Draconarmy
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Posts posted by Draconarmy
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Made some progress pulling everything off the engine, with hopes of freeing it up. Removed head starter manifolds( only destroyed one manifold bolt) valve covers and oil pan. Filled each cylinder with marvel mystery oil, 1,2 and four leaked down successfully other didn't. Tried to turn engine by both the harmonic balancer and flywheel, even tried taping each piston with hammer and block of wood while wife kept pressure on the harmonic balancer. I'm resisting the urge to undo the pistons from the crank and try to push them out the top. Not sure what to do next.
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In other news after much archeology work I managed to unearth and remove the oilpan bolts. Pan seems sound( think it was protected by shell of grease and dirt). Tomorrow I will start removing connecting rod clamps to see if that will help me free the engine. Counting from front of the engine, cylinders 3, 5 and 6 will not leak down so are most likely cause of the stick.
Can the pistons be lifted out of the top of the engine without damaging anything?
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On 1/4/2022 at 6:54 PM, 36 D2 Coupe said:
Removing the manifold can be difficult if the two studs that go THROUGH the manifold are swelled with rust. The exhaust manifold on my '36 was broken that way. To get the rust out from around the studs others have suggested finding a piece of tubing that JUST fits over the stud, cut some teeth on it, spin it with a drill and see if it will chew the rust away and release the manifold. Better than trying to find a new manifold. Incidentally does your intake manifold attach to the exhaust manifold with through bolts or is it fastened with bolts that pass up through the exhaust manifold and thread into the intake manifold? if it is the latter, be VERY careful trying to take it apart. I broke off 3 of the 4 bolts on mine and it was not fun removing the broken studs.
Best of luck with your new project. Ask lots of questions and we'll try to help you.
Looks to me like there are two bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the intake, and two knobs on the back. Those came off without incident. But with one bolt each manifold, I'm stuck. One is behind the intake holding exhaust and I seem to have rounded out the front side bolt between them.
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5 minutes ago, jpage said:
The B and B carb is not the correct carb for that car. it used a Stromberg EXV-2, which will work better than the B&B.
That's because that's not the original engine. Engine is a 51 carb seems to be of the same year
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2 hours ago, keiser31 said:
Look for any bolts/nuts on the motor side of the manifold.
Looking at pictures online I think I figured it out, got the 4 obvious ones from exhaust, and 4 obvious ones from intake. There's 2more right between the two right under the carb. Too dark to fight it tonight but at least I can quit beating my head against the wall
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Update: got the radiator out still no luck spinning the engine so removed water pump then head. Lots of scale on piston heads and valves. Filled cylinders with marvel oil to try and leak down. In the meantime began removing carb and minifold to get at the valve springs. Carb came off relatively easy and will need to be rebuilt, being seized up at the throttle linkage. Took apart the fuel bowl and cleaned the glass with viniger ( went from red brown to crystal clear). Removed every bolt I could find holding the manifold but it won't break free. Any idea what could be holding it other than the studs? Sorry forgot to take any pictures
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Thanks everyone
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Ok so bring the original how do I get a key, I see no marks to identify key cut?
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First solid day wrenching on the dodge. We have affectionately started referring to her as Oscar the grouch due to the coating of lichen. She will eventually be known as Betsy the beautiful.
Started out by putting her on stands, moved on to removing spark plugs so I could use some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders. Those plugs took more than a healthy dose of PB blaster and some "gentle" (read 4 foot cheater bar) to break free. Moved under to drain the oil. No water or sludge ( thank God) but the oil had a noticeable red tint.
Is that normal for older style oils?
Due to the engine being much newer I couldn't reach through the crank hole to try to spin it so I began removing bolts holding the radiator to get to the crankshaft pulley. Several hours half a propane can and two drilled out bolts it's free. Got dark as I started to pull the water pump to get the clearance to pull the radiator so that's where I left off until tomorrow.
Biggest take away from today is a reminder of how much I hate flat head screws (yes I will put them back)
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I'm in central Alabama
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Recently got ahold of a 36 dodge and the driver side headlight bucket is rusted through on the underside. I am located in central Alabama
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Already taking care of this. Alabama doesn't do titles on cars older than 1974. Registration is relatively easy especially since the last car tag it had was 1969
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Picked up a 36 dodge yesterday( was told it was a 38). Engine seems to be a 51 Plymouth( engine of plate is blank) and the interior is gutted. Lots of work to do but it was free so no complaints. Serial number appears to be 4266181 (plate on passenger A pillar). Fuel tank is crushed and exhaust is mostly corrugated pipe. Exterior sheeting is mostly sound with some work needed on floor pan, rocker panels and running boards roof had a tree limb fall on it and the insert seal is growing grass now. PO has four modern spare tires on it (doughnuts). Engine seems to be seized, can't seem to spin it by hand so full rebuild seems in order
Much to most of y'all's dismay I will probably be using mostly reproduction parts to safeguard my bank accounts and marriage.
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Just found this and glad for it. Had the car pictured below gifted to me and it's my first time with anything older than 83 and first restoration
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Picked up a 36 dodge today ( was told it was a 38) and they didn't have keys, can't tell if this is the original ignition switch or an after market swap. And how would I get keys if it is original
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Just had a 38 dodge sedan dropped in my lap, will post pictures as soon as it arrives. Just wanted to see what I should be aware of. Plan to keep it as close to stock as I can (prefer original restoration over mod)
Cant wait to get started
Alabama 36 dodge sedan rebirth
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Finally had some good weather, so I got out and tried some more to free the engine with no luck. Did however figure out that the lip at the top of the cylinders was actually a brass shim/gasket. With that figured out I set about removing cylinders through the top of the engine. 1 and 2 (counting from the front) can't be removed as they sit due to the connecting rods not being able to clear the block with the crankshaft in it's current position. 4 came out with little persuasion. 3,5 and 6 are stuck tight so I poured ATF/acetone solution in the cylinders covers over with aluminum foil and secured with a Bungie cord to prevent the acetone from evaporating.
I then switched gears to cleaning out the cab. As I suspected the seat springs are roached. What I thought was the rear seat bucket turned out to be the front( add that to list of parts to procure). After about an hour of vacuuming ( had to dump the thing twice). I finally got a good look at the floor pan and it's in much better shape than I had hoped. Will need to fabricate a new battery box is all.