Greymist69
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Posts posted by Greymist69
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On 9/2/2020 at 7:24 PM, Big Ricky said:
Wanted to reach out to the Kings of Buick Riviera to see if there was some good/great advice when selecting a stereo for the 66 Riviera. Any purchase types, types & install info for the beginner. Also, I know there's a 6x9 in the rear but does anybody know what size is in the front?Thanks & have a great Memorial Day weekend.
I have a new 6x9 and a new 4x10 left over from my aftermarket install if you are interested. I installed a retrosound unit, looks and works great!
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Yes I do.
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69 Riviera GS Grey Mist 61K original miles. All systems working with many new parts. Not perfect but a great driver. Matching numbers with original owners documentation and restoration logs. Custom wheels and retrosound added. Factory A/C, Cruise (disconnected), rear window de-icer (disconnected). Power Stratobench, column shift. New paint, carpet, shocks, springs, bushings, steering linkage, brake cylinders, fuel pump, refurbished fuel tank. Vacuum headlamps work, new bulbs all around. Much more. Downsizing, some of the toys have to go. Call or text Dave at +1 (305) 582-1645 for more details. $19,995 in Miami, FL.
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Awesome guys, thanks!
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Hi guys, has anyone replaced the veneer on a 69 dash? What did you use/how did it work out?
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Solved! Roy Hing in Portland had five to choose from. He's sitting on a ton of 69 Rivieraparts, give him a call for what you need.
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Hello, does anyone have a lead on a working heater/AC controller? My blower switch went bad... 1969 Riviera
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by the way, the Camaro actuators are not a direct replacement at all. First you need to add an extension to the bottom bracket of about an inch or two, then cut off the cast aluminum eye from the new actuator and then weld or epoxy on the threaded clevis connector from your original actuator. Definitely not plug and play. but the price... i need to replace the other original actuator on my 69 but i don't want the hassle of the fabrication but i also don't want the $360 bill for the correct actuator, so for now no disappearing headlight trick for my69.
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On 12/9/2018 at 12:26 AM, PWB said:
Try Tim at:
elco1979@yahoo.com
May take a few days to get a response.
Let us know how you make out
He has one, buying it tonight. thanks for the tip!
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11 minutes ago, 68RIVGS said:
The front portion mounts into a galvanized metal strip that has a "V" lip in the top - the same holds true for the rear most portion of the rocker panel trim.
The entire length of the panel is secured by 3, to 6 dimpled cup washers screwed, and positioned along the length of the rocker panel.
The lip on the top of the anodized aluminum cover is trapped behind the "v" strips and the dimpled washers.
The sheet metal screw at the bottom of the ribbed molding secure the rocker panel molding to the car.
I also painted my ribbed molding to simulate the Black anodized finish after straightening and dent removal.
The original factory finish had faded from age and exposure to road debris.
It barely shows once it's mounted on the lower portion of the car.
There may be more rocker panel trim info in a '68/'69 Fisher Body Manual.
. . . trust this helps Graymist69
Yes, excellent - now to find the galvanized metal strip with the v groove in the top...
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I am installing the black anodized aluminum grooved rocker panel trim pieces on my '69 Riviera, but I can't figure out how the top edge attaches. The holes along the bottom of the panel will bolt up to the bottom of the cars rocker panel without a problem, but the top has to attach to the body in some way, and I don't remember how it is supposed to go. There is a lip that should hook onto something but what?
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On 12/5/2018 at 8:33 PM, RivNut said:
How "exact" do you want it to be? A repo is made for the 65 era Chevy Impala that mounts on the same two ball studs. New studs are available as well.
Studs are no problem. The repo i found is not close enough to work. Still looking.
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So, can anyone help me with...
An accelerator pedal?
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Hi Randy
I chose a more recent Buick grey, this one is Smoky Grey Metallic from 2016. That's what I told the paint shop I wanted anyway, I haven't seen its exact match on another car on the road yet, Buick or otherwise.
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Paint is done, interior is done, added wheels what do you think!
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So, finally finished the welding, body filler, sanding and priming. Found a body shop to finish the prep and paint her, and they should start work tomorrow! They say they'll have it done in a couple months. Then I'll take it back home to finish the glass, weather strip, interior and reinstall the chrome trim.
So, the front windscreen cracked while I had it stored, any good source besides Old Car Parts Depot? Also will need a carpet, maybe new seat covers. The pot metal trim will get a good buffing, but no rechrome, let me know if you have any tips.
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Update - the '69 GS runs and drives just fine - could probably use some fine adjustments, but for the most part she runs quite well.
I'm fixing the rust now, prepping for paint. Stripped all the carpet & seats, chrome and stainless trim, found all the hidden rust. There's surface rust coming up from under the paint too. So, stripping the paint to bare metal. Will need to weld in some patches - already welded in new floor sections on the drivers side, so that's done, with a friend's MIG welding help. For the rest I'm borrowing a MIG welder and teaching myself (and my 17 year old son, who is "helping") how to weld.
So, stripping all of the paint and welding all of the holes, then going back and sanding/grinding the surface rust off the bare steel. Patch panels on doors, fenders and wheel well arches to form and weld in, should be entertaining. Need to pull the glass to fix the holes around the windshield and rear glass, tool is on order.
Then what? How do I treat the clean bare metal? Just a primer, or do I coat it with Ospho first, or some other bare metal treatment?
I want to treat it, prime it, then block it, then put in any body filler required to finish, then take it to the professional painter to complete. Probably a pearly grey for the respray, close to original but a little more pearl.
Any So Fla paint & body shops to suggest?
Then I get to reassemble, fix the A/C a few other minor accessories, and enjoy!
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On 4/27/2016 at 4:35 PM, mannemerjung said:
Hi everybody,
after getting so much great advice from the community, I thought it would be nice to share some R-rated pictures of my overhauled and re-painted engine and the woodgrain kit a friend of mine made for me. I went with a more mahagony-like shade and since I never really liked the plastic handle of the shifter, I decided to break out the dremel and some woodstain and re-do the handle out of real wood. To finish the whole mahagony theme I also stained the wooden steering wheel which will replace the cracked original to match the other inlays.
I hope you enjoy the pictures and thanks again for all your help.
Alexander
Mechanical Fuel Pump?
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My '69 has the electric fuel pump in the tank - I can hear it running after I crank the motor for a few seconds. It took me three times tonight to start it, after driving it just yesterday - crank for 10 seconds, listen to pump for ten seconds, pump the pedal, repeat. Once it starts it will start again on a revolution or less. I was thinking the fuel line needed a check valve...
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Update:
Picked up the Riv from the shop, they got it running like a champ, installed the exhaust, adjusted/fixed the brakes and aligned the front end. One of the belts failed, then the water pump started leaking, but that's all fixed now, with new belts, a new pump and a flush. She's loud - attracts a lot of attention. Drover her around today waiting for the radiator flush to do it's job, received three or four thumbs up.
I have a hole to repair under the passenger floor, a front bench seat cover to repair, (and motor to get unfrozen) - maybe fix the A/C and then I can start to work on the body and paint!
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OK, Charlies Auto repair took care of it, it was bad or poorly adjusted points. It runs now, the exhaust is installed, the brakes are being checked out. Needed a new center link, that's on order. Replacing the valve guides and valve cover gaskets while we are at it.
Having trouble tuning the carb - the flow from the replacement fuel pump might be a little strong. The spec calls for at least a pint in 30 seconds,(Min 15 GPH) but the fuel pump spec says 25 - 40 GPH.
Anyone have experience with some sort of fuel flow regulator?
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I couldn't figure it out. Even the jumper trick didn't work. I had her towed to a local mechanic. Went by today, the guy behind the counter said "Well we usually don't take that old of a car here, when the boss sees it I'm not sure what he's going to say". But, I had all of the parts already, he thought that would help. Ignition parts were not hard to find. Anyway I'll let them have it for a while, see if they call with a revelation, or if they want to tow it back to the house.Cant imagine they would kick me out, but if you know anyone in Miami that loves classic car repair please pass their name along!
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Hi Jilla;
I cleaned the ground connections, still no spark at the coil tower. Changed the coil too. I did discover a mis-wiring inside the distributor; the wire from the negative terminal of the coil was not connected to the points terminal correctly with the condensor wire, it was connected to a mounting screw for the points. I fixed that, but still no spark. Maybe I burned the condenser?
There is only one wire from the harness to the positive terminal of the coil, is that correct? The voltage with the ignition coil is 5.5V to the positive terminal, which is good, but when I crank the starter it drops to 4.5V. Is that correct?
Thanks
Dave
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Hey thanks for all the advice guys! The motor does turn over, just doesn't fire just now.
All of the fluids are changed, oil, filter, transmission, coolant, brake. Checked the rear end too, it was topped off.
Seems like it was put away with oil in the cylinders, and the P.O. tried to get it started up before he sold it. Blew out the oil, changed the plugs when he pulled it out of storage. Said he blew some ether in it and it kicked a few times, with a separate gas can as the fuel source. Biggest issue was the fuel system; had to clean and reseal the fuel tank, then replace the fuel pump/sending unit, and rubber lines. Flow checked out OK, then I rebuilt the carb. So its getting fuel.
So it turns over and there's voltage to the coil, but no spark from the primary or the plug.
I bought a shiny yellow Accel Coil online - supposed to fit my car but the resistance is higher than spec. Maybe that's my spark problem?
Rolled it out of the garage anyway, found out the brakes were barely working at all. Still an improvement on completely broken, but they need further adjustment.
Exhaust is still a PITA, might need to bring it to a shop for that, find someone that wants to cuss at my broken studs and rounded manifold bolts for me.
Anyway. all for now, checking further on the coil sizing.
pics attached.
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WTB 1969 Riviera Bucket seats and console
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
Looking for 69 Riv bucket days and console with shifter for an upgrade, whose got one?