Thoffs
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Posts posted by Thoffs
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31 minutes ago, starlightcoupe said:
Tim,
There should be a pan between the frame and the engine that has a hole in it just under the carb. That hole lets the excess gas go to the ground, rather than fumes under the bonnet.
Brad I have had the carburetor's (I have 2) on and off the manifold probably 20 times so far. To finally get the car to idle and run properly I combined parts from both Carburetors. I just don't remember it dripping that much fuel when I first got the car running. My tube does extend through the hole in the metal shield. I had one carb rebuilt locally and the other by Dave Thibeault.
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Thank you, I'll run the engine, get it hot then shut it off and put a measuring cup under the tube to catch and measure the amount of fuel that drips out. When I cleaned up the garage floor, the wet spot was probably about 15" in diameter. Do you need a picture of the carburetor dripping.
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My UR-2 carburetor has a fitting and a piece of copper tubing attached to the bottom of the carb., after the engine is shut off fuel drips from it.
i don't think that is normal, I assume it to be some kind of vent. Is the float allowing the carb to overfill, I'm afraid of a possible fire. The carburetor was recently rebuilt. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Brad I had two motors and I sent them to Ficken, he told me they were warped and couldn't be repaired. So I have no wipers on my Rockne, plus I have no vacuum either.
So I think I will look for some kind of electric motor I could attach. Two things I have never been able to get working on my 33, wipers and the King-Seely fuel gauge.
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Jorge, that is terrible I don't know how they could loose something that big. If you have one of each part you may have to have them cast out of bronze. Then you would need to metal finish for ft and then chrome them. I don't know where you would find them, you can try Dave Babcock first. Good Luck and best wishes, Tim.
PS. Jorge I went to the International wet in Mansfield Ohio just three eels ago and talked to several vendors, no one had any Rockne parts. Did you ever here anything from the fellow that knew someone who had Rockne parts for sale. I haven't seen anything more about them on the forum.
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Jorge, that is terrible I don't know how they could loose something that big. If you have one of each part you may have to have them cast out of bronze. Then you would need to metal finish for ft and then chrome them. I don't know where you would find them, you can try Dave Babcock first. Good Luck and best wishes, Tim.
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Does anyone know if there is someone that restores these, I have one on my 1933 Rockne that the porcelein is chipping out of the cloisonné. I would like to possibly get it restored.
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John, I made my own bracket out of stainless steel with 2 stainless set screws. Bought the mirrors off of eBay and assembled them. I had to make longer hinge pins and I put mirrors on both front doors.
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I am also interested in what might be available. I am interested in front brake cables and front brake shoes. 419-334-3172 or email me
thoffs@woh.rr.com.
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I have adjusted the eccentric's and the turnbuckles and I do not have enough take up to activate the front brakes. I think after the car show season is over I am going to disassemble the front brake drums to see if I have everything put together right. I put all new brake springs on all four wheels a couple of years ago, but since I restored the car I have never had front brakes. It stops but I drive it with great caution.
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Any help or contact information would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Need to find and purchase a pair of front mechanical brake cables for my 1933 Rockne 4 Door Sedan Deluxe. Evidently mine are stretched and their is no adjustment left and as a result I don't have any front braking. I hope someone has these cables.
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Need to find and purchase a pair of front mechanical brake cables for my 1933 Rockne 4 Door Sedan Deluxe. Evidently mine are stretched and their is no adjustment left and as a result I don't have any front braking. I hope someone has these cables.
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I was able to find and purchase (2) of them #510068 from Gaskit City.
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Yes it is, gasket is just a ring that slides down over the baffle. Should be approximately 1.625" I.D. X 2.00" O.D. X .060" thick. If you have them I will take two, give me a phone number and I'll call you with a credit card number. Thanks Tim.
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Like the bumper bolts and door hinge pins, if you have access to a lathe or contact a machine shop and have them made out of stainless steel. I made set of front door hinge pins and brackets for my Rockne so I could install side mirrors.
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I do not have a parts book or a parts listing for my 1933 Rockne, but I had bought a manifold heater valve gasket from Custom Antique Parts. I believe they are no longer in business do to health reasons. His part number was #510068, I don't know if this was his numbering system or Studebakers. Any help would be appreciated. Thoffs.
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Looking for a ring seal that fits over the baffle on the heat deflector insert that bolts into the middle top of the exhaust manifold. Please advise where I could purchase one.
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Looking for a ring seal that fits over the baffle on the heat deflector insert that bolts into the middle top of the exhaust manifold. Please advise where I could purchase one. Approximate size is 1.625" I.D. X 2.00" O.D. X .060" thick.
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Running the same kind of fuel delivery system as original but all new lines from gas tank to carburetor. I have two Carburetors and both are built the same. I think I have the 2nd one working ok right now. Tinkered with it all day today.
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2 hours ago, carbking said:
The Stromberg UR-2 used two different floats: (1) float arm on top of float, and (2) float arm on bottom of float. The settings are significantly different. Which do you have?
Also, are you still running the original fuel delivery system, or has an electric pump been added?
Jon.
Float arm on top of float, float pivots up.
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On my 1933 Rockne Model 10 the carburetor keeps leaking fuel out of the accelerator pump rod hole. I set the float according to the manual at 23/64" from bottom of the cover to float using a drill bit. Would the float needle valve not closing all the way be the problem, will I have to replace it. Or is there an adjustment I need to make.
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Do you still have the Rockne tnsmission?
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I got my rear window rubber from Mac's Auto Parts. They have on line catalogue and are suppliers for mostly Ford parts from model T on up including model A parts. When I received my Rockne all the windows were out so I had to find what I thought would work.
1933 ROCKNE 10 DELUX PARTS CAR
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
If you don't sell it I would part it out. Looks like you could make a good chunk of change from door handles, engine, trans , gauges etc.
You wouldn't happen to have a nos set of 1933 Rockne King pins for the steering, my steering seems sloppy.