68LTD
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Posts posted by 68LTD
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Anyone recommend a good source for car paint?? My local paint place has been semi helpful but seems to have high prices for the quarts/gallons.
Thnx TP in Va
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2 thoughts: use Evans coolant that can run with -0- lb cap. Get a digital torque wrench, I will never use a clicker again. Pricey but worth it.
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On vacation last week in beautiful Switzerland, walking back from dinner, saw this beauty. Not sure it belongs to anyone here, but great to see older American cars out and about cross the pond. Had quite the appreciative crowd around it.
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an obvious thought here, maybe put in a totally separate latch, with its own cable or rod. Hood opening on the road is never a good thing.
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Well, at about 1600 miles. slight leak started, my lil red silicon gap filler was blown out. I will share pics of next revision....and I will continue to look for high temperature urethanes that could be used to 3D print a proper size donut. But maybe 1200-1400 miles will be several years for you.
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Retired, so no commute. Been to Spring Charlotte AACA twice, nice. Thnx
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Agree, NO HOA!! We moved 1.5 miles down the road for that reason some 30 years ago.
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Or, draw up the needed pulley and have machine shop make one. maybe 2 piece, with center being steel with its lower thermal expansion. If you need help, let me know.
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Maybe get 2 pulleys, one having correct 5/8 bore, other having the correct dual groove, have local shop cut on lathe, weld the 2 together. I did this for my 57 Cad ac install years ago, worked out nice.
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The 006 / 008 are likely good, but I would recommend starting with .010/.015, better to be loose than tight.
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I might be moving to Raleigh NC in year or 2. Several questions for any Raleigh folks:
-I like to drive some nice curvy country rods. Which areas have the best roads??
-Which counties are less particular about detached garages or standalone decks??
-Are there weekend car cruises for the old American car crowd??, vs the BMW / rice burner crowd.
-I assume there is an active AACA regional group.
Thnx all. Thomas P in VA 66 and 68 XL convertibles, 68 LTD
Send me a private message if you prefer to talk, I am not long winded…
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Couple of thoughts, why still use the mech pump?? Your return line goes back to the feed line from the tank, would it be better to have its own tube back into the filler neck or top of tank, with some small restriction to maintain good supply to carb. ?? I have installed some 8 red Holley pumps without return line, no issues, but these have been on 1955 and newer v8's, none use the mech pump. All have clear filter near carb to see if fuel is indeed in the line.
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Update : My attempt is to use a smaller donut, slice it, work it over the inner stub pipe, fill the gap with high temp silicon, let it dry, tighten, ....has lasted 1200 miles so far, seems good, I have not crawled under to check torque on studs, but sounds fine. Happy camper.
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for your viewing pleasure...
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The Alexandria VA Christmas Scottish Parade is under new management, and I am being told that despite our past involvement of having our old rides in the parade, I now have to be in one of the participating clubs. But what exact club!!!
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Thnx Bob, I might do the same.
I see my problem - the short stub pipe Waldrons puts in is not expanded to be the proper diameter for a good grip on the donut's inside diameter. I bought a short section from another supplier (stevetrekker) on eBay, that has the correct expansion. , see pic.
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Not sure about new laws, my 1970 Impala ran great, but failed emissions test, this was back in 1990. I did a complete tune-up (plugs , wires, points, cap, filter etc) and new timing chain.
Passed. I wonder if the emission 'parts' look corect, and passes, do they care if the 'parts' are functioning.
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Agree with Grimy. My 57 Cadillac would go into 4th at about 25 mph.
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My 66 Galaxie 390 has continual issue with the passenger side exhaust donut leaking after some 500 miles. I tighten it up, and in some 500 miles, leaks again!! At 1500, need replacing. I suspect the major issue is the donut I get is about .08" to large to fit snuggly around the inner stub pipe. So tightening the 2 nuts only mutilates the donut. My current attempt is to use a smaller donut, slice it, work it over the inner stub pipe, fill the gap with high temp silicon, let it dry, tighten, hope for 600 miles!!
I would have a proper sized donut machined from copper, but that may not seal very good.
Any thoughts??
Tom in VA
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just checking...
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That sucks, hope your wheel bearing gets fixed by then Wayne.
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My thought, never exercised, get a nice cotton/fleece inner-lined cover (made to fit), then a second heavy waterproof cover, then many straps/tape/wrap. California Car Cover has a great indoor cover, cotton/fleece lined. Good luck.
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Agree, pics and more info would be nice, but I say the 71 is some 10-12, 69 same.
Sanding thru high build primer??
in General Discussion
Posted
yea me again, once the high build primer is on, and follow up block sanding, if there is some sand thru, is that a psychical problem, or just cosmetic?? I can live with cosmetic, I am very realistic and not expecting perfection, thnx