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sweetpotato

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Posts posted by sweetpotato

  1. 1953 Buick Special,    263CI Straight Eight.  Standard Transmission.  Recent restoration.
    New or Rebuilt:  Battery, Hoses, Shocks, Brakes, Tires, Paint, Windshield, Wiper Motor, Carburetor, Radio, Torque Tube Seals, Pedals, Interior-Seats, Headliner, Carpet, Door panels, Booster Electric Fuel Pump, Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate, Horn Relay, Window glass &channels, Seat Belts, Radiator.   Many parts re-chromed.  Transmission rebuilt.  Many small restoration parts, gaskets, hardware, clips, seals, etc.    RECEIPTS AVAILABLE.    ASKING $14,350  Reasonable offers will be considered.

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  2. I do remember that the plate was painted over with the body color when I removed it.  In fact you can see a small residue of red in one of the letters that I missed when I put it on the wire wheel before I put it back on.  Do any of the numbers indicate what time of year the car was built?  Maybe the engine S/N would show that?  Anyway, thanks for all that info.  I'm always amazed at the amount of information you have on our Buicks.

    Carole and I had a great long Black Friday tour in the Buick yesterday.... lots of thumbs up and o.k's.  We have noticed that small kids have a lot of interest in and appreciation of our old cars, often more than the adults they are with.  Don't know why that is but I'll take it as a good omen for the future.   Bob

  3. Thanks Al for all the paint info.   The paint no. on my i.d. plate is 72 which I think is Carlsbad black top and Matador red bottom.  Is that right?   When I got the car the old, apparently original, colors were black top and red bottom.   And when I stripped/sanded the car I didn't see anything different.  The trim no. on the plate is 41.  According to your information  the lower dash should be the light grey if the upper dash is black.  I don't think any part of the car was ever repainted and the upper dash was black. The original lower dash definitely had that green look so I'm wondering if there could have been some cars that didn't follow that rule.  This car was built in Kansas City.   Thanks,  Bob

     

     

     

     

  4. Looks great Pat.  The color appears to be very close to mine.  I believe we both, separately, probably got it about right.    I think your grandfather would probably recognize that color as close to the way it looked out of the showroom.          Bob

  5. Attached are pictures of the lower dash of my '53 Special 41D.  I, too, took the glove box door with the original color to my local Dupont paint supplier.  He matched it electronically and it visually was, in my opinion, also a near perfect match.  The color is a metallic Ful Cryl (Nason).  It has a very slight green cast to it.  The number on the can is 334371.
    Bob

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  6. 20 minutes ago, old-tank said:

    Look up in the track area of the that door for something sharp that might be contacting the glass.  If the glass survives the cutting and sanding and installation it should survive normal use.

    I'll do that

  7. Unfortunately, my local glass shop made the one that I have now and is cracked.  It was definitely cheap but you can see where the crack started at a small chip between the laminates where they sanded it on top.   These "classic" glass shops do give you a good, polished edge product but Bhigdog is right about the price.   When you live in the mountains there aren't a lot of glass shops.

  8. 52 minutes ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:

    Bob:

    Measure the opening along the side of the existing radiator to see if the 50-52 radiator will fit.     The reason I say this is because my 53 Special with  Dynaflow radiator core is 22" wide and there was no problem fitting the re-cored radiator in place.   I doubt that Buick built the front end with different dimensions, one for the cars with Dynaflow and another for cars with conventional transmission.  The side brackets may be different for each radiator but the opening in the body should be the same.  You may have to fabricate narrower side brackets or possibly cut yours to be narrower to fit a 22" by 22" core.   You will also get somewhat better cooling capacity as the 50-52 core is slightly bigger.

    I will check the parts book to see what they list for side brackets.

    Joe

    Joe,  It looks like the opening on the car is probably the same as a Dynaflow car.  It is 23 3/8 inches.  That is why they attached the wide (4 inch) mounting bracket to the passenger side of the 18 3/4 inch wide conventional transmission core.  Definitely should get better cooling with the 22 inch radiator.  I might have to do some creative fabrication on the mounting brackets and hoses.

  9. 14 minutes ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:

    The 53 Buick Special w/o  Dynaflow radiator is listed in the Buick parts book in Group 1.219 with Part # 3130075.   According to Hollanders Interchange Manual the core should fit 1950-52 series 40,50 w/o Dynaflow and 1955 series 40 w/o Dynaflow.    Note that the parts book does list different radiators for the 1950-52 series 40,50 and the 1955 series 40 w/o Dynaflow however, Hollanders indicates the cores interchange.   So it would seem that there are slight differences in the upper and/or lower tanks for the 1950-52 and the 1953.  Of course I cannot guarantee that these will interchange but the Hollanders data is encouraging.  

    I was able to get my 53 Buick radiator with Dynaflow re-cored by a local radiator shop some years ago, but it was not cheap.  Looks original and has worked very well.

    Joe, BCA 33493

    Thanks for the research Joe.  I wish someone was building the 3130075 but I guess it's supply and demand.  The 3123756 ('50-'52)  shows a core size of 22X22.  http://classicfordradiator.com/1950-52-new-buick-3-row-radiator-regular-core-design-313-1.aspx

    My OEM core is 22 1/4 high by 18 3/4 wide.          Bob

  10. Yep, the mounts are at an angle.  I'm leaning more toward getting these tanks re-cored or going to the 50-52 Buick one (brass and copper) which has the inlet and outlet in the right place and at the right angle.  Re-plumbing for the upper which is centered on the Al one and dealing with the straight rather than ell lower and then maybe not having good fan clearance sounds like not worth the "savings".

    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, HoboBuick said:

    Can you share more info about the radiator? I am running a 55-59 Chevy truck radiator. Bit of a bear to make it fit, but same deal-$200, not a show car and it was close in fitment.

    Do you mean my orig. radiator or the aluminum '47-54 chevy one?  It is on ebay at radiators4less.

  12. Joe,  I do not have the nipple on the bottom.  This is a standard transmission series 40. The stampings on the top tank are:

                 Harrison    3130075  53f    R-21

    The mounting flange on the passenger side is 4 inches wide and the flange on the driver side is 2 inches wide. This setup moves the radiator over to the driver side enough to center it on the fan.

  13. I'm in a little mountain town in east-central Arizona. No big city within 200 miles so not a lot of options on radiator shops. He did say he could re-core it but just the core would be over $500. I can't afford that so, since this is not a show car but more of a daily driver that's why I was looking at adapting a $200 alternative.

  14. During the fourth of July parade my radiator sprung a serious leak. My local radiator shop said he is not able to repair it because it is a heater core type and not a tube type. I have found on ebay an all aluminum three row radiator for a 47-54 chevy truck which has stamped tanks and looks somewhat like mine. The measurements are close and the inlet and outlet are relatively close to being in the right place. I think I can make it work with some modification of the mounting fins.
    I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with one of these?

  15. It is a '51 special but I went by there yesterday and they won't sell the manifold off of it. They want to keep the engine intact so that plan is out. I'm not having any luck on the internet, ebay, etc. CARS has a repop for about $700. Can't afford that. Is it feasible to weld, mig, tig, braze it or is that a waste of time and money?

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