W Ranard
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Posts posted by W Ranard
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Would you happen to have a Splitdorf Model D?
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Looks very nice. Thanks for posting your journey!
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I won't be at Hershey this year. Can you give width and height dimensions and a photo?
Thanks.
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I used PPG 71791 Regency Red which is a 1976 Jaguar color. It is on a 1909 Mason and the color is the closest match to the original color "Red Wine". I had a rear wheel with some loose spokes and decided it was time to replace the wheels before something catastrophic happened. I have seen too many pictures of cars after the spokes have broken and I didn't want to risk of damaging the car or causing personal injury. The car was painted a bright red in the 1950s and I made the decision to paint the wheels the original color. I am glad I did since we really like the new color too.
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I have not contacted Noah Stutzman since Feb 2021. Although I would not say he is hard to contact, he didn't answer the phone. I always left a message and he returned my call. Noah gave me a tour of his shop when I picked up my wheels and I am very impressed with his work. He also makes wood steering wheels and the examples he had looked very nice. I would not hesitate to have him make my wheels.
I attached a photo of one of the finished wheels.
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Al, I did something similar last year to paint my new wood wheels from Stutzman with a HVLP gun. I used 5/8 inch diameter 1045 bar and turned 8 inches of threads on one end of each bar for the hub. I cut the shafts to length, milled a flat and used a coupling to mount to the motor on the other end. Since I wanted to leave the bearing races in the hubs, I purchased rubber stoppers that were the appropriate diameter to fit in the race from each side. After punching holes in the stoppers, I used washers and a 7/16 nut on each side of the hub so I could squeeze the stoppers to hold the wheel on the shaft. This worked well and the wheel did not spin on the shaft. I found a double shafted, high torque motor on Amazon so I could use one motor for 2 wheels. I wanted to use 12V so I wouldn’t have as much risk of a spark when painting. I was unsure what speed would work and guessed at 5 RPM which was OK but I would have preferred it be a little slower. They had various speeds available and now I would use the 3 RPM if I was buying them again. The motor has a gearbox and they gave specs for the torque which I calculated would work for my weight of wheels. The motor I used from Amazon was: “uxcell Double Shaft Worm Gear Motor DC 12V 5RPM High Torque Speed Reduction Motor with Metal Gearbox”. I used pillow blocks to support the shafts on a wood frame which was mounted to my work stands. I found it was a fun project to build and I am planning to use them again when I have Stutzman make another set of wheels for my other car.
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Pre10 - Did you make the ball or the nut? I am wondering about the nut. Thanks.
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Thank you for the feedback.
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The nut in the photo has cracks and needs to be replaced. I am looking for information on what others have done to replace these nuts. The nut is 1-7/16 inch across the flats and the ball is 1-1/8 inch diameter. Although I am not sure of the original material, it appears to be a machined casting. Are these nuts available anywhere? I can have it machined out of 1045 (not heat treated) but am not sure if this will stand up. Any help will be appreciated.
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I just bought a 1 hp 1725 rpm Grizzly buffer that has long shafts. I really like it.
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I sent you a pm about the 1910 Maytag.
Does anyone know where Joel Naive’s 1932 Auburn ended up? Or his other cars?
in Auburn Cord Duesenberg (ACD)
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The 1910 Maytag is in the Antique Car Museum of Iowa located in Coralville, IA. You can see some videos of it on the museum webpage.