Drakeule
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Posts posted by Drakeule
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All:
I took JohnD's advice and adjusted (i.e., bent) the fuel sender arm; it now appears to read more accurately. However, it still seems to read a bit low (4 gal vs. 6 gal "actual".)
I put that last in quotes, as I am not sure exactly how much gas is presently in the tank; when I emptied it, I found that there were still about 2 gals. left (I couldn't get the last bit out.)
Now, I know I should have measured more accurately upon putting the gas back in....so, as to the tank currently available on Ebay (which the previous owner installed) what is -or should be-the capacity?
If it is truly 20.0 gal., then I am indeed still reading low (by about 2 gal., I estimate.) I guess the best thing to do is redrain the tank to absolute empty (I'll need a better siphon than just a gravity flow version.) This should let me know the exact amount.
If, (upon refilling to an exact amount) it is still not accurate, I've hit upon the idea that I can add just a small resistor (maybe 4-6 ohms) in series. this may adjust to a more accurate reading. I've already tried this and it indeed affects the gauge, moving it to a fuller reading. Of course, this would be assuming that the gauge is reading in a linear manner....
Any input appreciated.
CD
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Wrote to the maker, and there is a very small "trim pot" (potentiometer adjusted with a phillips head) in the box; adjusting it CW brings down the distortion. However, you need to play with it to get good results: what is good for device streming may not be the best for your MP3/CD player.
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Bully for the man from Texas ! (Mattie Ross, True Grit.)
Thanks,
CD
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Does anybody know what size white walls would have been an option for the stock 7.60 X 15 tires on a '60 Invicta?
Also, it specifies a 5.5 X 15 "L" wheel as stock("K" optional.) What does the letter signify?
Thanks in advance,
CD
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Rodney (AKA Mate):
The guy is the video is the one who disconnected the rear cigar lighter. Good point!
Thanks,
CD
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BTW; it appears that there is a decent (i.e., has a hollow float) sender available for '61-64 Buicks on Ebay. Anybody know if this would fit a '60 gas tank?
Asking for an adversary (ha ha!)
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Funny; they are accurate enough to have secret police stations in NYC. However, most all Buicks are here in the USA.So there's that.....
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All:
I just installed the "Mobilemitter" from Resto Radio in my '60. It appears to work ;however, you need to fiddle with the volume on your streaming device/CD/MP3 player and the radio's volume,as it seems to overmodulate(i.e., distort) the sound somewhat.
Installation is pretty straightforward; I spliced into the glove box light for my 12V source,as this is where I also put the small approx. 1"x1" bluetooth transmitter and my CD player; the 4'x2"x2.5 inch box I installed under the fascia below the glove compartment. As it was super light, I secured it with a zip tie.
I also bought the FM transmitter option; I'll try that tomorrow.
CD
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All:
Support for this has been great; much better than I expected; many thanks to all.
Here is a picture
of "Guido."
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I have a 1960 Invicta in what I think is wonderful unrestored shape. I would like to enter it in the original unrestored class at Hershey. Is this possible?
The AACA judging guidebook reads like stereo instructions; likewise, much of the chatter I've seen is equally as confusing!
Awaiting attacks by people in the know....
Thanks in advance,
CD
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All:
This just happened to my '60 Invicta (If interested,see my post on heater box disassembly on this site.) IMHO, that heater box removal was anything but easy; but then this was my first time!
I bought a NOS non-Ranco valve (Everhot) on Ebay. Before I put it back in the car, I had my radiator guy test the valve in place with the core. All okay. For now,at least....
Guy at Smitty's (Landover, Md.) said he can rebuild some valves, but he said he could not rebuild this Harrison, because he couldn't get the plunger.
Well. if this one goes prematurely ,at least I'm an old hand at heater box removal!
CD
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I bought one of these on Ebay; will let everybody know how it works.
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Lee:
Great idea, thanks. The only drawback is the size. I'm going to contact them and get the dimensions.
CD
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I am considering putting Bluetooth in my Invicta. However, I don't want to hog up my prefectly working radio.
I'm looking for a 1960 Sonomatic (Mdl # 980051), but previous/later ones may work too. Anybody have one?
Thanks,
CD, Potomac, Md.
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Just had my broker lower to 16K.
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Morgan:
Most all has been said, and most eloquently.
Affix the half smile of the Buddha on your face, and remember: "some days you are the bug, some days the windshield."
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Selling my '40 Super. Nice repaint; French-English/Luddington green. I redid the front seat; has rust in both front boxes (not structural.) Some chrome redone.
I have it FS @18K on CL, but will consider reasonable offers.
I also have a '40 RM Sport coupe, and just acquired a '60 Invicta Sedan, so this one needs to go.
Charlie Drake, Potomac, Md. (301) 346-6548
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Finished produce, Glad it's over!
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All:
Yesterday, I affected the seat belt installation in my '60 Invicta. No picnic, but doable, especially since there was a you tube video (see below.) I did not have to remove the bench seat,like the guy did in the video.
The most difficult part was working the belt through the crack between the bench and backrest. I very carefully pushed a large bladed screwdriver into the separation, then worked it past the springs until I felt it poke against the bench vinyl.Then, I made a slit in the vinyl. I tried unsuccessfully to pull a wire with the seat belt attached through the springs. Finally, I was able to work the attachment itself through, using just both hands' fingers. I had to work past batting and the springs, but eventually was able to pull it through.
Drilling and attaching the belts was not fun either; probably not much different than on most other models.
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All:
As promised, I wanted to give steps on disassembly of the heater box , as I feel the manual does not explain it very well.
First, access the air inlet assembly on the passenger side of the firewall (picture in manual.) Remove the air flow control assembly (first pic below), with its vacuum hose and electrical connections. Now is a good time to remove the heater hoses too.
The box itself is removed with 6 nuts, exposing the heater core to you. Next, go inside the car and remove the valance (2 screws on either end come out and just loosen the 3 on the bottom of the dash; unit sides to the side to come out.) You the can drop the metal heater box by taking the driver side screw out (hard to get to, back behind the box and cables.) Notice my last picture of the opposite end of the box. It is supposed to fasten to the firewall, but that notch is NOWHERE NEAR the tapped hole! So, it doesn't actually hold the heater box to the firewall.
Go figure!
Now, you have to dissconnect the heater control valve (accessed by the little door on the face of the box.) The control cable for the defroster (on top) and the rear heater duct assembly (on the floor, held by 2 screws) needs to come out too. Lastly, disconnect the defroster hoses (no fun, they get stuck.) Take out the monstrosity called the heater box.
I highly suggest that you peel the passenger side carpet back and remove the jute underlayment, then place old towels and /or plastic, as the coolant will drip out.
You are now looking at the heater box (pic 5.) Remove the box from the heater core frame by 8-10 small sheet metal screws (I removed these while the box was under the dash, but I didn't know any better; so much for Buick's great [i.e., lack of] directions!) Frame is removed from the core itself by 4 screws (pic 4.)
Picture 3 is the core in all its glory,with valve attached; 3 small screws and it's off. NOTE: you must use a new O ring with the new (or rebuilt) heater valve, or it will leak.
My replacement was an Everhot from Ebay .It didn't look exactly the same, but it works. There are rebuild services available; I just didn't want to wait!
Hope this helps. Feel free to write me with questions if you are blessed enough to have to do this, ha ha. The Buick manual instructions now make perfect sense to me.... now that I've done it!
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BTW, I will keep the rebuild man's number handy; I don't plan on parting with my OEM Harrison valve any time soon!
And thanks to all about cleaning the rug and jute; That Bissell maching appears to work well to clean the carpet. I just inundated the jute with a hose and then several buckets of soapy warm water. I stomped out as much
excess water as I could and hung them up like wet clothes to dry.
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All:
I got an Everhot heater valve from Ebay; my radiator guy tested all and I am in the process of putting it back in the car and documenting as I go.
Like I said before, the normally-good directions from the Buick manual seemed lacking to me; I had to figure out what they were talking about as I went along.
I think I'll put this under a new thread.
CD
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Called Heatervalves.com Has not returned my call.
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Started to gurgle, then spew out on my beautiful OEM carpet! Could be the valve and/or the core. Any advice on removal of same?
Anybody know about replacements,or have a NOS valve or core available?
Guess just working out the bugs....
P.S. best way to get the coolant out of the carpet?
C Drake, Potomac, Md.
of "Guido."
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1960 Buick gas tank leak-where?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
WW:
What an interesting concept; pre saged the idiot "low fuel" light Gotta' love those old Buick engineers!