flintbuick
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Posts posted by flintbuick
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I am looking to buy the following parts for a 1941 Buick Super Sport coupe. The car is far from a show car but I would like to find the parts to get it running and driving again. It was recently found sitting in a horse barn.
Turn Signal switch assembly or parts, **MOST NEEDED**
Horn Ring and Plate
Instrument Cluster and Dash engine turned plate ( New shiny ones would look out of place on this car, prefer an original even if rough piece)
Rear Fender Gravel Guard Rubbers ( brand new ones are out the budget at this time)
Rear Trunk Emblem
Front Grille Emblem
Thank you,
Jeremy
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still available?
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still available?
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I have recently been forced to acquire a 41 Super Sport coupe that has been taking up occupancy in a horse barn for a few decades. The ignition coil is dead and after some internet browsing it appears the coil is hard to come by. Does anyone know of a source for the OEM style or have ideas on how to use a regular top two terminal style without it looking terrible. I'm assuming the armored cable was an attempt to circumvent radio interference?
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Thought i would share this great story from local Back to the Bricks car show 2014
http://www.mlive.com/news/flint/index.ssf/2014/08/flushing_man_journeys_a_1956_b.html
Some great looking 1952 specials too....... :cool:
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Check out this simple mount from Scarebird, they also have a disk conversion bracket and bearing for the front https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=123
I did this on my 52 special. I made my own bracket and used the stock mounting bolt holes in the frame. Then mounted the reservoirs on the fuse panel access cover. Factory pedal and linkage system to the new pushrod. The pedal seems to have a lot of travel before it gets firm but will stop the car and lock the brakes a few inches above the toe board. Still running the 4 drum brakes. However this master will still work if disc brakes are added in future. Well worth the money and safety of dual output and dual reservoir.
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Well that wasn't fun, but shes fixed. Ended up using a 1/4x20x5/8 Socket shoulder die bolt with a stover nut. Learned some valuable lessons. Like the hydraulic shift linkage is not adjustable once installed :mad:. Also learned the wife was completely grossed out by me having dirt and ATF in my hair.
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I would give Jim Hughes a call and ask him. He might even be able to sell you a new pin and/or assembly. So was the broken pin the source of the binding you felt?
Yes the pawl is completely free from the linkage assembly causing the linkage to bind at the bottom of its stroke preventing reverse servo from engaging. So long story short i got another transmission from another buick enthusiast today to use the parking pawl assembly from. Just my luck after getting home that same pin is broken on this transmission too. So im going to install a 1/4 20 shoulder bolt, lock nut and hope for the best. I just need to source a gasket or try to cut my own. It is a very thin gasket material. Apparently this is a common failure on early dynaflows.
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Wel found the problem. One of the pins that go through the parking paw is broken. Will a roll pin and 2 eclips hold up ok? Or do I need to find a new parking pawl assembly. The origanl pin was peened into place.
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I have the transmission disconnected from the linkage. It will not physically move to the Reverse position. It will move to park but will not engage the parking paw. The grinding noise only happened for a few seconds. This was when it was on jack stands and only on jack stands. The fan belt was also removed when this happened. After i put the tires on and the car on the ground the noise never happened again. Everything seemed normal until i tried to back out of the garage and discovered i could not put it into reverse.
Can i remove the ball joint housing to view the parking paw and or linkage to it? Im assuming there most be a common problem between something mechanically moving the reverse and parking sections of the transmission.
This is a such a bummer here in Flint is the start of a week long car show and i have a broken car.
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The jack stands were on the frame. 2 right behind the front wheels and 2 right in front the rear wheels where the x meets the outside frame rails. I'm thinking the linkage got stretched or damaged internally. Drives fine in forward gears.
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Bad mounts will prevent it from going into reverse? I took the linkage off the shifter and still can not get it to move to the reverse position. Will move to the park position but the park pawl does not engage. Both of these are new problems that weren't there before she was put up on jack stands.
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I need some help. Car was on jack stands for a few days to install new tires. While it was up on stands I decided to change my exhaust/ intake gaskets. I started up after installation and it was making a terrible grinding noise. I shut it down after only a few seconds. Now the car is back on all 4 tires and no terrible noise everything is good until I try to backup. The shifter will not physically move into reverse. I even tried removing the column linkage. I also don't have park. It will move onto park but it will not hold the car. I have neutral, drive and low. Is the mechanical linkage inside the trans broken?
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Any one have any ideas or input? This is going to take a while and the weather is getting nice!! If i thought the cardboard would hold my gas tank i would just paint it black and drive it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]245552[/ATTACH]
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Hey welcome to the Mit. Go ahead and start making hub cup leashes for an easy retrieval. Woodward Dream cruise, Flint Back to the bricks, Sloan Auto Fest, Midland Car show, Frankenmuth Autofest, and Billetproof are some of my local big events in late summer.
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I was wondering if anyone knows how close a 52 Olds 88 trunk pan is to my 52 buick special trunk pan.
Classic 2 current has this for 129 bucks, and appears to be very similar to my trunk pan. Or would i be better starting from scratch?
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I will keep my old tank which is probably original. The car sat for 25 years before i got it. The gas that was left was a nasty smelly rusty mess. I did a pretty good job on the tank with Evaporust and metal chain however i was still having issues with clogged fuel filters every 50 miles. So for frustration sake i decided to go new. Local prices around here for a Renu was 250.00 so I figured a brand new tank was better at the same price.
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So its 12.5 inches from from tank pinch weld to center of the neck. Which is the B1-A tank. I ordered a new tank, sender and fuel neck for 300 bucks shipped to my door from Tanks Inc. I will post pictures and thoughts in case anyone else is interested.
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I was curious as well however every new tank i can find has this same issue. I was thinking that if the filler neck was butted tight against the tank stub and then hose clamped with stiff rubber filler neck hose that it would be rigid enough.
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My 52 is currently is in storage and not easy for me to access. I'm looking to order a new tank but need a good measurement from the front of the tank to center of the filler neck.
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I have confirmed the float level by pulling the plug while its running and it wets the threads.
I am pretty confident i have the needle in right but its worth looking into.
According to pertronix tech department and their application guide that is the best coil for a 8 cylinder with points.
I have heard of the 3 way fuel filter. Isnt that a chrysler OEM filter?
I will throw in some marvel mystery.
Thanks everyone for the brain scratching.
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Vapor lock has been on my mind. I often wonder about the routing of the fuel line. It runs straight up from the fuel pump up in front of the water goose neck and then turn towards the carb in a big sweep. I think i am going to play around with an electric pump at the tank to push to the stock fuel pump with a momentary push button used just for hot starting problems. Usually the only way i can get it to start is to place my hand over the intake while cranking, or let it cool down. I have taken temp readings on the base plate of the carb at around 108F. Thats what makes me think fuel boiling.
Here in Michigan state law does not require labeling of ethanol content in their pumps. I have asked a few pimple faces at the register but they had no idea what i was talking about.
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OK,
So my buick does not like to start up when shes hot. She cranks fine but will not fire. When cold it will fire in about 3 cranks. It will also start fine if shut down and then restart within a few minutes. However if i let it sit about 5 to 10 minutes i will have to wait an hour before i am motoring again.
Here is a list of new parts and motor condition,
brand new rings and rod bearings
new battery
new 00 cables
new starter
new pertronix flame thrower 2 coil
new points
new condenser
new plugs
new wires (solid coppers)
rebuilt carb
new valve job and guides
160 high flow stat
new radiator
factory exhaust and intake
heat riser valve is stuck in the full bypass postion
Stock mechanical fuel pump, tank and fuel lines.
thick 1 inch carb spacer
Timing is slightly more advanced than factory specs, car runs on the road great and doesn't ping under load. I set the choke at cold (75 ambient air temp) to just close the choke valve and it runs smooth until the choke is opened fully by the bi metal. Around 1 1/2 turns out from soft seat on the idle adjust screws. I am running ethanol gas and wonder if i am having fuel percolation problems. I also very slowly push the gas pedal to full open on hot start.
Any ideas???
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Buy Speed Bleeders. When you have no one to pump the brakes for you and the wife is busy cooking dinner, speed bleeders are the way to go. Just swap the bleed screws and then crack them open and pump away. A check valve allows fluid to exit but prevents air from going back in. Just make sure to close it when you are done and make sure to keep an eye on your fluid level.
Also I made a bracket for my car and installed a tandem master cylinder with remote reservoirs from wilwood. Its the same 1 inch bore but offers the safety of a dual circuit and dual reservoir. Makes it a lot easier to fill the brake fluid too. I mounted the reservoirs on the fuse access panel on the firewall. I am not a huge fan of the plastic reservoirs but i figure out something better someday.
1949 Plymouth Engine and trans for sale
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
I have a Plymouth 1949 flat head straight six with 3 speed trans. The engine is complete with running accessories and is mounted to a test stand with radiator and starter. Long story but a friends grandfather had it for his 48 Desoto. Has been sitting in a barn for about 15 years but turns over fine. Needs to go to a good home. Asking 500 dollars sold complete only, no part out. Located near Flint Michigan.