DecoDog
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Posts posted by DecoDog
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4 minutes ago, keithb7 said:
Thank you very much! This is extremely helpful. My model has a overdrive as well, and I’ve actually yet to find a second drain port, but I was also in a poorly lit claustrophobic underside of the car. I’ll have to double check tomorrow. For the time being got the transmission filled with SAE 90 as the owners manual specifies for overdrive equipped transmissions.
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24 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:
The trans pictured shows a pipe plug with a square recess that will take a 3/8 socket handle or extension. Some have a pipe plug with a square protrusion you can put a wrench on. Pro tip: On these, use a socket extension turned backwards then put an 8 point or 12 point socket on the other end of the extension and turn it with a socket handle or ratchet handle.
Thanks for the tip! Borrowing up my stepfathers toolkit today, as he said he’s got something that’ll fit. I’ll keep this in mind as I’m fiddling with the plug, it is in a rather inconvenient spot.
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2 hours ago, jpage said:
Looks like most of the leak is coming from the rear seal. Does that car have an overdrive in it, as the rear of the transmission looks different? Seals are usually easy to change, but for now just keep an eye on the level. I would recommend using at least a 140wt. gear lube which might ease some of the leakage. I don't think that there is a seal in the front of the transmission, if it's similar to the Dodge unit, but they can leak from the front. Are your u-joints exposed or are they covered with a leather boot?
Yes! The car does have an overdrive, which does add a bit of complexity to the transmission for sure. Comparing diagrams there’s a whole extra one and a half feet of transmission to account for with numerous extra seals, so it’ll certainly be an undertaking down the line. I believe the original manual recommended 90 weight for a overdrive transmission, but I have been told that well used engines and transmissions require different weights than the original specs might suggest.
universal joint is exposed, right at the back of the transmission.
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9 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:
To fill the transmission you need to unscrew the fill plug. If oil drips out you are fine, if you can stick your finger in the hole and touch oil you are fine. Otherwise put in oil until it drips out and put in the plug. This is easier said than done unless you have a pressure fill hose like a garage.
The first thing you need to do, is clean off all the old oil and grease then drive around a bit and see where the leak is coming from. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes you have to start with a clean dry transmission. A spray can of brake clean will make short work of the cleaning process.
It could be something as simple as a loose bolt or fitting. Or it could be a bad seal requiring the trans to come out. Be sure you have the correct grade of oil.
It is even possible the leak is from the engine and is running back onto the trans.
Thanks for the pointer! I hadn’t considered unscrewing the plug, as for some reason I had it in my head that it could only be filled via a pressure system. That should give me the ability to visually check the level. Appreciate it!
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Salutations kind Internet car folks!
I’ll preface this post by saying I’ve never performed an oil change before. Apologies in advance if this is a no-brainer, but I’m new to the hobby!
My 1936 Airstream DeSoto Sedan has a leaky transmission—at the seals on either end it seems from my cursory inspection (This is an issue I knew about when I purchased the car). It’s hard to get a good idea how much leaks, as when it’s sitting it’s just a small pool, but I have the hunch that it leaks significantly more when the oil is warm and the car is moving—but of course it’s hard to monitor a moving car! I don’t currently have the means to have it properly serviced, so for the time being I’m flying blind.
I imagine the car is still perfectly drivable so long as I keep the fluids at a healthy level.
I was planning on draining the fluids and measuring what comes out, to see how far off the capacity it is and then calculate a rough leak rate. Then, proceed to fill it up and “top it off” every so often to compensate for the loss.
My questions would be:
-Can you overfill a transmission with fluid, is this easy to accidentally do? (My plan would’ve been to just keep filling the car to “capacity” every so often, but I figure there’s more space in the recess for oil than is required).
-Is there a dependable way to check fluid levels besides draining?
-What would be your suggestion to dealing with this issue?So far, I’ve clambered under the car to check where the transmission oil drain and fill plugs are, as well as where a bulk of the oil leaks to and placed a dish under to measure the amount while the car sits.
As with anything, I’m sure my specific car would change any usual procedure, but a general suggestion is highly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for taking the time to share your knowledge with a newbie, I’ll take any tips I can get!
(Attached is a photo of what I believe to be my transmission fill point, as well as some of the leaking seals)
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Appreciate everyone’s thoughts on this topic. Using all your combined wisdom I managed to get everything sorted!
Specialty insurance saved the day. Massive premium but that’s the cost of being a unproven liability!
Just put the plates on the car today! Ready for my first full drive this afternoon, up along a sleepy 1930s state park to an ice cream stall.
It’s been a stressful journey from purchasing to registering but happy it’s in the rear view now.
Thanks to everyone who commented, it’s always exciting seeing a new notification.
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3 minutes ago, TAKerry said:
Im glad its working out for you and sounds like you have a good, intelligent plan of attack. As has been stated above, rules are there for a reason. Things are a bit different with younger generations (no offense meant) than probably what a lot of us are used to. You stated that you dont have a daily driver car and that you make out just fine without one. In my day ( Im almost 60) living in the suburbs a car was necessary. We had ride sharing but it was a buddy that had gas in his car. But you, like a lot of your peers have found a way to make do without. I was selling real estate a few years ago and a 25 year old girl was buying her first house. Although she had the money she had no idea what a walk in bank was. Everything to her was done online. Maybe its time for the insurance companies to look at things more on an individual basis than a broad sweep of the pen.
I’m fortunate enough to have settled down in a small town, nothing is more than an hours walk away at most—and despite the inconvenience at times there is something to be said about enjoying a slower more healthy commute!
I would definitely agree about the insurance companies, it was surprising to me that none of the antique car insurance companies ever bothered to hear my situation, it was a yes or no for eligibility in every case, even the small local insurance brokers are underwritten by the big boys.
When I bought my house at just 21 years old, I had the pleasure of dealing with a local bank. They only have three or four branches, but their small size meant that I was able to sit down with the manager and make my case for why they should trust a twenty something with their money. Thanks to the quality of my character and the vouching of folks in the community I got my mortgage, with little to no credit to speak of! As I under stand it this was how things were in the “old days”. Now if only other institutions in America could still function like that there might be a easier way to get a start on living the American dream, rather than locked out to maintain the bottom line.
That’s the issue with scale I suppose, but I’m lucky enough to live somewhere with some old fashioned community!
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1 minute ago, 60FlatTop said:
Remember, the rules weren't written specifically for you. They were written for those whom came before. Your elders connived, stretched the rules, misinterpreted, or just plain lied to take advantage of the low rates. There are people out there today who buy a 25 year old car, truck, or camper just to get the cheap rate. And you don't have to look very far to find one.
You are young. Start early and learn the rules, follow them. Along with the insurance, pay the proper tax due. Don't start life groveling around begging for a gift tax form or a $100 receipt. In later years you may find it puts you in a group you really don't want to be in.
Couldn’t agree more, I have the innate desire to do the RIGHT things rather than the easiest. I don’t mind paying more, stressing more etc. I’m one of those people who worry about everything and if I was trying to game the system I think I’d probably die of a heart attack just from the guilt and stress xD
It’s unfortunate that there’s people out there who make things harder for the good folks, but that’s life I suppose.
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As an update:
After lots of calling and lots of dead ends, I managed to get a policy offer from progressive through a local firm. The insurance is not specifically antique car insurance, but I don’t consider that a problem. The premium is really rather expensive but for all the reasons that were explained by others it makes sense for someone in my position. Now I haven’t received the insurance card yet, which I am supposed to get today if all things go well, but I’ve already made progress with the notary on registration.
they suggested I register as BOTH normal and antique, and explained that although I technically need to have it inspected, no one will give me a hard time about it between now and when my antique plates are ready in 6 months (Yowch what a long time!). The idea being I can use the modern plates as a temp way to drive the car to get ice cream or go to the state park for the summer rather than have my car sit around during the nice months.
Seems I’m on the right track here, and although things have gotten more expensive than I had anticipated, I’m more than willing to make it work for the sake of being able to enjoy and protect my new pride and joy!
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1 hour ago, jpage said:
Bottom line is that if you are going to use it as a daily driver, in PA, it must be registered as a regular vehicle, which means it will have to pass inspection and be insured. You'd be foolish to just get liability insurance and then risk having an accident that could destroy the car with no coverage . All lights, turn signals will have to be brought up to modern standards and in some areas, it will have to pass a pollution test. As far as I know, there's no way around that. I really think that you'd be further ahead to buy yourself a good modern car as a daily driver as a '36 Desoto, while being a nice car, will not suffice as your only car, both in reliability and traffic speed. These cars can be hard to find parts for and even harder to find someone who will be willing to repair it if it breaks down, unless you are mechanically knowledgeable. Enjoy the car as a hobby car and insure it with one of the collectable car insurance companies. They will give better coverage at a much lower price. As far as PA antique tag restrictions, I found out that they really don't watch that closely, as I used to drive my "A" alot. Then one must ask, define one day a week and you still have to have modern lights to drive at night. Still, one has to follow the guidelines. The state does not limit mileage. I've found that the insurance companies put far more restrictions on the vehicle than the state, including mileage. Where in PA are you located?
Hey there!
Definitely not looking to daily drive a 1930s car for all the reasons you outlined, I just find it rather silly that there’s so many restrictions to protecting it. I don’t mind driving the car very sparingly and having that be enforced, but the idea that somehow not having a modern car titled in my name instantly means I’m going to be using my collector car as some sort of cheap commute workaround is absurd. I’ve been getting around town, to work, on trips, etc perfectly fine without my own vehicle and can continue to do so. So while I understand the reasoning for the various enforcements and eligibility requirements, I am a little frustrated at the extremely limited options I have if I want to be able to enjoy my car as a young person without waiting 2 years, buying a new car, or building/renting a garage.
and to answer your question I’m in McKean County in PA!
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Just now, Jon37 said:
Have you spoken to all the specialty antique auto insurance companies about their requirements? Hagerty? J.C. Taylor? American Collectors Insurance? Grundy? Heacock? Before you make any decisions, be sure you have all the facts in front of you.
There’s some names there I haven’t tried yet, so I’ll def add to my call list for Monday morning. Thank you!
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17 minutes ago, TerryB said:
Does the DeSoto run and drive? Hopefully it came with an owners manual and a shop/repair manual. A MoToRs manual is a good reference too for mechanical knowledge. Your car appeared to be complete so you won’t have to go looking for hard to find parts. Good luck!
Yes, the car does run and drive well, no major operational issues there.
As per your suggestion, I did buy both the owners instruction manual, and the reprint dealers repair/inspection book.
Light bulbs went out just a day after I got the car, but I was assured that the previous owner had outfitted it to take standard 6volt bulbs so it should be a matter of buying and installing those. The horn isn’t working, and I haven’t found anything to tell me why not yet on my cursory inspection. Those two elements would certainly result in a inspection failure, if in fact they won’t be judging the car against modern safety standards.
thanks!
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Just now, TerryB said:
Yes, you are the guy that just bought the 36 DeSoto that has the two tone paint! Congrats! I would try getting insurance though a local broker that writes insurance for multiple companies. They should be able to help you navigate the insurance waters and at least get you something to meet the storage requirements.
Yep that’s me!
I will look into a local broker, we use a tiny firm for my house, and maybe they could help me figure something out.
just a shame to realize I realistically won’t be able to drive my exciting new purchase until I can make enough money to buy an entirely new car just to qualify for the antique registration. Suppose that’s my fault for jumping head-first into a big expensive mess, I had thought I’d done all the research I needed!
That’s life I suppose!
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1 minute ago, rocketraider said:
Insurance is based on zero risk. Insurers simply do not want to pay a claim on anything, is why they strive for zero risk- which I hate to tell 'em, in the modern world that ain't happening. Zero risk is unrealistic at best.
Taylor, what state are you in and what type car is it? Every state has its own insurance regulations. Could you possibly register and insure it as a daily driver till you can figure out what to do? Does seem odd that a storage unit requires a vehicle to be insured as most (here anyway) are metal and concrete i.e. fireproof construction.
Someone here will have an answer to your dilemma.
I’m in Pennsylvania, and my car is a 1936 DeSoto sedan. I wouldn’t mind insuring it as a daily driver (if any insurance company would even be able to offer coverage of a 30’s car for that purpose), but it would need to be inspected as per state law, which the car would most certainly fail spectacularly. It does make things difficult for me.
I suppose I could shop around and try to see about the storage unit, but the question remains about the secondary car requirement.
thanks for your comment!
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Salutations kind Internet car folks!
This is my first topic I’ve posted here on the forums, so bare with me!
I’m a young first-time antique car owner, and I couldn’t be more excited! What I’m not excited about however is insurance.
I am having the hardest time getting my antique (1930s) car insured, as no company seems willing to create a policy for me.
my main issues are that I:
A) Don’t have a second modern car as a daily driver (my partner uses their work vehicle as our commute car, or I walk).
B ) Don’t have a garage to store the vehicle (looking at storage units but they require the car to be insured first!)
I’m sure you can imagine the frustration I’m facing. I can’t register my new old car until it’s insured, and I can’t rent a place to store it until it’s insured as well.
Does this mean that in order to own an (insured) antique car, you must both live in a house with a garage, AND have a daily driver in your own name? Seems rather exclusionary for anyone who happens to buy or inherit a beautiful old car.
I can understand the reason insurers have these requirements, antique cars have special needs after all. But it’s bewildering to me that there’s simply no Avenue to legally and safely operate my car until I somehow can afford to buy a new house and a modern car. It’s depressing really.
appreciate anyone who’s made it this far in this rant of a post. But I figure there’s some wisdom to be shared by you folks that might help a youngster like me decide what to do next.
-Taylor
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1 minute ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
From dowdy to daring:
These pictures show the huge changes in styling
in just a few short years. The first is a 1951 or 1952 DeSoto,
the second is 1955, the third is 1957. What a difference from
today, when a 2015 car may look just like the 2021!
How interesting! I had heard of DeSoto’s failings with marketing the Airflow for a while, in fact, some ads in a 1935 edition of Fortune Magazine that I own seems to hint at the desperation to sell the things. It is interesting to consider aesthetic values when bringing to market what is intended to be a major product. We can look back on it today and commend the high style without being turned away by what would’ve been extremely “futuristic” styling.
I have noticed the conservative/modest trend in DeSoto, heck even their 1937 model feels distinctly simpler than the Airstream. I hadn’t considered that this would’ve been a result of their market failings.
your photo examples definitely show the rise in confidence! The 1957 looks like a artists rendering of a bold new idea, with the 55 appearing to be the palatable presentation of that design. So neat that it’s actually the other way around. Innovation is, after all, the willingness to take risks, and I’m sure we can say as automotive enthusiasts that those risks helped move style and technology forward.
I suppose that’s why cars really encapsulate the best in art and technology, no where else is there such a rapid and future focused development of such a major product, with many competitors looking to outdo eachother and provide the most incredible product to the market.
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27 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
Did you know, Taylor, that there is a National DeSoto Club?
They have about 1000 members nationwide, they say,
and produce a magazine 6 times a year. There almost
certainly wouldn't be a chapter near you, but they put on
a national meet (show) that probably varies in location.
In addition, they have technical advisors for various years
of DeSoto, who will be a big help if you ever have questions.
And the AACA has "regions" (local groups) fairly close to you.
Joining the national AACA, and then one or more of its regions,
means you will have plenty of local activities to enjoy, and meet
fellow antique-car owners near you. Local participation has
greatly enhanced my enjoyment of antique cars.
Wow! What a great resource, I’ll be certain to check it out and introduce myself! It seems that DeSotos, especially those pre-1940 are rather uncommon, so finding some folks with experience and expertise would be really valuable. Definitely more than google could provide!
appreciate the tip!
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2 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
Congratulations on the new old car, Taylor.
I thought the color was attractive and unusual,
as well. It's nice to have cars that are a bit out of
the ordinary, and on-lookers will appreciate seeing
yours at shows.
Don't jump into replacing the interior.
If that is the original interior, it is desirable even if it
is worn. People today appreciate seeing the details
and workmanship of Chrysler Corporation in 1936,
more than Joe's Upholstery shop in 2021.
And any replacement interior must be done in exactly
the same cloth and pattern, or a car owner is spending
money to actually DETRACT from the value of his car.
I've seen many cars of that era with the pleats and padding
too flat, because the shop was accustomed to doing 1960's
cars and didn't know differently. One expert told me that
to redo a large 1933 Buick's seats, door panels, and headliner
properly (maybe more complicated than yours) would be
$5000 for materials and $20,000 in total cost. Taking
short-cuts as some prior owner did was obvious.
So enjoy what you have. Make sure it runs and operates well,
and go out for some drives, and make some memories with
friends and family!
Thank you for your thoughts!
I definitely don’t want to have any of the interior replaced, the actual bench seats, door panels, ceiling etc are all there, just missing some fabric buttons, escutcheons, and there are a couple tears that need careful mending. The most glaring missing area are the posts between the doors, which are entirely missing any sort of finishing. It seems what used to be there was constructed of a heavy cardboard, likely wrapped with fabric or even just painted. Will be doing ample research before I touch anything in a way that would be permanent. A lot of smoke stains, but the seats are in surprisingly good condition and seem rather untouched.
There is something thrilling about seeing the same fabrics, Bakelite, and wood-effect metal as one would’ve on their daily commute circa 1936!
-Taylor
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56 minutes ago, 58L-Y8 said:
Greetings DecoDog!
Congratulations! Its always gratifying to hear about cars we've featured on here that have found new, enthusiastic, appreciative owners. Your 1936 DeSoto Airstream has more great Art Deco details and features than most any other car then, its line-mate Airflow does as well. Ray Dietrich, the famous designer/custom coach-builder, was when your car was styled leading the Chrysler Art & Color Styling Department, certainly had a great deal to do with your DeSoto's design. Best of luck with your new acquisition and please keep us apprised of your progress and experiences with it. Let the DeSoto adventures begin!
Steve
Well golly! Thanks a ton for the warm welcome and giving me some info to chew on in regards to Ray Dietrich, surprisingly hadn’t heard the name before but on a cursory google I’m astounded at how prolific he was in automotive design.
It’s funny, I have told everyone who has stopped to chat about my new auto that it’s a “Art Deco sculpture that happens to double as a car!” And that’s definitely the case!
Will be sure to post photos as I bring the car back up to a more presentable condition, the interior is original but definitely tired, so that’s where I’ll be starting (and probably consulting some folks on these forums for pointers!)
So excited to begin my antique car journey, heck even sitting in the backseat and listening to period music or reading fills my cup.
Thanks again!
-Taylor
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Salutations! Not sure if anyone is still follows this thread, but I’m the proud new owner of this very DeSoto!
Made a profile on the site to find any tidbits about my new car, as well as connect with other DeSoto owners. To my surprise, I found my own car being discussed.
Bought the car a couple weeks ago, drove 5 hours from PA to take a look at it. Its been really fun reading the discussions about it here. In my personal taste, the color of the car is absolutely perfect—in fact, it’s one of the aspects that initially drew my eye.
The purchase was the fulfillment of a lifelong dream to own a mid 1930s car, and being an Art Deco fanatic, it’s amazing to have one that is simply brimming with stunning design elements.
Anyone who has experience with these cars are welcome to reach out, I could certainly use all the knowledge I can collect!
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Keeping up with a leaky transmission, newbie question. . .
in Technical
Posted
Some great insight here. I was confused when I replaced the oil to find that the car isn’t leaking anymore, at least not in a way that leaves a puddle right away like it used to. Oil was milky and dark when I drained it from the transmission, so I’m assuming it was well past it’s point of usefulness. New oil in the transmission seems to have either softened the seals again as you suggested, or the oil weight is better suited than the previous owner had installed.