Brianbuick
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Posts posted by Brianbuick
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Scott, I just now saw your post from February. I am attempting a power steering conversion using an aftermarket kit from an outfit called Ezsteer on my 55 Special.,The problem at this point is that the pulleys on the aftermarket pump don’t line up with the water pump and crankshaft pulleys. I’m curious as to whether you got yours done successfully and if so what your experience was.
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I know your post is two years old but thought I would see if it’s still available by any chance.
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The company is called Ezsteer and I found them on Ebay
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Has anybody tried a power steering conversion. I am trying one on a 55 Special with an after market kit and experiencing problems with the pulleys lining up
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Your technique sounds similar to the paintless dent removal that has become so popular, except with the addition of heat. I'll need to get the top tank back from the repair shop before reinstallation. I'll take pictures and then see if I can figure out how to post them.
thanks to both of you for the additional input.
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I have a leaking , probably original,radiator on my 1955 Special. It got me to Springfield and back last year but I don't figure it will heal itself. Identification on the top is: Harrison 3131175 55D R21. The top shell is kind of dented up so it seemed like a good time to improve reliability and appearance by getting a new one. There was a thread from 2013 on the topic and Walker Radiator Works seemed to be highly though of by one contributor. I located Classic Radiators in Farmingdale NY. They look good from their website.
I was just wondering if anybody has any words of wisdom as to what I am contemplating and any experience with either of these two sources, or perhaps others.
Thanks, Brian
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Brian
Since you still have the old MC why not rebuild it? Rockauto.com has Raybestos and AC Delco kits for your manual brake for $12 and $13 respectively. I would try that and return the new one to Kanter.
Since the fitting is smaller and the opening in the end of MC is smaller I think it is probably for the PB system.
In the future I suggest that you try Northwestern Auto Supply (northwesternautosupply.com) for parts you can't get from NAPA or O'Reillys. No online catalog just info on how to contact them. Older guys that know their stuff and great service. I ordered a rebuilt MC from them and sent my core by Priority Mail on Friday and got a rebuilt by Priority Mail on Monday.
I'm in Tulsa also. Send me a PM and I'll send you my phone number.
Bob
Thanks for your input, Bob. Why don't you contact me on my personal email: brianbailey545@gmail.com.
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Are you sure about those sizes , I think you mean 1/8 and 1/4 npt . 3/8 is about 3/4 inch across the outside and 1/2 inch is about 1 inch across the outside .
The line outside diameter ia about 1/4 inch, but what I was referring to was the diameter of the threaded nipple which screws into the MS.
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That makes sense, I'm afraid. I looked into the end of each cylinder, and the hole in the old one is noticeably larger than the one in the replacement. I' ll just have to be patient and wait for Kanter to get back. It does make one wonder what car this cylinder is for in that a reduced volume of fluid comes out of the master. Maybe it's just the end piece of the cylinder that has to be changed out.
Thanks for your input.
Brian
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Why not try a brass adapter/fitting from 3/8 to 1/2 inch?
This can be screwed into the master cylinder and then the brake line is screwed into it
Joe
That's an excellent idea. I am going to try it tomorrow. There are two things that could be bothersome. The first is the lineup of the line to the cylinder, although I imagine a little bending should make that doable. The second issue is whether the flared end of the line will be snugged down to the mating surface inside the master cylinder opening. It's worth a try.
Thanks. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Brian
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I'm in the final stages of brake system rebuild on my 1955 Special. It's no power brakes. As I went to line up the main line coming out of the master with the opening at the end of the master cylinder I discover that the opening in the master cylinder which I got from Kanter several months ago is 3/8". The fitting on the line is 1/2" as is the opening on the old master. I'm sure the old master and all lines are original.
I'm wondering if anyone has come across this before. I have a call in to customer service at Kanter to see what their remedy is. No response yet. I'm starting to get a little anxious because the national meet is not far off.
Brian
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T
[ATTACH=CONFIG]306911[/ATTACH]I purchased one of these. Makes bleeding the brakes very easy. Once you have bled the master on the bench and reinstalled use this vacuum brake bleeder. Allow the fluid to gravity bleed to the cylinders. This mean opening all the bleeders and letting gravity do it's job. Once they are dripping close all the bleeders and use this tool on each cylinder. Make sure you keep the fluid in the master full as you bleed each cylinder.
Thanks for for your response. I have one of those; mine is called Mityvac. I've used it successfully to bleed at the wheel cylinders but didn't think of using it to bench bleed the master cylinder. All the utube how to's showed using a bleeding kit, running a clear line from the master cylinder output back up to the reservoir and slowly pushing the push rod in and out until bubbles no longer appear in the line.
Have you used the vacuum device to bench bleed the master cylinder?
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I am in the final stages (I think) of complete brake system overhaul - new cylinders, hoses, lines and master. It all began whenI discovered no brakes in back, and the cause was total blockage of hose connecting frame to back wheel lines. Two new back lines installed. Just got the master out. One of the three bolts gave me fits.
Next step is bleeding the new master. I've watched several how-to videos of varying quality but none with masters of my vintage - "55 Special no power. It sounds like I can get a bleeder kit at an auto parts store.
I'm looking for input from anyone who has had hands on experience with the bleeding process for words of wisdom. I still need to run the line from the master to what I call the distributor and of course the three lines going out from it, so any advise there will be accepted with great appreciation.
Brian
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Yes, one side just bends up do you can slide the lines in and out.
SUCCESS! Because the end of the clamp was on top and difficult to get at I used a pipe wrench to get it started and then inserted the screwdriver. New lines are on order from Inline. Hopefully the brackets have one more bend to them. From other advise received along the way I know not to fasten brake cylinders to backing plates or "T" junction to the frame until lines are attached.
The next challenge is getting the line out of the master cylinder. Keep hitting with Liquid Wrench and one of these times it will brake free. I sure don't want to have to replace that line.
Thanks for all the advise to date.
Brian
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Whoa!!!
Just pry em up with a screwdriver, then after you install the new lines (I would recommend Inline), bend them back over with a rubber hammer.
Thanks for the tip. I took one look at them and didn't think they would bend. I'll let you know.
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Sounds like a plan, as soon as daytime temp gets back above 40.
I'm back after a bout of cold weather and no heat in garage. Because of several helpful suggestions I have the hose section that goes from the frame to the torque tube off. In the course of trying to free the other end I broke off one of the brake lines going down the strut rod. Realizing I was going to have to replace that one I went ahead and cut the other. It was just as well as getting that hose out was a struggle, even removed and in the vise.
Upon removing the hose the explanation for the lack of fluid to the back wheels was apparent. The interior of the hose had deteriorated, completely blocking it.
While I'm making headway I now have to replace the lines going back along the strut rods to the rear axle. They are firmly held in place by C shaped brackets that are spot welded to the strut rod. Is there any solution other than drilling out those welds ( a lot of flat-on-the -back time ) and rewelding?
Brian
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Cut the old hose close to the brass fitting and use a 6-point socket. It seems that the exact length is never available, but an extra inch should not be a problem.
Willie
Sounds like a plan, as soon as daytime temp gets back above 40.
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Yes, I am using what I think is a flare wrench (a box wrench with the end open enough to slip over the brake line) with another wrench on the brass fitting on the hose. There's a lot of play between the wrench and the fitting so I can't really push it. I'm using visegrips.
I have all new hoses although it's curious that when I hold them up against the currently installed ones they are about 1 inch longer and thus will have a bit of a bow to them. I called back to the vendor - Kanter if I recall - and all they knew was that these were the correct ones. They are meant to flex so I guess they are alright.
Yes, I am installing all new brake cylinders. That's actually what started all this. After replacing the two back ones, thinking that would solve the lack of braking at the back wheels, I came to realize that there was no fluid coming thru the lines. I tried the usual (mama at the brake petal) and the vacuum at the cylinder end of the line. Nada.
Brian
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I've found that the first culprit in clogged brake lines are the soft brake hoses. There is one central hose on the 55 that bridges from the frame to the torque tube in the center of the car. That is where I would start.
Adam, your observation is very helpful. I wondered if brake hoses break down on the inside and hopefully will soon find out. I have been working in trying to get that one off, so far with no success. Hitting it with penetrating oil, working it, more penetrating oil. When I get it off I will make a determination of whether to replace the lines.
i particularly appreciate the opinions regarding replacement, doing my self, etc. I checked out Inline Tubing. I had never heard of them; they seem like a great source. If I go ahead and replace lines I will get preformed steel lines from them.
Brian
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I am reactivating my 1955 Buick Special which has been little driven for a number of years. The most significant impact has been on the brake system. The rear brakes were not working at all. I checked adjustment - that was OK - and then replaced the rear cylinders. In the course of trying to bleed them I came to find out that no fluid was coming through, which brings me to my question.
it seems that this might be a good time to replace the brake lines. Kanter has a stainless set for $219. I have new master and hoses as well.
My first question is whether it makes sense to take that drastic action versus simply clearing out the lines to the back wheels
My second question is, if I do replace them, whether anyone has had experience with brake lines from Kanter. I have bought many things from them in the past and have never been dissatisfied.
My third question relates to the wisdom of replacing the lines myself versus taking everything in to a reliable shop and having it done professionally. Having never done this, I am uncertain as to what I may be getting into.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Brian
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He's done a lot of Mopar stuff, too, over the years. One of the "lifers" in that industry. By the same token, some of that stuff could well be on YouTube, IF you have the time to filter through other things (like video car "for sale" ads), but that could take weeks.
Happy Holidays!
NTX5467
Thanks for the feedback. That's all I need to know.
Brian
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I just received a solicitation from a Charles Dart in Mobile, AL for a two hour DVD that is a combination of Buick promotional films as well as some tech stuff in my case for a 1955 Buick. It's $33 and appears reasonable. Just wondering if some of you old timers can give me a Housekeeping Seal of Approval on this guy.
thanks, Brian
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New to this discussion. Bought a 54 Century a month ago and horn is a bypass button under the dash. Would like to restore it to the steering wheel. The relay on the column (with the 2 screws) is gone, but I found one and can order it, NOS. In the glove box is an in-tact brass slipring with a short white wire soldered to it. I guess someone had the whole thing apart if this is off its shaft. Took off the horn ring from the steering wheel and inside the steering shaft is the spring loaded connector for the horn button with a white wire attached but it is not connected to anything -- it is about 2 feet long, just hanging inside the shaft. Does someone know how this long white wire makes contact with the horn relay? The shaft turns when steering of course, so if the wire goes through a hole in the shaft, it would get tangled. I think I'm smart, sometimes, but can't figure this one out. I suppose to fix this, I will have to take it all apart, but would like to know how it connects before I start. Thanks for any advice.
Follow up - I saw a photo of the slipring on another post and I see how it turns when the wheel turns and the relay touches it constantly. So my question is answered, BUT, where can I find the rubber bushing that goes in between the slipring and the shaft? Or, can I make one out of something else? Thanks...
Are you sure that the slip ring on the steering shaft is bad? Maybe the failure is where the wire is soldered to the slip ring. If you peruse the preceding 96 entries to this thread it will help in your analysis.
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I'm a bit out of my depth regards the "standard" button type horn. That said, there has to be a some type of contact assembly under the button. That would be the "spring loaded switch". I'm speculating the short to ground you have is in the spring loaded switch or the adjustment of it....................Bob
That's where I will focus. Thanks for the continued input.
Brian
Power steering conversion
in Buick - Post War
Posted
At this point I am looking for an oem pump, brackets and pulley to mate with the aftermarket gear box.