Nicole F
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Posts posted by Nicole F
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10 minutes ago, wayne sheldon said:
"Antique Auto" color cards? For 1946? When was that published? 1970s?
The Nazi stamp must have been a sick joke.
I was finally able to find something similar online and you are absolutely right! Published in 1970s. What a weird thing to do!
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Right? That’s what I was thinking but who would stamp a car color booklet with a Third Reich stamp (it looks somewhat official!)? So odd (and disturbing)!
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So we recently purchased a 1946 Ford Super Deluxe convertible and it came with a lot of cool stuff. Like the original tool kit, manuals, gas rationing sticker and brochures/ads. It also came with an original Ford paint chip color booklet “Kolorkardz” On the back of the booklet there is a German stamp with a swastika??? I can’t seem to find anything online - does anyone know what this is about? Was the paint company affiliated with the Third Reich? Or was the previous car owner a Nazi? Yikes!
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I’ll have the mechanic check this out too! Thanks!!
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Thank you so much Jeff!! This is an incredible amount of information (I have saved it for future reference). Thank you for taking the time to write all of this! So helpful!
I also purchased these books (as others recommended). So hoping to be able to be better at understanding all of this.
I have an appointment with a classic car mechanic in July 5th and I will have them do a complete brake inspection. I would love to keep the original brakes.
Thank you again!
Nicole
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6 minutes ago, Oldtech said:
Sounds like the clutch is draggy. You may need to adjust the "free Travel" on the pedal. If it has too much motion before you feel it make pressure on the clutch it should be adjusted, 3/4 to an inch is typical. OR... it may just need to be driven.
The driving part I can do! I’ll also add that to the list of questions for the mechanic in July.
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Update! The battery finally measured as fully charged on the tender. I left it off over night and she turned over this evening perfectly! Will keep an eye on it but I think it was just a drained battery - much have been that way when we got her. I think the many suggestions to better ground the cable is a really good idea. So I will look into doing that!
In other news, I think I’m finally getting the hang of driving her! The gears are so touchy and it’s easy to grind when trying to shift from 3rd to 2nd… my husband who has a class A license suggested to give her a bit of gas with the clutch in to get the rpm’s up to the proper spot and then shift down (that’s what they have to do in the big rigs)… and it works great. Smooth as silk! Any other suggestions to make sure I’m not putting any undue pressure on the clutch or transmission are greatly appreciated! I’m hoping these old cars are a bit forgiving while I learn their ways! And question… sometimes when starting out of the garage, she doesn’t want to go into reverse or 1st, even after going back and forth from 2nd and 3rd. So I finally had to just go for it and it grinded a little before going into gear. How do I avoid that?
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1 hour ago, Bhigdog said:
Having a 70ish year old car is like having a 16 year old daughter. Nuff said.....bob
Sassy and temperamental. Check. 😉
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2 minutes ago, Grimy said:
I use "Startron" enzyme-based stabilizer from a marine store and have found it better than even blue (marine) Sta-Bil. It's pricey (about $40/qt in CA but also available in pint bottles) but the dose is 1 oz per 8 gallons. Pour additive in at gas station just before beginning fueling, so the pressure and volume from the nozzle will mix it properly.
Thanks so much! Will add this to my notes!
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3 hours ago, charlespetty said:
My 1947 Lincoln Continental smelled the garage up with a strong gas smell every time I filled the tank full, but not once the gas level in the tank fell below about 3/4 full. Turned out the gasket around the fuel gauge sending unit at the top of the tank had failed thereby letting gas from a full tank slosh around and dribble down the side of the tank from the sending unit. Once I replaced the gasket and carefully sealed the sending unit opening, no more strong gas smell.
That’s a gorgeous car! One of our cousins in ID has the same model and year - convertible. Much fancier than the economically marketed super deluxe. 😉 I think they did a lot of modifications to the engine though - it’s an automatic transmission, which isn’t listed on the specs. I have a pic of the engine and it makes mine look like a lawn mower! I read it’s 300hp!! Mine is like 100, which is less than my Harley Fatboy. Haha! But that’s okay. She’s just for cruising 😊
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6 hours ago, m-mman said:
Your collector car is new to you and you are enjoying it, so you probably keep a supply of fuel in it. (half? full?)
Those of use who have several collector cars and no one car in particular is used regularly, typically store them as empty as possible.
Yeah, we risk running out on the way BACK from an event, rather that have too much fuel in it for months at a time.
Modern gas evaporates quickly and leaves all kinds of sticky gunk in the fuel system that can cause problems and is difficult to clean out. As you learn your car, you will associate the gauge reading with "about to run out" and that's where you want it when it gets put away for a while. (months and months that can turn into years)
But for now you are driving it regularly so keep gas in it and enjoy it.
But get used to the odors as described above.
Interesting! That’s good advice for when we put her up for the winter. Do you guys use any fuel stabilizer (we put that in the motorcycles for winter storage)?
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6 hours ago, rocketraider said:
I think she's a quick learner and will soon be a 40s Ford expert, willing to share her knowledge as we've done.
We need to find her some PNW old car company. In meantime, ride around with the car top down and the radio on!
And she has my permission to slap the first nincompoop coot who tells her she has no business with a car like that! Happened to me in 1984 at age 27 and I haven't had any use for that ornery old cuss since. Don't care if he was the local "old car guru"- he was a jerk. Grade A Prime jerk.😠
Thanks so much for the support and encouragement! Unfortunately I doubt I will ever be able to devote enough time to this (or any hobby!) to be an expert, but I do really love learning about this stuff. I have a full time, very stressful job in finance that requires that I travel quite a bit. Also have a family and several animals that deserve my attention. And I’m in graduate law school right now. But I hope to at least gain enough knowledge to give Patty Lou (named after my grandmother’s childhood nickname) the garage/home she deserves 😊 And I feel like I really came to the right place - you guys have been SO helpful!!
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Just now, TerryB said:
The fuel tank in your car is vented directly to the air, usually through a small opening in the gas cap. Modern cars use recovery of vented gas fumes rather than air venting. Small amounts of fumes can be expected. Too much and you may want to look for a loose clamp in the fuel lines.
Thanks Terry! I’ll take a look!
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1 minute ago, dictator27 said:
Modern gasoline is much more volatile than when your car was new. You may find that the float bowl in the carb is empty after the car has not been run for a few days because the gas has evaporated. This may be the source of the smell if there are no signs of a gas leak anywhere.
It does seem to be worse after driving and then is dissipates after a few days.
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Hi again. First of all I want to thank all of you who have been so generously helping to educate me on my first classic car. What an amazing resource this forum is! You guys are the best!!
We are storing her in our large, 3 car garage (high ceilings) and there is a consistent gasoline smell (which is kind of a bummer because our gym is also in the garage 😑). I am assuming this is somewhat normal for these old cars? But how much is too much (and an indication of some sort of issue/leak)?
Thanks a million!!
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5 minutes ago, JamesR said:
Hi. I don't know how this would work if flatheads in fact have the two sending units as Grimy said above (I'm not a flathead guy) but one of the biggest favors I've done myself and my old cars is putting decent quality aftermarket mechanical temperature gauges on them. I literally went for years thinking my '54 Ford Y block ran hot until I replaced the original gauge with a decent quality mechanical gauge, and I found it actually ran COOL. They aren't hard to install, but like I said I don't know how that works on a flathead. The temp gun that others mentioned is also a great idea.
Mechanical gauges aren't electrically actuated but work kind of like an old school thermometer that senses temperature. They come with a sending unit that should replace the original electrical sending unit, (if that's what you currently have.) One of the great things about mechanical gauges is that you can test them prior to installation by putting the sending unit in a pan of water on the stove that's coming to a boil, as water boils at 212 (as mentioned by someone else. ) When the water starts boiling, the gauge should read 212. If it's off a few degrees, you make a mental not of that whenever you read your gauge...Slightly inconvenient but all the mystery is gone when you pretest the unit in boiling water.
You said: "The hoses were hot - 170 (right fasting car) and 140 left. And the radiator was 195, also there was a bit (not a lot) of steam coming out of this part (pictured)"
That doesn't sound like overheating to me, but it depends on whether the engine was at standard operating temp or not. If you were at stand op temp, then your high temp gauge readings show you how incorrect original/electric/whatever gauge was. I PERSONALLY don't trust my original temp gauges farther than I can throw them. What's happening to you has happened to me several times on several different cars. The originality oriented folks will chime in to the contrary, but that's my perspective.
Also, you may or may not know that engine temp is higher on old cars when idling in place than when they're running down the highway, but that 's usually how it works. It's kind of counterintuitive. Air through the radiator at speed cools the temp down considerably. And as others have said, the "steam" coming out of that part is actually blow by and engine fumes which is typical (in small amounts) for old engines. Good luck!
Thank you James!! This is good info - the issue is I just don’t know what’s normal for these cars/engines so I appreciate the perspective very much. My biggest fear is getting stranded somewhere.
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1 minute ago, rocketraider said:
And if ya REALLY want to go hardcore, a battery terminal puller!
I had to replace my 1975 vintage puller last year when it basically fell apart. I'd had it since auto tech school. The instructor, Mr Comer, noticed us using hammers, screwdrivers, pry bars, big pliers etc to remove stubborn battery terminals and got the Cornwell Tools jobber to bring enough pullers for all his first-year students.
He was a good man and mentor. Hundreds of his former students attended his funeral.
That’s a cool gadget! And a very cool teacher.
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11 hours ago, Grimy said:
That black cap is the crankcase breather cap and should contain copper wool. I recommend removing and cleaning the mesh by soaking in solvent and shaking out well. Depending on how crudded up it is, it may take a couple of "rinse, repeat."
I also note the block-off plate where the mechanical fuel pump should be, which indicates that the car already has an electric fuel pump.
Will take a look at that cap - thanks!
Interesting! So another modification I wasn’t aware of. I will ask the mechanic (on July 5th) to let me know if any other “upgrades” to the engine. Thank you!!
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11 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:
Not a flathead Ford owner, but the "steam" coming out of that black thing might be crankcase fumes escaping through the crankcase vent. Typical of an older pre-PCV engine with some miles on it. There is also a road draft tube exiting under the engine that may also be emitting smoke, especially at idle. Used to be a common sight in the 60s to see cars emitting smoke while stopped at traffic lights.
Radiators back then did not have a plastic overflow container like modern vehicles, so the expansion room for warm coolant (as coolant warms it expands) is in the top tank of the radiator. Look at the top tank of the radiator for a FILL LINE. If none, leave an inch or two of air between the coolant and the radiator cap area (others with more late 40s Ford knowledge may chime in).
170 °F is warm operating temperature. It is a non-pressurized cooling system (I'm guessing), so operation above 220 or so is what's to be avoided. Water boils at 212 °F, but coolant (50/50 antifreeze/water mix) won't boil until much hotter, 223 °F at 0 psig pressure.
Hmmmm… so maybe it’s not overheating? Guess I need to test again after another drive. Great info! Thanks!
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4 minutes ago, MCHinson said:
I would again urge you to buy a factory service manual. There is no book as helpful as the manufacturer's original repair instructions that are specifically for your car. There are multiple inexpensive ones on ebay. Here is one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255537600435?hash=item3b7f3a57b3:g:1M0AAOSw6CtigWXm
Thanks! Bought that one too!
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2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
Here is an excellent book that would cover electrical systems for your car's time period, pretty cheap, too. This is one of a five book set, each covering major systems of your basic car. In 1959 my Mom helped me buy that year's set. I still have them and refer to them occasionally. Searching the rest of the volumes by Mcgraw Hill and Crouse would get you a useful set. Keep the copyright date in the mid-1960's or earlier.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133521181307?hash=item1f167b8a7b:g:NCEAAOSwofVfYlFC
You will be acquiring new knowledge through the ownership of this car. Finding specific information on the Ford is very useful at this point. You should also try to learn and observe other cars when you have the opportunity. Drawing knowledge from many applications will help you gain a deeper understanding of all related things and a clarity of how things work that you may not have expected. If you stop at the Goodwill store, a yard sale, or even perusing the cheap books on Ebay it can be quite rewarding to pick up a dollar shop manual on an unrelated car and spending the evening looking through.
Years ago I taught an apprenticeship program that used a large McGraw Hill textbook. I knew reading it was a sure cure for insomnia. I told the students to just page through, look at the pictures, and read the captions. They usually ended up in the paragraphs learning and staying awake.
Here's an ideal 1955 book: https://www.ebay.com/itm/392042465411?hash=item5b478d4883:g:BcQAAOSw75xa-Azl
Thank you! Just bought both! 😊
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On 5/21/2022 at 3:56 PM, Nicole F said:
Hi again! As I’m getting to know this old girl, I really appreciate the help from this forum - thank you!!! It’s car show season here and all the classic car mechanics are booked until the end of summer
Now that we seem to have the battery issue managed… It’s (finally!) a beautiful sunny day here in Portland so I took her out for a spin in the countryside. I noticed after about 10 min of driving, the temp gauge was pretty much pegged to hot the whole time - it was only a 30 min drive. How would I know if it is a gauge issue or the car is actually too hot and in danger of overheating? PS - The car passed a complete inspection before it was shipped to us.
Thank you!!
UPDATE
so we took her out and she was fine for a bit but then hit hot while idling in the driveway. The hoses were hot - 170 (right fasting car) and 140 left. And the radiator was 195, also there was a bit (not a lot) of steam coming out of this part (pictured) - I have video of it but apparently I can’t post it here. Also, when we moved the car there was leakage (see pic) on the ground - it wasn’t leaking anything before yesterday.
Thanks for your help!!
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14 minutes ago, Grimy said:
@Nicole F this AACA site has members who keep their cars stock, for the experience of driving as it was done then, despite our recognition that technological improvements have made performance in acceleration, braking, and cornering better since our cars were built. Less-than-current standards of performance and economy are acceptable. My 1918 and 1922 cars have brakes on only TWO wheels! People who want modern performance with an old-style body go the modified route--that's not us!
When I was younger than you (a very long time ago), I had a 1948 Ford 4-door sedan and a 1947 2-door sedan. So my question is what kind of experience do you want to have with your 1946 Ford convertible (which I would have loved to have had!)? I'm all for improving reliability, but these cars were reliable when they were new. My improvements for reliability on my own cars are (1) a supplemental electric fuel pump to compensate for 10%-ethanol gas for vapor-lock conditions and for priming when I haven't started the car for a week or more, and (2) additional or upgraded grounding cables as suggested by others above. Your Ford's transverse suspension means that it will never corner like even a mid-1950s car. I'm glad you're staying with the flathead V8.
My caution is that whenever any of us modifies anything at all from stock, we should create a binder with parts numbers for anything modified--because in 10 years under yours or someone else's ownership, what alternator do you ask for at the parts store? There will never be a listing for an alternator for a 1946 Ford at NAPA. That binder needs to be carried with you on trips in case of breakdown. Or it could be a spreadsheet or Word document on your phone.
Hi there! Totally agree about experiencing the car the way it was in the time it was built - that’s what it’s all about for me! Which is why I love that there are very few modifications on this car. It even came with the original manual and tool kit! Amazing! I love everything about the car. Sometimes I just sit in it for an hour and enjoy the smell. Lol. But I was told by severely people that for safety we should upgrade the tires and brakes. And even the concours shows don’t mark you down for safety modifications. (Not that we’re looking to compete there) Honestly, I would prefer to not spend the money anyway, so I’ll have the brakes checked to make sure they are 100% and just continue to driver her so I can gain more confidence.
I think I will try to upgrade the grounding cables - that’s actually something I may be able to do! Lol and yes, I will keep full record of everything I do.
Thank you!!
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1 minute ago, john hess said:
what Walt G said....!!! 100%..... my 53 pontiac is "as built" and performs just fine..... bias tires will earn your respect quickly on wet, smooth roads..... asphalt or concrete.... Remember, most of these cars grew up on dirt roads and consequently, slower speeds.... no need for instant stopping..... besides, slow down and enjoy the ride !!! I have other toys for raising my fear (pucker) factor ..!!
I live in a busy suburb with tons of street traffic, so even if I allow plenty of room in between me and the cars in front of me, people use it as an opportunity to cut in, etc. which necessitates a quick stop sometimes. I ride a big Harley so I know how to manage other people’s bad driving, but my Harley is far more agile and has ABS. I am of the same mind that original is better - I love the idea of experiencing the car the way it was experienced when my grandmother was driving. But I also want to avoid (even minor) accidents. I’m definitely still getting used to driving her, so maybe it’s just a matter of experience and I’ll feel more confident over time. I will get the brakes checked though, to make sure they are performing as well as they can.
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Kolorkardz booklet with Nazi stamp???
in General Discussion
Posted
Good point! Maybe all the stuff we have isn’t original (part of the car) but just collected over the years. Hard to know.