Jump to content

johns29

Members
  • Posts

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by johns29

  1. 26 minutes ago, MCHinson said:

    Your description sounds like you have insufficient amperage to turn the engine when it has higher compression caused by the engine being hot. You either need a good 6 volt battery to replace your weak battery, or more likely you need to clean all of the connectors in the battery cable circuit. 6 volt systems will act just like that when they have too much resistance in the starter circuit, caused by corrosion or loose connectors. If the battery cables have been replaced with modern thinner cables, they could also be the problem. Typical modern thinnner battery cables sold in chain auto parts stores are designed for 12 volts and will also cause that type of problem. Old cables which have too much internal resistance can also cause that type of problem. If you check out the system and correct the problem it will probably be a better and cheaper fix than trying to "improve" it by conversion to 12 volts. I have driven 6 volt cars for many years and many miles. They work fine as long as the starter circuit cables and connections have good properly sized cables with clean tight connections and a good 6 volt battery. When you jump start it, you are overcoming the excess resistance caused by a problem in the circuit. Correct the problem and your car will start reliably as it did when it was new.  

    Okay, Yes that makes sense. I will do everything you suggested and see what I end up with. Thank you for the advice! I'll try it!!

    • Like 3
  2. 4 hours ago, alsancle said:

    Why?   You will see may topics like this on the forum.  The general response is to ask why you want do make the change.   Typically the reason is slow starter or some other problem with the existing 6V system.   The responses will be something like find and fix the problem with the existing system.  You will be better off.  

     

    If you tell us what is going wrong you will get some good advice on how to fix it. 

     

    As an admission, I converted one of my cars from 6V to 12V with electronic ignition years ago.  I really regret doing that and I know better now.

    Well, Thanks for your response... Yes, the why is slow start and whenever I take it out for a little ride and sometimes my wife is with me. Anyway if I stop someplace and turn it off it never wants to start again and have to bum a jump. Starter turns real slow until I jump it. This gets very frustrating and frankly I'm getting tired of it. And no, I do believe there is not anything else wrong with. It runs good and charges. I am 70 and I used to work on these old cars long ago. When I Jump it with my truck or my charger on boost it turns faster and starts in two or three turns. So, Yes I want a 12 volt system.  Problem solved. Unless some very nice person gives me another idea that will work.

  3. Hi All,

    Have any of you guys made this voltage change over?  Well i have been thinking about it and I was looking on Ebay for parts. They have a complete changeover kit for my 41 Ford and it was like $957 and I can't handle that right now. Is that a more simple changeover that cheaper to buy and do? Just asking...

     

  4. Okay all you Pre-War Ford owners and previous owners. I have a 41 Ford Super Deluxe with a factory radio.

    It has vacuum wipers. I sent and got a 6-volt electric wiper motor and looking at the directions on installation and they say the electric motor cannot be installed leaving the radio in. Well, the radio doesn't work anyway and having electric wipers is more important to me. Does anyone know if a radio delete plate exists? If so, does anyone have one or know where I can get one?

    Thanks in advance! 

    John Craig

  5. On 9/6/2022 at 10:23 AM, 19tom40 said:

    If your timing is off the points are worn or someone maladjusted the points. I doubt that timing is your problem.

     

    Test your battery voltage under load by connecting the volt meter across the battery and trying to crank the engine with the starter.  An 8 volt battery should read at least 6.5 volts.

     

    The way I would trouble shoot your problem is to check the voltage drop from the battery to the starter terminal (black lead on battery terminal, red lead on starter) the voltage reading should be 0.3V or less. If it is higher you may have corroded or incorrect cables, bad solenoid or bad starter.

    I was talking to an oldtimer today and said I should short across the pos and negative on the voltage regulator while it's running and it will start charging. He said you have to do that every time you disconnect the battery, I will have to think about that one. I seem to recall back in the 60's we did do that to reverse polarity on the regulator. It's been way too long to remember those things. LOL.

  6. 10 hours ago, 19tom40 said:

    If your timing is off the points are worn or someone maladjusted the points. I doubt that timing is your problem.

     

    Test your battery voltage under load by connecting the volt meter across the battery and trying to crank the engine with the starter.  An 8 volt battery should read at least 6.5 volts.

     

    The way I would trouble shoot your problem is to check the voltage drop from the battery to the starter terminal (black lead on battery terminal, red lead on starter) the voltage reading should be 0.3V or less. If it is higher you may have corroded or incorrect cables, bad solenoid or bad starter.

    I will do those things and see what I get. Thanks a lot for the info!!

  7. Okay, I just bought a 41 Ford Super Deluxe. Wife and I took it out for a ride last night and all was good. Well today I took it out for gas and put in a lead additive in the gas. After filling up at the station I hit the starter button and just one short grunt...Had I guy with a jump box, and it cranked right up. The guy I bought from put in an eight-volt battery in it. came home and started a little research. I read that the timing might a little off. Then I remembered as a young guy on our old cars sometimes we had that same problem. Pulled in the garage turned it off and same thing, nothing. Checked the battery and it showed 8.2 volts on an 8-volt battery. To me that says the generator is charging. Otherwise, it would have been running off the battery. Now, my question is: Is it a little off on timing or maybe a weak coil? I recall that also in the past 1960's Any help or suggestions would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.  John   

  8. Looks almost like my 29. Model 27.  Mine is dark blue body and black top and fenders. Lot of work to do yet. I did get it running and just have to put tailpipe on to have the new exaulst on. Love the old car. 

  9. Okay all you Pre-war Buick guys. I am in search of a gas cap for a 1929 Buick Model 27  Series 116. 

    I am told only a 29 will fit. I have tried  2 other different ones and they were both too small.

    I tried Bob's Automobilia and couldn't find one there. Does anyone have one they can part with or know where I can get one? Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks,

    John

  10. On 1/17/2022 at 9:37 PM, ericmac said:

    I have this posted on a model building forum but thought you might enjoy seeing it here. The model is a resin reproduction of one of the earliest model kits, produced by SMP that later morphed into AMT models. It is a very simple snap together/glue together model of about 35-40 parts. I added the windshield and top boot as well as the 1911 license plate. 20220117_214043.jpg.74c484c9fbc8189ff5c4b50d6c774f59.jpg20220116_230910.jpg.3d385520ddb3ad22aa3f96a26a2120b9.jpg20220116_230806.jpg.e8bd965504bef40794d7e6de5af58548.jpg

    I would love to find a 1929 Buick Model 27  Series 116 Model

  11. On 4/26/2022 at 9:22 PM, raydurr said:

    I have a recently rebuilt 1929 Buick mechanical fuel pump available for sale.

    Does your engine have provisions for mounting a mechanical fuel pump?

    It is on left side,above oil pan rail and just ahead of the flywheel housing.

    Raydurr, Please send me an email with info on the pump you have...   john_craig53@hotmail.com  

  12. 20 hours ago, IFDPete said:

    Just FYI - If you do install the electric fuel pump that you purchased, place it back by the gas tank rather than up by the engine.  Your mechanic friend is correct in suggesting an install location near the tank. The aftermarket electric pumps are designed to be fed and push the fuel forward.  They are not designed to pull the fuel from a distance from the tank (like placing it close to the engine).  If the pump is pulling fuel its motor will wear out / burn out.  Pulling the fuel stresses the pump motor.  Placing the pump close to the tank and at a level lower than the tank will assist it in doing its job and it will have a longer service life.  There are many video tutorials on how to install one. 

    Thank you!  I figured that was a good idea. It just stands to reason...

  13. On 4/26/2022 at 7:54 PM, Oldtech said:

    I would like to see pictures of your engine compartment.  Sounds different!

    After talking to Bill McLaughlin today I believe I have a later production 29. I should have the mechanical pump but does not, for whatever reason. I will probably use the 6-volt electric fuel pump I already bought, out of sight of course.

  14. On 4/19/2022 at 7:14 AM, Larry Schramm said:

    1929 was the first year for a fuel pumps on Buicks.

    I must have an early 29 Model 27 because it has the vacuum fuel pump mounted on the firewall passenger side. I think I might mount an electric pump on the frame rail not far from the tank in the rear. A friend of mine is a very good mechanic and said it might be better to put it in the rear near the tank as to be better to push the gas instead of pulling it. Have you guys ever here of that?

    • Like 1
  15. 11 hours ago, Oldtech said:

    I don't see any pictures but 29's had a fuel pump, at least the big ones did. Not sure on 20 series so I'll take your word for it.  A vacuum tank works well, but of course condition is everything.  There is no "pressure" it's gravity feed from the tank to the carb.  Lots of info on here on how they work if you search. There is a float and valve mechanism inside so take the top off and see what it looks like. 

    I tried to bring some pics over but the file was to big... Thanks

  16. 11 hours ago, Oldtech said:

    I don't see any pictures but 29's had a fuel pump, at least the big ones did. Not sure on 20 series so I'll take your word for it.  A vacuum tank works well, but of course condition is everything.  There is no "pressure" it's gravity feed from the tank to the carb.  Lots of info on here on how they work if you search. There is a float and valve mechanism inside so take the top off and see what it looks like. 

     

    11 hours ago, Oldtech said:

    I don't see any pictures but 29's had a fuel pump, at least the big ones did. Not sure on 20 series so I'll take your word for it.  A vacuum tank works well, but of course condition is everything.  There is no "pressure" it's gravity feed from the tank to the carb.  Lots of info on here on how they work if you search. There is a float and valve mechanism inside so take the top off and see what it looks like. 

    I tried to bring pics over but the file was to big. Not sure about using the original one. I may install the electric one out of view. Thanks

  17. Okay all you pre war Buick owners. I kept looking for a standard looking fuel pump and today what I kept thinking was an oil filter canister turned out to be a vacuum gasoline system. Do these work good? what kind of pressure do they produce? I am now in between on what to use. I have already bought an electric 6 volt one. Anyone have any insight?

    I tried to bring pics over but it said the file was too big...

  18. Hello everyone,

    I need a gas cap for my 1929 Buick model 27  series 116. I am having a hard time finding one. I bought two different ones that were supposed to fit and neither one fit. Luckily I was able to return them. I had a gentleman tell me the 29 was different than the years before and after. The filler neck is bigger. So if anyone has one or knows where I can get one please let me know. Thanks in advance...

  19. 1 hour ago, Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel said:

    Greetings from Cincinnati- I hope to see you and your car out this year.  

    Working in West Harrison, IN.  

    Hi Ted,

    I have a few things to do to it but I hope to be out to some of the local shows. Maybe we will meet at one...

    Thanks

     

  20. 4 hours ago, raydurr said:

    The 1929 Buick uses a unusual sized fuel filler cap. I'm not sure what other applications used the same size and configuration. I don't have a Stant part number to assist in your search. Bobs Automobilia used to have those caps available. Tony Bult may have one.

    Thank you Raydurr.  I will check Bob's. I am looking on there for something too...

  21. I have bought two different gas caps off Ebay and both of them were wrong. Both were supposed to be for a 29. Both were too small. Does anyone have an extra one that will fit, that they will sell?  Or, have a resource where I can get the proper gas cap?  All replies are welcome and appreciated.  Thanks all...

×
×
  • Create New...