Minimarvel
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Posts posted by Minimarvel
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Yes... I think I maybe following 2 paths but indeed one of them is normal... Turning the wheels makes the governor click.
The noise is when driving but also when stationary... I am going to check touque convertor bolts and flex plate... Just to be sure..
Many thanks indeed..
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Thanks Jack... I think we are going to do this. We discussed today that the only way to check is to pull the pan and have a look.
Sometimes the noise disappears... Really strange problem...
Kindest Regards
David
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Yep..but why also when turning rear wheels in neutral... Engine not running. I thought it wouldn't turn torque convertor in this state... But I'll check.. Thank you
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Thanks but can't be the uj as does it when stationary...
Strange one indeed...
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Thanks guys.... But the ticking is there when the gearbox is in neutral and turning the wheels without the engine running...
I didn't think the torque conveyor would even move in this condition... But I will check...
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Riviera 1965 with the 3 speed TH400 transmission. When driving I noticed a tapping noise.. Engine linked as increases with engine speed... Sounds exactly like a tappet noise.... But it isn't...
It's coming from the gearbox. Sometimes it goes away. It's there while driving or in park and increases as the engine revs... Can't hear it at idle.
Jacked up a rear wheel and put gearbox in neutral engine stopped and turned the raised wheel... There is the tapping noise again from inside the Gearbox.... Any ideas?
Car drives well, changes gear fine, oil levels good, fluid clean.
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Riviera 1965 with the 3 speed TH400 transmission. When driving I noticed a tapping noise.. Engine linked as increases with engine speed... Sounds exactly like a tappet noise.... But it isn't...
It's coming from the gearbox. Sometimes it goes away. It's there while driving or in park and increases as the engine revs... Can't hear it at idle.
Jacked up a rear wheel and put gearbox in neutral engine stopped and turned the raised wheel... There is the tapping noise again from inside the Gearbox.... Any ideas
Car drives well, changes gear fine, oil levels good, fluid clean.
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You guys are hilarious....
Why is there only one Monopolies commission.....
I read this morning that one of the first signs of the COVID-19 virus is a lack of taste.....I must have had it for years then
judging by many of my ex's....
On a more serious note....The temp gauge I bought I wanted to hide and not spoil the look of the dash, hence put it in the glovebox
but then stupid unless you drive around with the door open. The one I got allows you to adjust the colour of the display to match the instrument lighting
which is nice, but also allows you to set a point that if it ever reaches sounds an alarm.....which would then be the time to open the said door and monitor.
thus you only have to set that point once irrespective if F or C . Mine never goes above 86 deg C thus I have it set at 92 , so about 198 F
Best
Dave
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Haha,
That is exactly the one I bought. Works a treat....need to make the holes bigger but now you have an adjustable
vac actiuator...that you can set at half open by default if you wish....
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Verde Green... Or some back-street interpretation of it at least..
As I said.... We can fix it...
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Yes.... And one of very few in the UK...
I did the same.... Put mine in the glove box, but it has an alarm you can set.... If it goes past 90c it howls at me....
Hot and cold lights just not enough considering the cost of repair for 7 litres of ancient petrol guzzler....
Bought blind.... A mess in many areas. Horrid repairs, many areas are polished turds.... But we have the power to fix it... Thick metal helps.
Looking better daily.
Oh and did I mention... Working Air con...
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Lovely pic...
I have cold air.... Turns out one of the 2 port valves that I bought for a million dollars was duff.
Bought a very nice single port, polished alloy from ebay for £13.00 looks the part and works brilliantly.
Fast powerful and used normally for waste gates on VW/Audi.
No I don't have half open doors... But who cares... It works.
Have a great evening Bob...
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Sorry you must be mistaken...
I don't know a Bob...
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And me.... I am an electronic design engineer... Not a refrigeration engineer. But I have a great friend that is.... Designs the cooling systems to test aviation fuel at extreme temperatures.
He has modified my 65 to work just like a modern car.
Cabin Thermostat hidden etc. Works great.
1st World problem I guess for a car that is seldom driven... In the UK where it is cold most of the time...
Best
Dave
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My only comment would be.... They don't use modulated Vacuum Stv valves anymore because they don't have to. Technically it's a horrid system. Full Thermostat control is always going to be a better option.
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9 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Vacuum helps pull some initial charge into the system but it is necessary to put a jumper across the low pressure switch, cycling switch, etc... to reach the low pressure threshhold...unless using a charging station with a heated blanket to raise pressure in the charging tank or if one cares to spend all morning charging the system.
Tom
Quite correct Tom, but just did mine from empty. Ambient temp was 6 deg C. Vac the system for 30 minutes and it took enough charge to trigger low pressure switch. Took about 30 minutes to fill to optimum... No bubbles in site glass either... So wasn't necessary to bypass switch or heat bottle (blowtorch comes in handy sometimes because we always forget the blanket...
Tested system with nitrogen first to 150psi.
All looks good...
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Vacuum..... And then the system will take over....
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21 minutes ago, Turbinator said:
Vintage Air in Florida advertises they rebuild STV’s. I’m going to try one last time now that I know how to flush ALL the right components and what not to flush. Putting on O rings with PAG oil is another thing I learned. Keep it clean. Evacuate the system to hopefully 28” of mercury. If the vacuum holds a couple of days there are probably no leaks. Take it step farther and I use dry nitrogen to check for leaks if the vacuum doesn’t hold. Different tools simple and sophisticated are available to find leaks.Charging the system with R12 from a large 30lb pound container will be a new adventure. I’ve got a digital scale, so should be a piece of cake. But then, I might get someone to charge the system that has a lot of experience. A man has to know his limits at certain times.Turbinator
I modified the Stv to a, switch. It seems to work fine and certainly enough for a weekend car....
Many old Rolls Royce had exactly the same STV system and I have not seen one that wasn't converted for decades. Sometimes originality has it's limits.
Ergonomics before aesthetics...
No point having a, system that works well for a, short time.
My AirCon guy.... Who really is the best in the business... Says the electronic way is more reliable...
The number 1 mod that needs doing is putting a pressure switch in the circuit to ensure the clutch never comes in if the system runs out of coolant.
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And that is sad.... In the name of profit...
A good restorer I know, only restores aircraft now because he says the quality and integrity of restoration parts for automotive is such rubbish. We keep saying China makes rubbish... But many of these parts are "proudly made in the USA"...
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Thank you again Gentlemen... It's getting clearer.... Just confused why they sell an expensive 2 port unit to replace the original that actually does nothing that a single port unit does..... And sell it as a replacement with no explanation of how it works and more importantly... How it doesn't and can't work.
Thanks again
Dave
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Thank you Jim.... But can you confirm... You are speaking about the original actuators or the new ones from old air parts?
Thanks
Dave
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10 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:
The 2-port actuators are also 2-position units.
If you apply vacuum to the outer port only, the diaphragm will pull the actuator only 1/2 way in. For the actuator on the plenum on the firewall under the hood, this will split output air half way between the dash vents and the floor heater vents.
If you apply vacuum to both ports, the actuator will retract fully. This will put all of the output air out the dash vents.
If you only apply vacuum to the inner port, you will find that it does not hold vacuum and the actuator does not move. You think the actuator is bad but it is not.
The double diaphragm mounted under the fan box controls air recirculation. If the actuator is not retracted, you get 100% recirc of inside air into the heater-A/C. This is OK for A/C but you will fog up in the winter with the heat on like this. You need outside air.
If you apply vacuum to both ports under the fan box, you draw in 100% fresh air. Best for anything but maximum A/C.
If you do not connect a vacuum hose to a port, plug it with a golf tee. You can't have a vacuum leak in the system or it will not work right.
I test all actuators with a hand held vacuum pump to troubleshoot.
65 Riv TH400.. Clicking... Tapping transmission. HELP....!
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Wow... Thank you.... Lots of work to do next week
Really grateful
Regards to you
David