joelj
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Posts posted by joelj
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It seems like you might have too much tension between the latches and strikers on the right side. You might check the rubber bumpers that are attached to the upper grill bar. If they have been replaced, the replacements may be a little thick. If this is the case, you will be able to remove the one on the right with the left side of the hood opened. Close and try with a little slack.
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1 hour ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:
I added a fuse to the horn circuit where the voltage supply goes into the horn relay. This may hopefully prevent major damage if the circuit shorts to ground somewhere.
Joe, BCA 33493
I was thinking that this might be a good idea. Did you add the fuse in the engine compartment on the 12 gage wire that goes to the center post of the horn relay or elsewhere? I am also curious what amp fuse you used? Pardon my ignorance, I know enough about wiring to follow a factory diagram but not enough to make any improvements. Thanks much,
Joel J. BCA 47829
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6 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:
Dealer installed the options that aren't marked, maybe?
This would be an interesting question for the 400 point judging. Which way would meet the "as delivered from the factory" standard, with or without the extra options?
I'm really down to just the radio and antenna at this point. After looking at some information, the flexible steering wheel was standard for the Century therefore probably not marked as an option on the build sheet. The wire wheels were apparently added later in the car's life.
As JohnD mentioned, I am wondering if the Selectronic radio and power antenna was available as a dealer added accessory. I would also like to find out what the standard equipment radio would have been. Radio delete, or a fifth choice below the Sonomatic push button with manual antenna? I noticed that all four radio options listed on the build sheet are also listed as extra cost options.
I'm working my way through some electrical issues this car had in the past, so any information on these things might be helpful.
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While working on my Century, I found what is apparently a build sheet attached to the bottom of the glove box. It looks like a complete list of possible options with the options the car was built with confirmed in bold below. Trouble is, I have options on the car that are not marked on the sheet. I am curious if anyone has any insight on this?
Here's how my car is equipped: manual transmission, manual brakes, manual steering, no power anything. However it has a selectronic radio and power antenna, flexible steering wheel (I think) and wire wheels. To me, it seems like an odd group of options except for the steering wheel.
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Thanks again for everyone's input. The new harness is on order. 10 to 12 weeks out. I have plenty of other projects to do on the car while I wait so it's really not a problem. Meanwhile, I'm back to the horn contact project I started on Saturday.
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2 hours ago, old-tank said:
The yellow wire to the vacuum start switch on the carb and the red wire to the horn relay are not fuse protected and if shorted will fry the harness causing new problems.
I checked the wiring at the carburetor and that seems fine except for aftermarket terminals. The red 10 gauge at the horn relay is fine until you get under the dash. There it is burnt at the headlight switch feed and maybe the ammeter as well. I think that the black 10 gauge from the junction block to the ammeter fried first (most all of the insulation is gone) the red probably shorted once the black melted through.
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14 hours ago, Bloo said:
Was the wire out to the generator regulator "BAT" terminal also toasted? And the one from the GEN terminal down to the generator?
I've not seen it happen in person, but have on two cars had to clean up the mess that is created when a generator gets polarized backwards and somehow manages to start charging. That should never happen, but maybe a particular combination of stuck points and backward polarization.... It burns everything in that circuit from generator windings all the way to the battery or battery cable.
If only the wire section from the battery cable to the ammeter is melted, then probably some accessory shorted to ground. and the battery did the rest. It could have been the horn circuit, but probably not the part of the horn circuit having to do with the steering column, more like the heavy wiring to the relay and the relay itself. If there is no major damage to the ammeter that is probably what happened. If it was some other accessory, it should have really toasted the ammeter internals. If you can find another wire that is melted but not just melted because it was laying against a melting wire, that could lead you to the thing that did it.
I checked things out under the hood, and everything looks good. The problem seems to be limited to the part of the harness under the dash. An aftermarket accessory that has long since been disconnected and disposed of may have been the culprit. The evidence is there. I am going to look into a replacement harness tomorrow.
Thanks for your input.
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I baught this car in September. I guess I am trying to figure out what may have happened many years ago. When I started looking at this problem I had a non working horn ring, and someone had wired in an aftermarket under dash switch. I disconnected the aftermarket switch and touched it to the factory connector on the column and the horn blew. Ok, I thought the contact was just shorted to ground on the column shaft so it would have to be replaced. It was only when I began the process of disconnecting the signal wires from the underdash fuse block that I noticed burnt wires. Tracing the worst wire back through the firewall, I found that it went to the underhood junction block on the same terminal as the positive battery cable. It was wrapped in electric tape , but was bare wire under the tape. Looking at the factory wiring diagram in the shop manual, it looked like the wire went directly to the ammeter. Feeling around the connection at the ammeter I can feel the burnt disconnected end. The more I looked, the more I noticed, it must have gotten pretty hot at some point in time. Probably came close to catching the whole thing on fire. The wire cooking off the ammeter probably saved the car. Probably a separate problem from the horn contact. That 10 gauge black wire definitely looks like it cooked more than anything else.
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So my project took a different direction today, what started as a horn contact replacement turned into a wiring problem that I didn't anticipate. Bare wire in several places the worst of witch seems to be the black 10 gauge that runs from the underhood junction to the ammeter. I also noticed that the 10 gauge red feed to the headlight switch had burnt insulation. Apparently, I am going to have to unwrap and inspect the underdash harness for further damage. I am wondering what the root cause may have been. Can a defective ammeter cause a short that can cook an entire harness? Or do you think that the short may have originated elsewhere. I am surprised that almost everything seemed to work up to this point. Can't say as much for the amp gauge, I wish I paid closer attention to it given the current situation.
Thanks, your advice is always appreciated.
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9 hours ago, Fr. Buick said:
Yes, you are correct. It is a solid shaft from the steering wheel to the worm gear in the housing. You can remove the gear and shaft out of the column without disassembling the entire column, but it is work... Disconnect all linkage and wiring on the column, disconnect the steering wheel. Undo the column at the dash, and the gear at the frame and column. Free up the front seat and slide it back. Free up the insulation at the firewall, inner and outer. Everything tilts down inside the car to allow the gear to tilt up and out of the engine bay.
Thanks for the detailed information.
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I was looking for an exploded view print of the steering column for a 54 Century. Manual steering, manual transmission. Couldn't find it in the 54 shop manual. I am attempting to replace a broken lower horn contact. Looking at a couple of old posts on the topic and filling in the blanks on my particular configuration, it seems like steering shaft runs the whole way from the wheel into the gear without a separation. Am I correct about this?
Thanks, I thaught I might elaborate on my original post.
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If you still have the original skirts, they might be salvageable. A post on the Buick forum (Buick post war, 1955 Buick seat repair) from about the first week of October might be of some inspiration. I plan on using the idea on my 54 Century to repair a split on the drivers side skirt. The photo is just to show the extent of damage I'm dealing with. It might be worth a try depending on your situation.
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I am curious if anyone has had
experience using a product that would help to preserve 70 year old cloth from further wear or uv damage. I used fabric dye to get some of the color back into it, now I would like to restore some of the sheen and add some durability to the cloth. Any suggestions are welcome. I am dealing with an origanal interior that I know can be re-ulpolstered, but I would like to see what I can do with what I already have. I am not as much concerned about saving money or tme as I am about preserving the original material.
Thanks for your suggestions,
Joel J.
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I am looking for a trunk lock cylinder for my 1954 Century. It is a tear drop shape with a spring loaded door. A working cylinder with a key would be great. It looks like the cylinder would interchange from 52 to 54 Buick, Olds, and Cadillac. If anyone has one of these, let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Joel J.
724-944- 8133 , or send a pm, whatever works best for you.
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Looks like they welded a little steel plate over the hole on the inside. I'm guessing that it was held in place then braised from the outside.
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I recently purchased (traded for) a 54 Century project that has had the deck lid shaved at some point in its life. I would like to re insall a latch, lock cylinder, etc. I was thinking that someone with a 54 Century or Special could take a couple of measurements: from the bottom lip of the deck lid to the center of the lock cylinder and from one of the sides to the center of the lock cylinder. I would also appreciate any information I can get on the parts associated with the repair. Stamping numbers, interchange etc, I have missing parts, so nothing. I am heading for Hershey next week, so I am hoping to get some information on what I am looking for. Otherwise parts/ information from a known donar car would be much appreciated. Thanks . Joel J.
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I am in need of a trunk latch, lock cylinder and associated hardware for my 54 Century. I just recently purchased the car and its had some mild modifications done years ago that I am trying to undo. Thanks, Joel J. 724-944-8133.
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54 Buick Century 2dr ht: trunk latch, lock cylinder and associated hardware. I would be willing to buy a complete deck lid with the hardware if available. Trunk applique (Century or Special). I would also like to improve some of the chrome trim around the side windows so I will also be hunting for some vent window and rear window frames with good driver quality chrome.
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5 hours ago, g-g-g0 said:
From Team Buick web site! Hope it helps.
Thanks, I found it just as described. Good info.
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I don't know if this is the appropriate place to post this or not. I thaught it might be a good idea. I was thinking of forum sub topic for Hershey where buyers can post their specific needs and sellers can respond by giving their location and have time to actually bring the part or item if they have it. It might be a good way to connect with people before hand. Sellers would know what to bring and buyers will know where to go to find what they are looking for. It would be nice if this could be limited to specific year make and model car and truck parts (specific items) not just general advertising.
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I just bought a 54 Century and spent the last couple of evenings exploring the car. I am hoping that someone point me in the right direction as to where I can find the engine id on the block.
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Its possible that vacuum leak around the intake manifold can cause some of the symptoms that you described.
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Curious if anyone has had experience using TPC global acrylic lacquer. I have used fast drying single stage lacquer in the past with good results and I am wondering how their product compares to the PPG lacquer I was able to get 12 years ago. It also looks like they can mix it in original colors from their paint library. I just never heard of the company until I tried doing searces for lacquer paint and found their website Tcpglobal.com
experience using a product that would help to preserve 70 year old cloth from further wear or uv damage. I used fabric dye to get some of the color back into it, now I would like to restore some of the sheen and add some durability to the cloth. Any suggestions are welcome. I am dealing with an origanal interior that I know can be re-ulpolstered, but I would like to see what I can do with what I already have. I am not as much concerned about saving money or tme as I am about preserving the original material.
65 GP I think I may have a defective new fuel sending unit
in Pontiac & Oakland
Posted
No, I never did get around to fixing this issue. I am reluctant to buy another identical sending unit, go through the trouble of installing it and have the same results. The float on my replacment unit is a hallow white plastic. I am curious if that is the same as the one that you had problems with. If so, are the replacements the same or different material? Thanks for your input, it gives me another idea on what to look for when I finally get around to removing the tank again and see what's going on.