GaryP65
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Posts posted by GaryP65
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Barn find. No longer have time for it.
In storage now. Run & drives. Photo was taken prior to new tires. 5 brand new white walls with about 2 miles on them.
Radiator needs recoring, back seat pan missing. Have door cardboard. Rewired completely. Cleaned out fuel tank & new lines to carb. Generator rebuilt by Myers. Missing runners.
Still has working pull down shades.Ready to be restored
$10k OBO
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Hey guys. I've been traveling a lot for work and well, life.... but i want to resurrect this post.
So I got a chance to finally get her out and do a small but descent test run (several blocks).
Here's what I got but I want to concentrate on just the seemingly flooding issue first;
This is a narrative....
Remember, I have ZERO experience driving this era car!
Started up fine and quick.
Smooth-ish into 1st gear.
2nd gear seemed to make some noise.
3rd gear was much louder.
After about 5-10 mins running it died while turning around in a dead end street.
Would not start again for at least 10 mins or so. I didn't smell gas but my buddy says he did.
One started, scenario repeated itself.
So, to sum up:
While it is off, I notice that gas is leaking out of the carb bowl after a while. This is with the shut off valve below the vacuum open.
While running.... see above!
Could the vacuum tank be the issue?
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So simply put,;
Seat the needle and pour gas in the bowl and see if it pours out of the inlet where the vacuum tank tube attaches....
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No, the pipe between the cylinders.
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So I tried the easy fix first and flipped the levers but still getting gas filling the bowl so I tried to raise the valve seat. I didn't have a thin washer so I put a gasket under it. Still filling the bowl.
I did notice that after running for some time, gas was coming out of the pipe leading to the engine flooding it. I'm sure two separate issues but somethings up!
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Needle has good taper, no grooves. I need to look at the seat.
So in looking at the diagram, it looks like the seat unscrews, correct? Is this the 'collar' mentioned above?
Also, there is a collar that the weights are attached to on the needle. Is this soldered to the needle?
i think i will flip the levers but how are the pins attached? Are they just pressed in?
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One thing that gets me is that I removed the needle valve cap and if i push on the needle, it doesn't move. it seems seated in the valve!
If the levers were worn (and they are a little - who's isn't?), the needle would move a little and I would be able to shut the valve - correct?
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I have this article as well.
I do now agree that it seems to be a float height issue. Unsure on why as there is nothing wrong with the float itself (took it out and submerged it, all good).
I think I need to look at how the float needle sits in the chamber to shut off the supply.
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Vacuum
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I thought it was the float as well but I put in a new one last year but did not submerge it, only shook it to hear for gas. I do not think it's the float.
How do you adjust the arms?
FYI. Just to give you an idea of how I set the metering pin.
I set the adjustment screw in the middle of its travel and installed the bell crank arm to the point where I noticed the metering valve just start to open.
With the adjustment screw in the middle, I thought I would have enough adjustability.
Before all this, I have good range on my choke adjustment. It was able to start well with it pulled out and all the way in once warmed up. Now it starts half way in and doesn't allow for any movement otherwise it won't run well if I move it.
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Thank you but I thought you were referring to something more specific. I have the mechanics manual that has this but it doesn't show how high it should be set at.
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That would be great thank you.
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So now that the holidays are over. I headed out the the garage and took the carb apart and cleaned it completely. Unfortunately i am still having the same issue. Car runs fine but when its off and I return after a few hours, there is gas leaking from the float bowl and possibly the bottom gasket (I say possibly because it may be trickling down from the float). The float is good. No leaks. Needle was removed from the rack and cleaned
Also, anyone have an idea on how to set the needle in the rack prior to assembly? is there a height or is it just suppose to barely open the valve? I feel I asked this before....
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Sorry. forgot to mention that its a 1925. no rubber on needle.
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So I don't know what happened but here's the scenario:
car ran fine, started up with no problems albeit slow turn over.
car died while test driving it, turns out the SG needed help.
sent SG to Meyers, came back, installed, turns the motor over real fast (faster than before)!
now I have gas pouring out of the exhaust pipe at the carb and float bowl.
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Www.faxonautoliterature.com
1914-1927 Dodge Bros. & Graham Bros. Repair Shop Manual Reprint
$28.00
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We know. last time you mentioned it, someone gave you the link to faxons. trust me, get it
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Mathew, he's so right. between the manual and the experts here, I would have never gotten as far as I have.
If it wasn't for this, I would have never gotten my barn find running AND driving.
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14 hours ago, 22touring said:
Mpgp1999, your car is exhibiting the classic signs of retarded timing.
Old timer mechanics used to set DB timing by advancing the rotor in very small amounts until the engine began to run worse with the advance lever all the way up. At that point, retard the rotor to the previous setting. Again, advance it in very small increments, like 1/8" or 1/16".
I tried this when I noticed I had almost zero power going to a small incline. I pulled over, shut her off, popped off the distributor cap, loosen the screw to advance the cam, put it all back together and.......
SOB WOULDN'T START!
FYI. Nothing to do with the above. SG crapped out! can't make this up.
Having fun thou
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Hopefully dropping it off tomorrow. Not sure if they can but at least he said he'll check it out.
Otherwise off to Myers.
Shipping is a pain.
Keep you posted
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Checked the resistance on the 3Rd brush and it comes up with near 0 as well.
Cleaned up the commutator even though it's wasn't too bad.
I still get nothing when I try to start or jump it.
Looks like I'm taking it to the shop.
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Any thoughts on the above would be much appreciated.
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I was writing a whole dissertation but thought photos would explain better.
Or do I need to change the scale?
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Thanks for the info Mike but I'm electrically retarded and don't know how to do the readings. How about some direction? (Talk to me like a 5 yrs old please).
I have a multimeter.
FYI . I have the crank and rotated it but still nothing.
The only thing I did do was to check continuity between the big posts.
FS- 1925 Dodge Sedan
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted · Edited by GaryP65 (see edit history)
FS - Barn Find Dodge Sedan - nickel radiator shield/ cowl light. Just a few miles on new whitewalls. RUNS & DRIVES. Rebuilt generator, rebuilt vacuum pump, new fuel lines, totally rewired, working brakes (hand brake as well). New plugs, wires, points & cap. New fuel gauge. New bulbs throughout. Needs top, fuel advance linkage, re-cored radiator, bottom of rear seat & running boards. Have door cards. Originally from the Buffalo area. Owner believed to be Fuller brush/travelling Salesman before car was stored for many years.
$10,000 OBO