kobayashimaru

March 10, 2018

,Thanks again for all the information, Everybody! I'm going to see the car Saturday. I got a little more info out of the seller regarding the brakes. Initially he said that it would "likely need all new brake pads, rotors and calipers at a minimum, due to rust." Now, he also just said that the brakes were fine when he parked it four years ago. Now, from my limited experience, even four years isn't enough to seize a brake caliper, though it can certainly take it's toll on rubber brake hoses. I'll be bringing a floor jack with me, along with a fuel pressure gauge and a few other do-hickeys

March 5, 2018

Thanks for all the information! I'm glad to hear the system isn't a horror story. At the moment, I have only seen the car as it sits in the seller's driveway without him there, so I'm getting most of my info from him. As far as the rest of the car, the red interior is in pretty nice shape, though the seats have flattened out. No sunroof or 16 way driver's seat, though it still has the car phone. According to the seller the touchscreen works. The silver paint is faded. It would be getting painted... eventually. Tires hold air but are dry-rotted.

It's kind of funny that almost all of the cars my school has for us students to wreak havoc on are 3800 Buicks. I would sort of know going in what I'd be in for.

With regard to the engine, will the diagnostic program on the CRT tell me anything at to why it isn't starting if it's being caused by a faulty sensor? I don't think any other than the crank position and the mass airflow would cause a no-start

March 5, 2018

Hey Guys,

I'm looking at possibly purchasing a 1989 Reatta as a project. Asking price is $700. Chief problem is that it has been sitting for several years and it doesn't start (though it turns over) and the pedal goes to the floor. Being as though I am in an automotive technology program at college, getting the car running and fitting new brake lines and installing new calipers doesn't really faze me. However, when I went to look at the master cylinder, I realized, oh crap, it has a Teves system. Normally after years of sitting one would either replace the master cylinder or rebuild it to replace the dried out rubber seals inside. Is that still possible with a Teves unit?

Thanks!

Joe

August 21, 2015

I had said the ACRS would be nice, but its not realistic to expect to find one. Whatever I would get would have to have 3 point belts.

August 21, 2015

A friend of mine has a beautiful 1966 Chrysler New Yorker 2 Door with the 440 with every imaginable option including green leather seats. He uses this car as his daily driver. He says that, aside from fuel economy, he loves it. He claims all it has needed basic wear parts and hasn't had a problem with it.

I'm starting to think of going down the same road, with something from the 1970's to the early 80s. So I ask; As far as safety, I would stick to cars with a centrally located fuel tank, front shoulder belts, a dual circuit brake system and a collapsible steering column. If, and I mean IF I could find a full size GM car with the Air Cushion Restraint System, that would be very nice

So, what are the good and the bad of a classic car as a daily driver?

Thanks In Advance!

Joe

August 12, 2015

A candy apple red 1964 Ford Galaxie convertible with a white top and white leather seats, a 427 and a 4 speed

August 12, 2015

Greetings,

Just wondering whether the front drum brakes on a 62 Electra can be switched over to discs, and how hard the conversion would be. I am also planning to replace the master cylinder with a dual setup (with a master cylinder and booster from a 67 Riviera.) Is it just a matter of using the front brakes from a later Electra with front discs? Is there fabrication involved or will they just bolt up?

I'm sorry if this thread has come up before. I couldn't find a search function on this site

Cheers and thanks in advance!

Joe

August 8, 2015

Greetings!

I am just starting out working on my 401 nailhead and I realized something. While I know how its put together, and we all know that its easier to take something apart than to put it together again, there is still a lot I don't know. Once the cylinder head is off, my knowledge ends. When it comes to machining things, grinding crankshafts and doing performance upgrades, I am lost.

I am wondering if anyone here can recommend a book or a website that I can read and learn about this stuff.

Thanks in advance

Joe

August 7, 2015

Greetings!

My name is Joe. I am 25 and live in Jackson, New Jersey. About two years ago, I inherited my grandfather's Electra 225. It had been sitting in a garage since 1986. I was able to get it running *barely* about a year ago. I started a cylinder head rebuild about a year and a half ago, I got it all apart and ground he valves, and is been sitting since.

I plan to start working on it again soon. My big concern is that I will now have to do a full rebuild because he block and cylinder walls have flash rusted over the past year and a half.

The interior is in pretty good shape. One of the power windows is slow, the antenna is stuck and the power seat gear is stripped. But the fabric is in good shape. The dash s cracked, but I've never seen one that isn't.

The body is OK. There is bad rust at the ends of the rockers, the bottoms of the quarter panels and the rear bumper. The floor is also rotted where the front bench bolts in. The front bumper, fenders, hood, doors, deck lid and roof are all fairly rust free. The X-frame seems to be solid, so that's good.

All in all, is going to be a lot of work to get it all together and looking good. My plan at the moment is to get the engine and trans going and the brakes working and get it on the road. then I'll start on the body and interior.