crack on the cylinder wall about half way between the soft plugs and the head.I think it will heal up with some sealer.I hear this is common with this motor.

  5. Hello, my 1935 Dictator has an aluminum head and a copper head gasket. Is this the correct one?Have heard that it should be a steel faced gasket on account of electrolysis. I would think the copper would be better and the head itself doesn't appear to be corroded.The gasket I know has been on the car forty years.Best to stay with copper? Thanks in advance.

  6. Hello again, does someone know where I can find two headlight bulbs for the 6 volt Studebaker?They have three slots that turn into three pins inside the headlight. The no. of the bulb is: S2330. The other broken bulb says: Tungsol no. 2330.Thanks again.

  7. After cleaning the fuel pump, and replacing the check-valves, it looks like the carb might be the problem.(the motor runs only when pouring fuel directly into the carb).The carb is a Stromberg, is this an easy carb to work on?, I wonder if just cleaning it will get it to work or will it need a kit and can I get one? Also would like to know what parts might be available at stores like NAPA, etc.? Parts like dist.cap, plug wires, etc.Thanks again. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

  8. Thanks for the info., The battery cables are hooked up positive ground now.The amp guage reads right now.Now I am replacing the light bulbs, the tailights have power along with the parking lights?(those little flashlight looking bulbs above the main bulb), but only one headlight seems to have power to the main bulb.I took the bulb out of the working headlight and tried it in the other one and it didn't work.I need to replace the tailights also, there is one on now(not stock), the other side doesn'thave one,is this a six volt tailight then? I wonder if NAPA or other parts stores could help with these bulbs?

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