[1940 Commander E-Brake]

Hi Nathan,

 

Thanks so much.  They are probably pretty similar.  The pic of the cable near the pedals there is especially helpful!

 

Christian

[1940 Commander E-Brake]

My cables appear to be in decent shape and move freely after some WD-40 and wiggling.  At some point I will pull them off and clean them up a bit more.

 

I am missing the clamps that hold the cable to the rear brakes.  I was really just looking for a couple pics of how the cable was attached to the rear brake so that I could make something similar.

 

Also after testing it out last night it appears that the cable also attaches to someplace in the middle of the car frame?  Prior to where the cable is split in two.  I can't tell what it is supposed to be hooked to.   A pic of that would also be helpful.

 

The pics in the manual are pretty small and not very detailed.  As far as I can tell it is just a piece of metal that sandwiches the cable to the bracket on the rear brake.  I assume the bolt fits in the cable conduit notch.  

[1940 Commander E-Brake]

Does anyone happen to have a decent picture of their 1940 Commander E-Brakes cables clamped down on the rear brakes?  I have the manuals but the drawings don't seem very helpful to me.  I appear to be missing my clamps and haven't been able to find replacements online.  Looks like I might have to fabricate something instead.

 

Thanks in advance

[1940 Commander Vacuum Line?]

I had another look at the tube in question and you are correct there is a little ball valve in there that I had not noticed.

[1940 Commander Vacuum Line?]

When I got my Commander a few years back the engine was mostly together.  Some hoses, gauge hookups, wires and the like had been disconnected (or rotted away).  I am currently getting the engine all plumbed up for the test fire (finally...) and I cannot find out for the life of me what this line off the manifold is for (picture attached).  It has some sort of barb on the end so I figure it was attached to some soft line?  I assume it is some sort of vacuum hose?

 

I wasn't able to find anything helpful in my books so not sure if this was an add-on or if I just overlooked the part in a diagram.

 

I do have overdrive in case that information is helpful.

 

Thanks in advance for your help as always,

 

Christian

[1940 Studebaker Commander Rear Engine Mounts]

Thank you all!  This will solve my problem when I get back in the garage.

 

fh4ever:  Yes the 39 and 40s are near identical.  As SpinneyHill pointed out; the 39 shop manual is used for the 40.  I didn't think to look in it for this issue.  From what I can tell the major difference between the two years is the front suspension.  There is a 39 in a junkyard near me that I have already pilfered some parts from.  Also yes I have overdrive.  I have the support for that to install but it didn't seem correct since there was such a huge gap.

 

Thanks again,

 

Christian

[1940 Studebaker Commander Rear Engine Mounts]

I've recently reinstalled my engine in my commander but I am thinking that I put the rear mounts on incorrectly.  The transmission is snug up against the body and the overdrive case mount on the back of the transmission has about a 1 inch gap when I look at putting that in.

 

Attached are some images of similar mounts.  The diagrams in the books were of little help here.  What I ended up doing was stacking the upper mount (right) on top of the lower mount (left).  These are on top of the cross member and the bell housing rests right on top of them.  The bolt to hold the rear or the engine in is definitely long enough that it needs both but it seems like it is too tall.

 

Do I not need the upper mount (this seems unlikely due to bolt length)?  What is the torque spec for these mounts?  Maybe I need to tighten it down more?  I went to 30 ft lbs but there was little to no change in the height of the rear or the engine.  Or maybe it is fine and after a little driving etc it will mush down and be fine?

 

Any help is appreciated!  Thanks!

 

[1940 Studebaker paint]

Thanks studeq!  Looks very sharp

[1940 Studebaker paint]

Sorry to resurrect an older topic but trying to get the correct colors on the car.

 

Studeq any chance you can post a picture of the engine?  Is yours considered original colors?  I was curious what color all the extra bolt on parts are like pullys, fan, etc.

[1940 Studebaker paint]

Studeq,

 

Is the color behind the front grills also body color?

[1940 Studebaker paint]

Whoops.  Yes I forgot to mention that I have a Commander

[1940 Studebaker paint]

I am starting to get ready to put parts of my car back together after working on the mechanical parts. While I am a ways away from painting the body there are some parts of the car that I will be painting/powder coating now and I am trying to get some guidance on what it used to look like prior to doing so.

I've found several different sources for body paint such as http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcod...r=1940&rows=50 

I am leaning towards the Colleen Dark Green. From what I understand the running boards are body color (or fender for two tone) and then rubber matting is applied. The frame, tie rods, etc I plan on doing just simple black.

What color would the wheels have been?
What about the engine bay? Was that body color as well?
Any other paint details that I didn't ask about?

The engine and trans used to be the engine green offered for that era. I am thinking this might look odd with the Dark Green. Trying to decide if I go with the green or some other color such as grey.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Rebuilt 1936 Chevy Engine and Transmission for sale]

sold!

[1940 Commander parts wanted]

I found the parts I was looking for off a 1939 Commander I found at a local junk yard

[Rebuilt 1936 Chevy Engine and Transmission for sale]

I bought this 1936 Chevy engine and transmission to put into my Studebaker temporarily but ended up not using it. It is and inline 6, 207 stove bolt engine. It was recently rebuilt and has about 500 miles on the rebuild. 

It comes with the fuel pump, generator and starter. I also have the exhaust.

A video of the running engine

 

I live in Gilbert Arizona.

 

Asking 1200

[1940 Commander Engine Specs]

I am located in Gilbert, Arizona

[1940 Commander parts wanted]

You are correct I have a 4 door.

[1940 Commander Engine Specs]

Thank you studeboy and nvonada!

[1940 Commander parts wanted]

I am looking for a couple trim pieces that are missing or badly damaged on my car. 

 

I am looking for the emblems that were on the side of the hood.  These are completely missing.  I have been unable to find a good picture of what these are supposed to look like.  That would be helpful also.

 

My passenger side trim above the rear fender is badly damaged and probably not salvageable.

 

Let me know if you are able to help!

[1940 Commander Engine Specs]

I am currently in the process of tearing down my 1940 Commander engine since it wasn't in running order when I purchased the car. All of the exhaust valves were fairly rusted (anyone know why this is?) on the heads and one had seized. The cam timing gear was then had the teeth chewed off.

Anyway since the car hadn't run in 40ish years from what I was told we decided to just rebuild the whole thing. I believe it has 74k original miles but there is no way of really knowing other then what the condition of the engine looks like. Other then being super dirty so far there doesn't appear to be significant wear.

That brings me to my real question.

I am looking for complete specs for bearing measurements, torque, etc. I have the shop manual (and parts manuals) but the only thing I see in these is torque specs. Nothing on bearing specs. I am trying to determine if I need to get the block machined, purchase the correct bearings, rings, and depending on what happens with the block new pistons if I have to get over-sized ones.

Thanks in advance for your help!