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markpb

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Posts posted by markpb

  1. May I consult  the collective wisdom please on the serviceability (or lack of it) of 1920's HT coils?

     

     The issue is this: I have a modern (about 1950s) coil (works perfectly) in my mid 20's car, but wish to replace it for a proper period item - but only if I think there is a sporting chance that such an item could  work... no guarantees at auto jumbles of course..

    I have quite a bit of past experience with magnetos- these invariably have to be rebuilt within 100 years (shellac disease often), but I do not know if early HT coils are capable of lasting -perhaps their insulation is rather more long-lasting.  Any opinions gratefully received. 

  2. Thank you Gentlemen for your thoughts. 

    I think that the GearVendor overdrive solution may be the one. I had no knowledge of this company beforehand. Even if I were to find a local machine shop that would take on the CW&P work (which I have still not) I actually do to know that the required combination would even fit in the cage, as was pointed out. 

  3. I would be very grateful to hear of any recommendations for  a workshop in the New England region willing to  fabricate a new crown wheel & pinion set in order to replace that existing  in a 1925 car with a higher ratio.  Thank you. 

  4. 1 hour ago, Grimy said:

    Does anyone have information on when compression fittings were first commonly used?  I can tell you that Pierce-Arrow never used them thru their end in 1938.  Pierce used 45* flares with Long Nuts on their copper tubing, which was either 5/16 or 3/8 depending on model.  OP has a 1925 auto (no make provided in this thread yet), and I can't recall ever seeing compression fittings on any car of that vintage.

     

    I suppose "olives" is autocorrect for "ferrules," or is that Aussie nomenclature?  :-)

     

    Now that Cunifer is available, I'd use that for new work, but I've never had a work-hardening failure with "soft  copper" tubing on multiple pre-war cars. 

    I think that "David AU" is, as it turns out,  referring principally to British cars (many exported new to Australasia in the late teens and  through the 20's).   I too have not seen British vintage fuel lines fitted with anything  other than compression fittings. Flaring is seen on the the oil lines though.  

    'Olives' is not particularly autocorrect- they are what British plumbers call 'ferrules". 

  5. 20 minutes ago, jan arnett (2) said:

    When you get a flare tool spend a couple of extra dollars for one and don't buy the cheapest one you find.  It will make life simpler and safer.  

    ha! I have just this minute ordered one online actually - I hope it will work well for me...

  6. 7 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

    I agree with the Cunifer suggestion. Really great stuff.  I get mine with the brand name SUR&R  Easy bend. 

     

    No need for pipe bending machine/tool/whatever when using Cunifer. Just easy bends with hands. For really tight bends I use a hand bending tool.

     

    You can get copper from Mcmaster Carr at a very high price. P/N  8955K241             Not suggested.

    thanks very much! 

  7. I would like to consult AACA expertise on the choice of fuel line material for the restoration of a 1925 car.

    Previous problems led me to restore the whole fuel supply system. This included laying on a temporary twelve-feet length of simple reinforced rubber fuel pipe, between rear tank and bulkhead vacuum tank, thereby superseding the badly blocked (original) copper fuel pipe (5/16" OD).  

    I have been able to find a supplier of correctly-sized copper replacement  pipe only in the UK; otherwise, the nearest  product here in the US would be a cupronickel alloy. I have not yet located a supplier of compression and threaded fittings suitable to it.

    But is there now in existence an alternative and  satisfactory flexible line -perhaps of armored construction- which could prove much more straightforwards to route  along the chassis than traditional metal  pipework? 

  8. Thanks for that. Following from what you say, it may indeed be that the output is too low on the electric pump I had fitted when at 2 or so psi  -and clearly, from the advice already received, it would not be a wise step to use higher pump pressure to try to deliver more fuel to the float. I take your point about the change in float level altering the carburation - isn't it  always charming to hear an old motor at tickover mumble with successive gasps  as the vacuum chamber charges - which I suppose is a manifestation of the sensitivity you are referring to.  I am trying to set up the vacuum tank again, and abandoning my electric pump substitute, which I have not got right.

  9. Thanks for that. Yes that is interesting. Yours, and post of 'nickel roadster', convince me that increasing the pump pressure to any more than a couple of PSI is not my answer. After a  long story of faults and possible remedies, I am now reverting to getting the vacuum tank once more into dependable operation....

  10. I ask for any  help on substituting an electric feed for a Stewart tank supplying a Marvel carburetor  on a 6 cyl  1925 vehicle.  At present the 'waterhead' (in fuel), from the middle of the vacuum tank to the float chamber floor,  is about 12" - this may equate to 0.4 psi apparently.

    When electric pump is set to this pressure (regulator valve), there is sporadic starvation, especially on hills.  I would like to know what the safe pressure capacity of the Marvel float chamber is considered to be. I was wondering if the volatility of the fuel may counter the calculation based on height alone, as reckoned from the layout of the supply in the car.

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