Grimm
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Posts posted by Grimm
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If anyone is interested, take a gander over to Oldspower.com. The wife of the owner just joined, and will be giving details after the show airs.
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That was my first time at the show, and I think it was great. Well run, and yes the trophies were given timely. My only complaint would be to have more food vendors
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Check over on www.realoldspower.com I'm sure there are guys that have done the swap that could tell you.
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Check the FAQ on 442.com. They have some things to look for.
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If you don't mind not having the manual in front of you, get the CD version. I have it for the '68 and it's great. It has the Fisher body manual, the Chassis service manual, Parts catalog through '75, and Parts Illustration through '75, as well as some other cool stuff like popular movies that year, and production figures. You can also zoom in on the pages, which I think ends up a fair amount larger than the book text, though I can't say for sure since I don't have the books.
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Try Year One. They have seperate ones for the hardtops and the convertibles. I checked the OPG catalog I have, and they have the same comment, modification is needed on the top. Didn't look like Fusick has them either.
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Heheh, good, then we can afford more
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Sounds like the perfect opportunity for a little vacation in a warmer climate
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"I paid SMS $60 a yard for the Hurst's Comfort-Weave "
Actually that was the place I couldn't think of.
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My friend talked to a place (can't remember the name right now) to do the seats in his Tempest Custom S since they don't make bench covers. He was quoted like $45 a yard (I don't recall if it was a square yard) for his car.
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I think that price sounds a tad high, but you'd have to take a look to be sure. I've been actively looking at all cars for about two years when I decided I might finally have the money to buy one. That sounds a bit high, but if it's original and in very well kept shape, it might not be bad. Another factor is the area. I live in Michigan, and I think cars in the Midwest seem to command 10-20% more than other areas where cars stay rust free. And like someone said, you need to feel out the seller. $14,000 sounds a bit high, but if it's in very nice shape, and you can talk him down to say $12,000, then you might call it a good deal.
For what it's worth, I bought my '68 Cutlass convertible for $9500 last May. It's pretty much original, but has a '74 Olds 455 engine. It really could use a new top and rubber, but otherwise it is a nice car. It was appraised for $11,000, and was originally listed for $12,000 by the seller.
Then again, as tough as it can be to find the car you really want, it could be a good deal if that's what you want.
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Someone asked this very question on another site. The consensus was that if the car has the 60/40 bench it will have the necessary matching holes, but if it's a full bench it won't have the inside holes.
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Yes, the two door trim extends all the way to pretty much the bottom of the fender, but I think on the four doors I've seen, the trim stops about 4-6 inches from the top, and then a wide piece runs along the rocker panel to the other wheel.
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Sounds to me like you indeed have a Chevy engine. I've read before on other boards that a lot of the Canadian Cutlasses had Chevy engines.
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It's your car, do what you want with it. Being just a Cutlass though, I don't think the incorrect paint will affect value much, if at all. Check this link: http://johnnasta.com/6898/resources/index.html
Looks like black was available, not sure if it would have been a Cutlass color. I would think the sherwood green would be sharp otherwise. Heres a link: http://www.classicdreamcars.com/7054.html
Good luck picking a color. But remember, it's your car, so do what you like, not what will fetch another $500 if you decide to sell it in 10 years.
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Yes, but I'd rather not drain my bank account if I can find good used parts <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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At this time I mainly need the indicator lens for the auto console, as well as the plate that goes under it, the driver's side rear wheel well trim, and the trim for the front edge of the hood. If you have any other parts, I may be interested also as this car a number of trim pieces, etc. that could stand to be replaced. But the above items I really need. The car is a driver, so I'm not looking for new or perfect stuff. Thanks.
Doug
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According to 442.com's tech page, the best 350 was the '68-70 W-31 engine which had 325 HP. The best 455 was the '68 Hurst with 390 HP.
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Obviously, do what you feel comfortable with, but if money is an issue, stick with a private party. Dealers have to buy a car, and then make a profit, so they are usually a fair amount higher priced. So if you do see one that looks like a good deal, be very careful. My dad bought a '70 Corvette convertible from a local dealer and he regrets it. He paid $26K for it. It looks like a show car, but they didn't restore it well at all mechanically. Not to mention the salesman was such high pressure that he didn't use his head when evaluating it, and now he has a car that he can't stand to drive for more than an hour because it's so cramped.
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I don't know much about tires, and how yours look compared to mine, but I have 225/70/14's on my '68 and I think they look good.
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I know exactly how you feel Dave. Bought our '68 Cutlass just under a month ago, first toy car purchase. I'm checking ebay every day to see what new goodies show up for sale. I don't really need anything for it yet, but I end up putting a couple things a day in my watch list. All I wanted were floor mats, trunk mat, rear drivers side wheel well moulding, shifter lens and seal, trim for the front of the hood, and an insert for the center of the wheel. But I've seen a couple complete consoles I was tempted to bid on, a couple of drivers mirrors (mine appears incorrect), glove box, etc. I also know what you mean about delving into the projects. The first thing I ran into, was a brake pedal going to the floor. I'd like to look at it myself, and fix them if needed, or even maybe go with disc brakes, but I have no idea what I'm doing with that stuff, and I'm not about to make this car a death trap by doing it wrong. I'm definitely waiting for my shop manual CD to arrive and go through it thoroughly before I jump into any major undertakings. I have a neighbor behind me that has done a lot of things with his cars that I can call on for at least moral support <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
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To the Camaro guy: "What's the matter, you don't have any more room in your car after putting the box of nails in the back?" or "You must be building one of those little sheds for your car?"
To the guy wanting a donor car: "I can understand, Buick engines are tough to handle for an inexperienced guy like yourself." or "Oh, you need my car to tow yours to the garage?"
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I would agree with that, but also add: a muscle car would be a car that there would be no mistaking whether it was running or not, and it would not be driven by 90% of women because it's big, too loud, stinks, etc. The cars nowadays are too quiet and "cute" to be muscle cars. They are simply sports cars.
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I'm just getting into this myself, so I'm no expert. I don't know, but I would assume a '68 jack would work, but it depends on the jack. From what I've seen, there are two types of jacks, at least for the '68. They are a tall skinny thing, with either a hook type attachement or a cradle. Some bumpers have a small hole on either side of the car where the hook would go in the hole. But if you don't have those holes, like my car, you would need the cradle one where it goes under the bumper to "cradle" it.
On a side note, has anyone used these jacks much? My car didn't have a jack, or spare for that matter, so I need to find one. But I look at those jacks, and they don't look too stable. I'm thinking of finding a more recent, shorter jack where it would just go under the side of the car and jack it up by the frame. Any advice here?
Special info sites.
in Oldsmobile - General
Posted
Another good one is Oldspower.com.