Kingdomtraveler
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Posts posted by Kingdomtraveler
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On 1/6/2023 at 8:10 PM, arcticbuicks said:
The soviets used something similar (to the red and white one) during the winter war in Finland and also against the Germans once they arrived on scene. The Germans built several versions as well. Several models even mounted machine guns for defense. Only makes sense that there was a civilian version.
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That is a tough spot to be in. Original is always best but what to do in your situation? Not sure what to say. At least as a hot rod it would have a second life. Love the looks of that machine tho!
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What are my options for lights? The headlights are rather dim as are the dash lights. Is this just the way it is or could I somehow get better results?
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What a wealth of knowledge and experience! I am grateful!
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41 minutes ago, Walt G said:
You need to use a lacquer primer - it is sand-able so as smooth as that is that you can make it that is what the color coat you will spray on top of it will look like so far as being free of ripples, runs, pits etc. Everything you use with lacquer has to be lacquer based/compatible - thinner, primer, etc. Great you want to paint it yourself. You will need a compressor and a proper spray gun. If you start small and get a small "touch up spray gun" that will ease you into it and let you touch up small areas and not have to paint the whole panel.
The seller put a tarp on it and let it sit in his driveway for 2 years. That said, It looks like I could touch it up and be ok although there are large patches on the roof that are done to bare metal. I will shop around for a touch up spray gun and see where tis leads me. Sounds much more affordable than the shop... You folks are a God send, Thank you!
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1 minute ago, Walt G said:
I have painted several cars I restored in lacquer paint, you have to use caution like any other paint product. Use a proper mask to breathe through to prevent the paint over spray/dust from being inhaled etc. proper air pressure etc. To learn ask around and see who does the spray painting in lacquer and ask questions , see if you can have hands on learning etc. No need to be in fear of lacquer paint unless you are careless . There is a great fellow on here who repainted sections of his 1938 Studebaker after an accident and he used rattle cans of lacquer. Came out great. With lacquer it may take longer but you can spot in sections and not need to paint a whole fender,door etc.
So do I use just that paint? I have been told primer reacts with lacquer paint. That BS too? I will take all the advice I can get. Thank you everybody who spoke up.
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33 minutes ago, drhach said:
Apparently I can't just take his word for it. I just trusted him... thank you for sharing that!
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well it looks like I have to strip the lacquer paint and put modern paint on. Was hoping to keep her close to original but you cant get that paint and I am told it may cause illnesses including cancer. I don't know but I am talking with a shop in Manheim, Pa that specializes in painting antiques. Any suggestions?
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On 1/17/2023 at 7:46 AM, alsancle said:
Because it has a relatively high greenhouse. The longer wheelbase and hood stretches things out.
i found myself drooling a bit...
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On 1/10/2023 at 8:15 PM, George K said:
Absolutely beautiful car! Just looking at it you can tell the care that went into it's design and build. Sleek, sophisticated, powerful and stylish. Enough to make heads turn even on a grocery run. It's a shame they quit making them this way!
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My gas pedal arrived today. Looking forward to getting this car on step closer to roadworthy!
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On 1/5/2023 at 9:10 PM, Bloo said:
It runs? Nice! That linkage wont even function without the pedal. I'd check with KornKurt, and CPR about the pedal. Hopefully you can find one. If you can, I think Steele can re-rubber it, and you will probably need to. Mine is a mess. It has been made functional by repairing the ball sockets with masonite. The way they are made, holes on the rubber pop over those 2 balls on the floor, and the ball on the linkage. Yeah, that all rotted and fell off.
If you can't find the right one, you might look into one of these. I don't know why there are 2 ads from the same guy and one is cheaper. Maybe because the cheaper one seems to be missing a ball on the bracket? That bracket wouldn't be used on Pontiac anyway, the balls are in the floor. These are universal to fit a bunch of cars. I suspect it would work on the Pontiac but I don't know for sure. I would want a bunch of measurements before laying my money down..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403715788781
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403566647544
It runs on full throttle... revs high so I do not let it run for long. Roars to life quite easily. Exhuast stinks pretty bad. I am guessing it's old gas.
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On 1/6/2023 at 8:09 AM, EmTee said:
I think the forum wants you to post video to YouTube and then link to it from here. I did that once; kind of a PITA...
Thanks for the info! I ill do that.
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On 1/5/2023 at 8:38 PM, Axial_Flow said:
I like the Pontiac. It should make a great driver once sorted. I live in East Berlin and work in New Holland two days a week. Good luck with your project.
I work in Bird in Hand. Good area. I plan on putting it in the road as soon as I can.
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I had her running last night. tried to upload a video but i guess it's the wrong format. Very loud. Turns out I am missing the gas pedal. Now to find one...
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13 hours ago, Bloo said:
We were at the Hampton Inn. The show on Saturday was at the Cloister. What a cool area. I was having a bit of car trouble with the modern car I drove out from WA, and so didn't get to explore the area as much as I would have liked. I intended to post a thread about the event. Maybe one of these days I'll get my act together and do it.
If you ever get to the area again I would be happy to show you around! There is a lot of history that most people are unaware of. The Hampton Inn sits on the ground the old Ephrata Hotel once sat on. Many years ago there used to be a world class horse racing tack where the catholic church apartments now stand.
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3 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
you can have it ,will just be shipping ,its middle of winter here ,message in few months and you will probably need a thing or two yet....maybe
You are most generous! Thank you! I will keep in touch. Winter here, so far was cold for several weeks but now feels like spring.
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4 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
i have quite a few ,these are just the dead 36's saved from the crusher for a little while ......the regulator i will have
What's your price? probably wont jump for it right away but is nice to know.
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14 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
have a few parts cars out in the bush
You have some beautiful old tired iron! Such beauty and elegance in those machines. Sad to see them rust away. Thank you for sharing these pics. I am almost certain i will need a window regulator for the driver side rear door. I turned the crank and it turned freely while the window remained closed. I will get to it sometime soon.
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I live in Ephrata! What are the chances?? Any idea where exactly it was held?
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2 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
north of north dakota in canada
That would be a bit of a trek. I am in south central Pennsylvania, roughly 2 hours west of Philly.
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43 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:
that 36 Pontiac is just a nice looking car !.........i have steel doors on a 36 chev parts car....i will never use them....but shipping would be costly for someone wanting them,would sure cut down restoring door wood,also a set of coupe doors
What area are you in?
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17 minutes ago, pont35cpe said:
Bloo, all my stuff is `35 Pontiac, and `35 Chevy Master, most glass was cracked, broke, or missing. I don`t know when GM went to the double laminated safety glass, late `35 maybe. This is what i`ve found.. The windshield halves, and front door vents were laminated. All the door glass, was not safety glass, just one ply, that cracks and breaks into big pieces. I have one 2dr slant back, that all the glass was laminated, even the back window, which half of it had came completely loose from the other half and was broke. All the other rear window glass, is one solid piece. I have an original rear window piece of glass, but its for a coupe. The coupe rear window is smaller than a sedan window by about 1" in height. I`d almost bet your rear window is a solid piece of glass. Travelers, all his glass looks to be laminated, but again his rear window is most likely one solid piece. When it comes to replacing the rear glass, be ready, almost always, the lower piece of the wood across the bottom of the window, is rotted away. Same goes for the Traveler, he may discover a lot of dry rotted wood when opening up the doors to replace the glass. Its the "snowball effect", front/rear windows will need new gaskets, doors and vent window divider post, will all need new channeling. And the vent glass frame, usually rusted, sometime real bad, beyond repair, and that piece usually needs to be re-chromed, also you`ll need the vent window gaskets, and divider post seal. Then there`s the window regulators, they will need attention also, and the vent window gear boxes, which are sometimes stripped gears. A lot of these parts/pieces are just about impossible to find anymore. You just won`t know until you get in there. I`m trying to do 2 pairs of doors, for a coupe, and a convertible, sometimes, when i get disgusted, i have to get away from them, and do something else.
Thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience. I am grateful.
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1931 McLaughlin 90-have to make a realistic choice ?
in General Discussion
Posted
Any project or job tends to become a curse if your heart is not in it.