Senbotsu
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Posts posted by Senbotsu
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On 6/11/2022 at 5:03 PM, Matt Harwood said:
Perhaps your upholsterer could offer some options?
It may come to that, but that would be a last resort as the interior is the original interior from 1935. It would be a shame to mess with it if I can avoid it, but it would also be a shame to not be able to safely drive it, too.
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Interior still looks the same, hehe. I'm fairly certain that I've got the seat all the way back (it's back about an inch past the fixed edge. But between my size 18 feet and long legs it's a challenge to get into and drive. This is as far back as I can get the seat to go:
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3 hours ago, AB-Buff said:
Matt Harwood has the same model as yours. I’m not sure how tall Matt is, I think that’s interesting I have a 35 LeBaron coupe and I have the seat all the way forward and I wish I could move it a couple of inches further forward. I am 5 foot 10. You would think they would have the same amount of room in each one.
LynnI've noticed that pre-war cars vary wildly in leg & head room. The few Pierce Arrow's I have sat in were comfortably roomy for the driver. I tried sitting in a Ford Model A once. Forget about it, there's about as much room in those as a tiny little austin healey, lol.
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On 6/7/2022 at 7:43 PM, AB-Buff said:
You might want to get a hold of Ray Theriault. I had talk to him about this car. He knows some history about it. If you do not have Ray’s contact information please send me a PM and I will give it to you. I hope you enjoy that beautiful Lincoln!
Lynn
It's a beautiful car, but a little hard to drive. At 6'6" it has even less legroom than my '39 buick roadmaster. I would kill to be able to move the front seat back about 4 inches, but I don't think that's an option.
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I have recently acquired this beautiful specimen of a 2 window model K that still has its original nearly pristine interior. However I did have one important question that the seller did not know the answer to, and I can't find in the paperwork. Did this 414 V12 use flat or roller tappets? I know rollers have been around since 1930, and I would expect a high end luxury car like the K to use the more expensive rollers and not flat tappets, but I wanted to make sure so that I can follow the proper maintenance to keep it running great.
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Thanks a lot for all the help! After a few misses, Dave was the 'magic man.' He had an entire transmission, and it just arrived today! Going to get it to the auto shop tomorrow so they can get my baby back on the road. So happy!
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On 8/3/2020 at 5:01 PM, Dave_B said:
Did you try Dave Tachney? He might have a transmission. Call between 5 and 7 pm. He doesn't do email. 763-427-3460
Dave
Dennis didn't pan out, so I'm going to try Dave tomorrow. What time zone is he in?
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On 8/8/2020 at 9:34 AM, Gene Brink said:
If all else fails, and assuming you have the old gear [or enough of it] to take measurements you can have a duplicate made by any number of precision gear manufacturers. Here is one and if they can not help perhaps can refer you http://www.amgear.com/specialty-gears.html. Won't be cheap but... Good luck.
That's another route I was considering. This place called rushgears.com does a lot of one-off gear fabrications, so I may go that route if I can't find a NOS/lightly used replacement part. The existing gear is just missing enough teeth to kick out of gear if you don't hold it in second, but not so many that it fails to stay meshed if you hold it.
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37 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Try
DME, 625 Forest Hills Road, Forest Hills, KY.
Dennis C. Maroudas, Owner
606 237 6648
dmellc@suddenlink.net
Ben
Thanks! I shot him an email. Here's hoping it bears fruit!
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Anyone have any leads on where to get a replacement 2nd gear (or whole transmission) for the 81? Mine has been sitting in the transmission shop for a year now with no luck sourcing a part. The mechanic is going to keep looking for a few more months before giving up, which probably means having to replace the original engine and transmission which I really really don't want to do.
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As is often the case when restoring old classics, I'm looking for unicorns again. Hoping someone on here has a lead on mechanical hardware for the rear window vents. The ones that slide backwards into the body. My mechanic says the hardware is too shot to even rebuild. We've had no luck finding the crank assemblies so far.
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Makes me wonder if my '39 model 81 is missing some trunk components. Mine has no springs and only one sliding lock bar on the left side that operates as expected. (holds trunk door open, lift trunk door slightly to disengage locking mechanism.) But the trunk will drop hard if you don't lower it by hand.
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8 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:
I’m in the market for one of those standard bumper guards myself. For now I’m just not putting them on. One by itself obviously looks completely silly.
The only set I've found so far was over at 2040 parts website:
http://www.2040-parts.com/39-buick-bumper-guard-set-1939-original-gm-parts-i688712/
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25 minutes ago, Grimy said:
I think Restoration Supply in SoCal www.restorationstuff.com offers them. You'll probably find a vendor with them at the Turlock swap meet the last Saturday in January. If you're a stickler for authenticity, your Buick (and other GM cars) had an *adjustable* frame which was reproduced some time ago, but I no longer recall by whom. Try Cadillac repro sources for the adjustables. Perhaps someone here will know.
Perfect, they had 2 nice slim bordered 14" wide chrome frames. Thanks for the help! Google search was being uncooperative and kept sending me to places that only sold modern frames >_<
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ACK! The world's fair license plates just arrived and I forgot that these old plates were 2" wider than modern plates. Wonder if anyone still makes nice chrome frames for 14" plates.
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1 hour ago, BuickBob49 said:
Boyer's Restorations of Hanover, PA, may be able to help you with reproduction maroon plastic pieces for your interior, including the one for the center of your steering wheel. I need to see if they have the little spear-like inserts for a few of my window cranks.
I also see that you have the correct ash receiver/lady's compact holder for the left rear armrest. Cool! You're just missing the plastic cover.
Do you have the three uprights for the rear bumper? The middle one will drop down to allow access to the trunk.
That would be nice. I'd love to restore the column properly and fix whatever the previous wingnut did wrong. EG: the horn still works only because it's wired to a push button under the dash now.. WTF?! It really needs the chrome horn ring to look right, too. (easy enough to source, but I'll let a professional fix the wiring issue and figure out why the turn signals don't work at the same time. The light indicator on the shift lever flashes, and I can hear the rhythmic 'click click' inside the dash, but nothing from the front or rear lights. Checked the bulbs, all the filaments are intact.)
Even have the cigarette lighters for both front and back sockets, but unfortunately there's no power to either socket so that's another item I need to have looked at.
I have two uprights on the back bumper, with no bolt hole for a center connection. I also need to have the left side upright re-chromed:
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2 hours ago, kingrudy said:
I moved out of California two years ago. This is a sore topic of conversation with me as I was paying $153 a year for regular license plates. I could afford it, but this was the lowest fee that the DMV could charge and my contention was that people that had very little money would be impacted by this. My 1940 Buick went from $49 to $78 to $153. Beautiful state, but taxes are out of control.
I love your car, can't wait to see it when it's all cleaned up.
Yeah California has a lots of sore spots for me. If almost all of my family wasn't here I'd have run screaming from this state long ago.
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1 hour ago, Grimy said:
Senbotsu, I rely on California Vehicle Code (CVC) Section 5004 (f) [a copy carried with my registration and insurance documents] which reads:
"(f) As used in this section, a vehicle is of historic interest if it is collected, restored, maintained, and operated by a collector or hobbyist principally for purposes of exhibition and historic vehicle club activities."
I read principally as 51%, although DMV requires you to sign a (ridiculous) certification that the car will be used "exclusively" for such activities. The CVC is enacted by the legislature and is the basis for DMV's authority, and the legislative intent is clear in its term principally. Although I don't think this issue has ever been tested in the courts, I've been willing to try for 20 years but have never been stopped or questioned. I know of only one case, in which a 1933 Pierce owner was stopped and warned (but not ticketed) in his home town of Los Altos. I suppose it also depends on your local PD/SO as you allude.
I carry my own copy because often officers, especially motorcycle officers, carry an abridged vehicle code which may not contain this section.
However, on cars such as my Jeepster, which I drive around town more, I retain the black plates rather than to save a few bucks. For some of my Pierces, it's much more than a "few" bucks.
That's a good idea. I paid a very reasonable price for the Buick, so I think I'll still use the world's fair plates just for the cool factor. I figure I'll have to dump at least $10k more into it before it's completely restored to a level worthy of being a show car, but that won't reflect on registration fees at least
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2 hours ago, Grimy said:
Senbotsu, you may not be as "happy" when you find out that The Pipples' Republik of Caleeforneeya charges you full ad valorem registration on YOM (Year of Manufacture) plates and/or conventional plates, vs. $2 ad valorem if you opt for Historic Vehicle (HV) plates. This is based on the purchase price you declare under oath when you transfer the vehicle into your name, and drops 5% per year for the first ten years.
Most of us Californians use HV plates and then (unlawfully) put the YOM plate on the front--and maybe add the other one to the rear for shows and tours. A car I paid $90K for had a $550 annual reg fee until I changed it to HV plates--and that was 12 years ago before the recent drastic increase in fees..
If this isn't impactful to you, more power to you!
Enjoy the car--it's wonderful!
I thought about it but historic plates come with restrictions on where/when you can drive the vehicle. I have heard from others that those restrictions are generally ignored by officers. Unfortunately I live dangerously close to a county that is starving for revenue and the local constabulary are notorious for salivating at the chance to nail you for anything they can. So after consulting an attorney I decided that while I dislike giving this state any more money than I absolutely have to, I don't relish risking a $10,000 fine and a potential felony (violation of VC 4463 - vehicle registration fraud, is a wobbler in california) just because I want to dress up and drive the Buick to a blues concert or take the better half wine tasting 😃
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Yours looks quite beautiful! I haven't even had a chance to register mine yet, so no plates, but I did get my hands on a set of 1939 California World's Fair license plates that the plate number is not in use, so DMV is allowing me to register the car under that number and use the plates. *happy*
On mine I really want to ditch the non-stock front uprights and go back to the simple 3 uprights like yours has, I think it looks cleaner.
It's a bit of a struggle to drive right now. I think I need to see if someone can lower the clutch and brake pedal position by about half. I'm 6'6" and it's a real knee-bangin' good time shifting and braking, lol.
I love the car though, and my significant other said it looks like the grinch mobile because the person who did the original restoration really went crazy with the non-stock green theme. The interior is dark and pale green.
Here's some more pictures I took today during a break in the rain, after fixing the fuel pump issue (And sorry it's really dusty, it arrived that way and until it stops raining I don't want to go out there with my vacuum kit and detail the car like it deserves):
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Thanks! The plate was in surprisingly good condition, and the car isn't the original black anymore, but the green paint is an 'old enamel paint' according to my body shop, so at some point I want to get the paint redone. I'm going to keep the english green color though, I like it. I'll be posting more pictures after it stops raining here in northern california *glares at the clouds* and after I fix a minor little problem it had on arrival. It got jostled a bit on the vehicle transport and the fuel line is loose at the connection to the fuel pump. Every time I turn it over I can hear the diaphragm sucking air, so I need to pull it apart and see why it's loose; then fix that. Then I can pull it back out of the drive way and take better pictures. For now you'll have to settle for the body plate and front view of it sitting in the car port, and one I took with my mobile phone when the vehicle transport showed up.
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Would one of the fine experts here be able to decode the info for my new baby? Just accepted delivery of a 1939 Buick Roadmaster 81:
1939 Mod. 81
Style No: 39-4819
Body No: 1769
Trim No: 719
Paint No 530
'35 V12 engine question.
in 1931-1939 Lincoln Model "K" Only
Posted
Well with herculean effort I managed to get the driver's seat to slide back another inch or so into the back frame, so It can be driven with some level of safety, yay! It's also been registered and DMV has no problem with the original 1935 plates. The number was clear
On the down side, the gas gauge apparently doesn't work. I can see a little amber fluid in the very bottom of the glass tube but it's not registering the level. My buick and packards all have float and needle gauges, so I have no clue how to go about fixing this fluid style. Any suggestions?