George chomokovski
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Posts posted by George chomokovski
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Yes Grimy, I am using the 1933 McLaughlin Buick shop manual. If I remember right the three gear timing was only on the 31-33 model years .In 34 they changed to a gear and chain, and the dist was driven off the cam and the generator was belt driven. or a completely different casting. But as you say the change over could be in 36. If I could verify the cam timing is correct then I will reassemble the engine and as you and sligermachine have said run it. I have had it running for about an hour, with about 6 miles on the road. It was on the road where you notice the lack of power and the slow revving under load. But at 86 hp who knows. Oh ya I think I remember a timing mark on the flywheel when the dots on the crank and cam are alined but it is not at TDC
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First , yes valve cover , yes to running, run well not so much. smooth enough ,but lack of power. I will give you a run down on work done. Gas tank cleaned and sealed , electric pump had a dead spot from sitting , so it was removed and run {in fuel not dry} till it would pump on demand fuel filters replaced, carb cleaned and adjusted as per manuel. Plugs cleaned and gapped, points cleaned and adjusted ,distbuter cleaned and lubed, valve lash checked and the timing has been adjusted by timing light test light and by vacuum gauge. Fuel pressure checked. air filter cleaned .
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That is the trouble, the manual doesn't give the proper method of setting or checking the cam timing . I only have the front cover off , the rad is still in place. the timing marks on the gears do not line up at TDC, but they are alined just not At TDC . this is is dot to dot . but there is a line on the cam gear that is three teeth off from a letter C on the crank with the crank at TDC. My comp tester does get used {about weekly} and is accurate. Every time I have come across this low compression /low vacuum the cam had jumped a tooth or two. It's the timing marks that have me stumped. This car is fighting me, the gas gauge drove me nuts, when it was rebuilt they painted the inside of the housing which is needed for a ground. And the sending unit was not grounding because of a gasket between the upper and lower portions of the unit.
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No to engine speed . the 102 is for the low compression engine the 5.25 ratio is 114 for compression and the running comp test would be lower than a cranking test as in the sample test below. Last all I know is the car has less than 300 miles since purchase in 1999 , last plate is 2008
Sample Test Readings
Comparing measurements between cylinders is important. Running compression at idle should be 50-75 PSI (about half cranking compression). Snap throttle compression should be about 80% of cranking compression. Let’s analyze the results from the following sample test readings.
EXAMPLE 1 CYL STATIC IDLE SNAP 1 150 75 85 2 175 80 130 3 160 75 120 4 160 80 120 In Example 1, cylinder #1 has a snap test reading that is much lower than the other cylinders. If a snap reading is low (much less than 80% cranking compression), look for air intake problems such as severe carbon deposits on intake valves, worn cam lobe,worn valve guides and springs, rocker or push rod problems, or “shutter valve” miss-positioned in the runners of a variable runner intake system.
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The distributor is has no vacuum advance so no problem there. The weights are free and lubed. By the way the correct name and model is a 1933 McLaughlin Buick 8-58 ser 203179 engine 2843827
1 hour ago, Grimy said:George, check those specs again, because I think the 102/114 psi will be at 1,000 rpm rather than cranking speed. That means running engine with gauge in one hole, 8 separate times. Even 50 years ago, I didn't know any mechanics who did a 1,000 rpm compression test. Rule of Thumb (ROT) for low compression engines like ours is atmospheric pressure (14.7 at sea level, calculated for you earlier in thread for your 800 ft elevation) x compression ratio. So at sea level, OPTIMAL compression reading would be 14.7 x 5.25 = 77.18 gauge reading, and less at your altitude.
If the car hasn't been run recently, a good dose of upper cylinder lube in your gas tank (4 or 5 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil per 10 gallons) will free up valves sticking/dragging in their guides.
One other thing to check is whether the advance weights in the distributor are gummed up by dried grease. Also, check vacuum with the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged--if there's a difference, the diaphragm in the vacuum chamber may be compromised.
4 hours ago, Grimy said:My 1934 56S (and all other 50 series that year) had 4.88 differential gears and a cruising speed of 45 mph and I might go for short bursts to 55-60, but no more than that.
I think any vacuum over 16 is excellent. Suggest you do a thorough check for vacuum leaks--do you have the vacuum-assisted brakes as mine did (or other faddish accessories like power-assisted shifting)? If so... (1) disconnect and plug the vacuum source for the brakes, then check vacuum; (2) ensure that vacuum hose leading to the power brake unit is VACUUM heavy duty hose (about $5/ft) rather than heater hose; (3) add some castor oil to the seals in the power brake unit as per the shop manual.
I thought 80 was B.S for this car, On a flatdeck maybe. I did a vacuum leak test with all two lines plugged best I could get is a steady 13-14 inches. Next is why I think the compression is low is the shop manual says the low compression engine is102 psi and the high compression is to be 114 so 75 is low by 40 psi on this engine.
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The
21 minutes ago, Grimy said:My 1934 56S (and all other 50 series that year) had 4.88 differential gears and a cruising speed of 45 mph and I might go for short bursts to 55-60, but no more than that.
I think any vacuum over 16 is excellent. Suggest you do a thorough check for vacuum leaks--do you have the vacuum-assisted brakes as mine did (or other faddish accessories like power-assisted shifting)? If so... (1) disconnect and plug the vacuum source for the brakes, then check vacuum; (2) ensure that vacuum hose leading to the power brake unit is VACUUM heavy duty hose (about $5/ft) rather than heater hose; (3) add some castor oil to the seals in the power brake unit as per the shop manual.
I thought 80 was B.S for this car, On a flatdeck maybe. I did a vacuum leak test with all two lines plugged best I could get is a steady 13-14 inches. Next is why I think the compression is low is the shop manual says the low compression engine is102 psi and the high compression is to be 114 so 75 is low by 40 psi on this engine.
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Well since I have the front off the engine, What is the correct method to set up the timing marks on the cam/crank gears. what would be the top speed of the car be, the owner said the guy he bought it from had it up to 80. mph . This speed has me worried as it is a long stroke engine and a fresh rebuild.
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Hi every one, I have a 1933 Buick model 8-58 that I am bringing back to life after a ten year sleep. The fuel system has been cleaned , and adjusted, points and timing set. It runs but not strong, the comp test was 75 psi for all eight and the best vacuum of 14 inches at 800 feet above sea level. All I can think of was cam timing is off. Any one have any ideas
33 Buick low compression, low vacuum
in Buick - Pre War
Posted · Edited by George chomokovski
cant answer post (see edit history)
There are three marks on the flywheel , one where the timing marks line up. This is not TDC. Then the next is the advanced timing mark then a few degrees later TDC. The marks are all within 1/4 crank rotation. As I have the valve cover off{to see overlap} as well as the distributor cap {to check rotor position} and the engine runs I can't be out 180 . A friend sent me a screen capture of a forum conversation that said just line up the timing marks on the cam and crank bring it to TDC line up the distributor to number 1 start and set the timing. As for the manual I have it has one blurry pic of the timing gears and no instructions. I will take some pics tomorrow witch may help.