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HurricaneCurt

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Posts posted by HurricaneCurt

  1. On 5/1/2020 at 9:05 PM, avgwarhawk said:

    I have removed torque tube assemblies four times.  It's a bit involved but I can have the entire assembly out in 30-45 minutes. Practice makes perfect.  Further, I did not need a come-along or anything to separate the assembly from the Dynaflow and manual transmission.  Level assembly to the tail of the transmission and she'll separate without much fanfare.  

     

    Order up a vulcanized torque ball.  No fussing with shims, etc.  Also, the manual shows guide pins when mating the torque ball to the torque tube.  Use them!  Makes life a lot easier.  Also keeps from buggering up the torque tube seal which I did when not using guide pins. 

     

    To answer your question, it's not a hard job. I performed my four ventures into removing and reinstalling the torque tube assemblies by myself. 

    Since you seem to be the expert on torque balls, lol, I have a question. Which side of the seal does the spring go? On the transmission side or the torque tube side? We found a diagram with it showing on the transmission side, but when we took it apart it was in the torque tube side of the retainer.

  2. So the story I got with the car is the the original owner passed away and it was sold to someone who rebuilt the engine in 2012. His intention was to do a frame off restoration. The power cables were replaced at that time. There is no delay in starting. I pump the pedal 3x, turn on the ignition, and she fires right up. She drives great. I have had to replace the torque ball seal to fix a pretty nasty leak and the rubber brake lines. The brakes work great, but we are going to put new cylinders and springs on (I have pads just in case). 
     

    Other than that she is a survivor. I have had her for 4 months now. She has 58,000 original miles and turns heads wherever I go. She is my only car (50th birthday present to myself) and I want her to be a solid daily driver. Her name is Miriam and she is the coolest thing I have ever owned. 

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    • Like 3
  3. Hello John! The current generator does not function at all. I either need to rebuild or replace it, so I feel like I might as well go to an alternator. As she is now, I have to charge her after 5 or 6 starts. I cannot drive at night because the lights are so dim. Another issue is that I drive only very short distances, less than 5 miles, and at slow speeds (less than 45 mph). I feel that the generator will not sufficiently charge the battery. They do not charge at low rpm.

     

    The wiring is going to be replaced. I am in the process of ordering new cloth covered wiring harnesses for her. With a one wire alternator, a single wire will be run from the alternator to the battery, bypassing the cloth wiring and charging the battery directly.

  4. I recently became the owner of a 46 Roadmaster Series 71. Car is mostly original as best I can tell. I bought the car for short trips around town and have been having trouble keeping a charge (battery is good). System is still 6V. I decided to buy a Powergen one wire alternator from Powermaster to keep an original feel. The problem I have is that the car uses a 1" v-belt and the biggest pulley I can find is for a 3/4 belt. The pulley on the generator is keyed and the shaft on the alternator is not. I have spoken with the people at Powermaster as well as several automotive suppliers and they just throw up their hands. I have called all over with no luck.
     

    The best I can figure my options after several calls are either A) to have a keyway cut into the shaft of the alternator, which, I am sure that will void any warranty or B.) pay a machine shop to make a pulley out of billet. I am sure option B will cost several hundred dollars. Logic would dictate that if they make a 1" belt, they should make a damn pulley for it, lol. 
     

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am including photos of the belt stock numbers, the pulley in question, and a detail of the generator pulley from the shop manual. 

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