fast_dave
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Posts posted by fast_dave
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What about when using a PerTronix 1181 ignitor points eliminator?
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Hey Guys -
Vehicle: 1965 Buick Riviera GS with all electric options.
Around 5 years ago, during a full body restoration, the car suffered an electrical mishap that obviously damaged the electrical system.
Since then, there's been a few self proclaimed auto electricians that have had their hands into the electrical system, BUT the car continues to have electrical issues.
Hot wiring harness and the acrid smell of electrical system smoke has dictated that for the safety of the car, it's just stayed parked in a garage for 5 years.
I know that this description of the electrical issues this car is experiencing is described in a broad stroke, but that's where it's at.
I also know this subject has been discussed before, but the times are quickly changing as these rare GS cars, especially well-optioned and well documented examples continue to increase in value.
So - with that said, is there anybody in the US that has stepped up to the plate and specializes in refurbishing/renewing/replacing the electrical systems on these 1st Gen Cars?
Somebody that has so successfully done this that they are gaining a reputation as the "Go To Guy"?
Thanks and looking forward to your replies,
fast_dave
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32 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Fast-Dave,
In your copy of the Riview, read Ray's comments on Rally America. Page 30, third column in the latest issue.
RivNut/Ed - Minutes before I re-checked this thread for any activity, I was just looking in the CLASSIFIEDS of this month's RIVIEW and saw the note from RAY that Rally America is not accepting Riviera Wheels for re-chrome work...
Guess I'll have to continue researching this subject on the 'Net...
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Bringing this tread back from the dead:
Can anyone recommend a firm that can be trusted to refurbish and re-chrome/repaint original 65 GS Rims?
By refurbish - to clarify - I mean that they can check each wheel for trueness, and repair if necessary.
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22 hours ago, KongaMan said:
What is "this"? You still haven't told us specifically what the problems are. Does it not register full? Does it not register empty? Does it not move? Does it bounce around?
Diagnosis is a lot easier when you know the symptoms...
I agree - I'm trying to get the whole story as well.
My bro-in-law thinks that all this can be solved by throwing parts at it.
From reading what you guys have written, I can clearly see that it's not that simple, and know that if I blindly get involved, I will spend a LOT of time at the post office sending parts over and over and over.
Thanks for bearing with me - I'm pulling teeth in Sweden (over the internet) trying to establish what the gas gauge is "indicating"
I will keep you all advise and thank ALL of you heartily for ALL of your help.
Special shout-out to Alini and KongaMan
Sincerely, fast_dave
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8 hours ago, alini said:
The gauge itself has three connections. A power from the circuit card a ground thru the circuit card and the wire to the sending unit. You can disconnect the sending unit as a point behind the license plate and ground it. The gauge should move. With it the wire disconnected the gauge should read full with it grounded it goes to E. if it swings at all the gauge is right it's the sending unit that's bad
My bad - I'm having a little trouble understanding this, could you please clarify ?!
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OK - the firm in Sweden that did the frame-off restoration installed the battery cables onto the wrong battery posts...
Positive to Negtive, and Negative to Positive...
I'm told that somehow the car started with this issue, BUT major electrical issues followed - this being one of them.
Apparently two auto electrical shops in Sweden have rewired the car, but this is an outstanding issue.
I do not know if the 2 electrical shops have PROPERLY tested the fuel gauge and tank sending gauge, OR are just throwing their hands up and thinking that replacement parts should be thrown at the problem.
From your posts I understand that these parts weren't standardized (63, 64, 65) and I'm just here trying to prevent my bro-in-law throwing parts & money at it.
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Thanks for ALL of the replies, guys! LOTS of great info!!!
Looks like I'll have my bro-in-law start by applying the K.I.S.S. principle, and start by checking for any obvious wire disconnection at the Tank Fuel Sending Unit.
Beyond that, going towards "step 2" - allow me to throw this question into the ring:
Is there an gas gauge/fuel sender fuse or circuit that can get "shorted out" or "fried" when doing a frame off restoration ???
I know the electrics in Riv's are it's Achilles Heel, and during a restoration moving around wiring harness' that have been in place 51 years can cause issues...
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My bro-in-laws 65 Riv GS (with factory A/C) had a frame off restoration, and we've come to find out that the restorer shorted out the either:
- the in tank fuel sender
- or the gas gauge
- or both...
First question:
- Is the Dashboard Fuel Indication Gauge from a 63, 64, 65 "UNIVERSAL" or did GM make a different one for each model or?
First Observation:
- I'm told that the factory equipped A/C Rives have two (2) fuel lines going to the fuel tank sender unit - is this the case?
Thanks in advance for your help as we try to figure this out!
fast_dave
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In my 30+ years of working on cars, one thing I've learned is that the manufacturer builds the entire vehicle around the heater core. My vote is to rebuild or replace it now while you have easy access.
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Here is another option. http://classicexhaustinc.com/
I've installed a handful of mail order systems on 66-67s. Be prepared that any mail order system for a Riviera that has such complex bends may require lots of finesse and patience to install it properly. Sometimes when pieces don't fit they will have to send you another one. When buying a mail order system make sure you understand exactly what you are getting as far as clamps and flanges. Somtimes they have to be ordered separately. Mail order systems are fine if your car isn't road worthy or you just can't stand someone else working on your car which the latter is why I use mail order.
Having said that I agree with John that if you have a local "competant" exhaust shop get an estimate from them. No need for them to cut and weld as the original patterns are available if they have bending equipment and know how to use it. It may be 40-50% more than a mail order system but depending how much patience and skill you have, that 50% could end up not looking so bad.
Classic Exhaust sells their systems on Ebay, and that's how my bro-in-law "Leif" in Sweden found them. He asked me to check them out, and I contacted them via e-mail and telephone. Communication w/ Classic was always prompt, efficient, and answered our many questions. When my-bro-in law Leif and I were satisfied, the "trigger" was finally pulled, and I worked with Classic Exhaust to provide an entire STAINLESS exhaust system for my bro-in-laws 65 GS, and together we worked with a freight forwarder to ship it on to Sweden (via DHL Air Freight). In six days, the exhaust system arrived in Sweden in perfect condition. I visited Sweden this summer, and got to see the installed exhaust system while the Riv was on a lift - it was flawless and looked like a factory fit. I also met "Mr. Jocke Bengtson" the local legend in Harnosand Sweden that installed and welded up the complete exhaust system. He said that it fit PERFECTLY and required no "big hammer" fitting whatsoever, it slid in like it came from Buick. Jocke said he wouldn't hesitate recommending Classic Exhaust's work to anyone who was considering them, and Leif and I also agree. Hope that helps!
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Thanks guys - I will pass this info on!
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A good friend of my bro-in-law in Sweden has a 1968 Chrysler 300 with Disc Brakes.
The passenger side lower ball joint has gone bad and the only supplier we can find that can provide this part is Rare Parts in Stockton CA.
Rare Parts wants the core (entire lower control arm) for each side in addition to $345 X (2) = $690 TOTAL w/o Shipping to repair both sides!!!
Question: I don't think this is rocket science, but rather a case of only one guy in the US choosing to provide this service.
Any guess as to what lower ball joint Rare Parts is using to rebuild the lower control arm, and if there is any other industrial shop that could provide this service (like a driveline shop)????
Any ideas are appreciated!
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A little look at an actuator at work
$55 - $65 for a "12 volt Liner Actuator" on Ebay Motors
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Art,
Only ONE CV Re-Build kit is needed!
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OK - A quick phone call to CARS cleared this up - so for thread closure here's the answer.
CVK610-4 & CVK610-2 are THE SAME EXACT PART.
When I asked why they have two different part numbers, the reply was that the part fits a number of different BUICK applications - BUT - due to SKU Numbering over a number of different catalogs, they list different "dash" numbers. Dash 4 is for Rivs, and Dash 2 is for LeSabres.
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RE: 65 Riv GS Drive Shaft Replacement Parts from CARS, Inc.
LINK to CARS, Inc.: Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.
OK - I've done the research, and am trying to get some confirmation.
The ONLY part that has me scratching my head is the constant velocity joint refurbishment kit.
CARS offers two Constant Velocity Joints Re-furb kits - which of the two is correct?
I'm guessing "B" is the correct part for the application, but since this stuff is going to Sweden, it has to be right the 1st time.
You guys are the experts so I figure this is the best place to ask :cool:
A) Driveshaft Constant Velocity Repair Kit 1961-1965
Driveshaft constant velocity repair kits. Saginaw type
Part # CVK610-2
LINK TO THIS PART OFFERING: Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.
1963-1965 Buick Riviera1969-1970 Buick Riviera with Saginaw
Constant Velocity Repair Kit
Part # CVK610-4
LINK TO THIS PART OFFERING: Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.
* Three (3) U-Joints 574A-4
* One (1) Driveshaft Support BS619-4
* One (1) Driveshaft Support Bearing DSB611-4
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A bro-fist of sympathy goes out across the bay to your brother-in-law. We in Finland are under the same kind of draconian vehicle inspection regulations and the guys who enforce them. Many a tale, death-threat and song has been written about them.
However, the MPH speedometer is not an issue at all here. And I know some guys in Sweden also driving old-timer American cars, and none of them have a KPH conversion or have ever complained about this. Are you sure he´s not just being messed with by some jerk?
Lasse - Bro-fist of sympathy will be passed along.
I do not know all of the details, BUT - I do know the Bilprovning he has to go to, and they "dinged" my nearly new car for a number of "issues" they had with the car... And, as you know, these guys are the law, and once they find something wrong, it's better to just shut your mouth, as they can turn up the heat and continue to find more things wrong with your car. This is the third time Leif has contacted me about this question - so he's scared about some law enforcement official coming down on him like Thor's Hammer ;-)
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Jim - I will pass this info on to Sweden.
Thanks for your help!
fast_dave
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OK -
I know we have a lot of foreign members as well as some Riv guru's so I'll run this by you.
My bro-in-law in Sweden has to take the Riv for it's first of it's yearly inspections at a place called bilprovning (translation is literally Car Testing).
Bilprovning is Sweden's answer to America's Department of Transportation.
These guys are waaaaayyyyy official and by totally by the book - I know, as I have dealt with them when I lived there. 1/3 of the cars we have in the rust free PRK wouldn't pass the muster of the boys down at Bilprovning...
When the Swedes get the letter that says their car has to go for inspection - you hear the cussing in the room begin.
Granted, it is a somewhat worthy program because Sweden gets the kind of snow that necessitates using salt, sand, and gravel on the roads, and that is just hell on the cars.
Anyways - Leif knows that sooner or later they aren't going to like his current making tape "conversion" of MPH to KPH (Miles per Hour to Kilometers per Hour), and he's going to get dinged for it.
So the long background to my question is does anybody know of someone who has made a speedometer face decal that will convert MPH to KPH?
Any and all replies are valued :cool:
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Ya gotta love the ROA and this board. Very cool for the anonymous reader to step forward and shre the info and sell you the tag.
Rick - he didn't sell it to me, he gave it to me.
And , to show you what a class act he is, he's taken it down to the Trophy Shop that he had it made at, and is having it engraved with Leif's name, so I'm floored with his kindness.
A class act ROA member through and through - and he won me over with some kind words about my Nieces; Anna and Maria ;-)
Yep - this is where the kool kids hang out!
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Jim,
Thanks for Gene's info, but I have two updates to to the thread:
1st, There is a ROA member that wishes to remain anonymous, but at the same time he wanted me to post the following.
He read this thread, and found the information I posted regarding "304 Stainless Steel Exhaust from Classic Exhaust" very valuable to him.
As a token of his gratitude, he's sending me a reproduction dasboard tag that he had made up at a trophy shop a few years ago.
They're basically the same tag that you see at the base of a sports trophy, and as he put it: "it's NOT rocket science!"
2nd, This gent also went on to say within his PM that his contribution to this thread is:
ANY trophy shop can make one up at a very reasonable price (he had 4 made for $15 each) if you provide them with two things:
* A photo or print out of what it looks like - i.e. the photo in my first post
* The Dimensions of the dash tag
Best yet - these days, you can do that over the internet - you don't even have to leave your keyboard!
You can start by going to GOOGLE and entering the search term: "Online Trophy Shop"
NOTE: I'll soon post the dimensions of a Dashboard Tag to this thread as soon as I receive mine.
Thanks again for Gene's info, and if someone needs one ASAP it sounds like he's worth a shot!
fast_dave
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MartyWorld,
Ditto to what rsmalling wrote - BuickBoneHead - great service and accurate, high quality reproduction.
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fast_dave, did this 304 Stainless Steel Exhaust System include the resonators and the dual-path muffler? I'm no welder, so does it just clamp together? Any pics you have of the unit either before or after installation?
Thanks!
Hi Chuck,
Leif, my bro-in-law, is - hmmmmm, how should I put it; "technology challenged" Actually, i think he'd much rather have a personal assistant do it for him - like my neice's. ;-)
Despite the fact that everybody and their cousin in Sweden has a smart phone with a camera, I have yet to receive a single picture, before or after. Whatever... At my last job I had guys call me 24/7 from the field describing a structural or fitting problem; and they'd drone on for minutes upon minutes before I cut in and ask "Say man, didn't I issue you a digital camera? How about taking a picture or two, and uploading it on the laptop is issued you, and that way we'd all be on the same page?!. There's a reason what they say a picture is worth a thousand words" (OK - I'm done ranting).
Anyways - the dual path muffler is included in the standard offering, the (2) resonators were extra - $100 ea (Muffler and Resonators are also 304 Stainless).
OK - now this particular car car spent a good part of it's life in in Northern Europe, and because of that, I also purchased all new exhaust carbon steel hangers and stainless steel clamps. I chose to send all I could purchase because the last thing I needed to hear was that the installation was being held up due to the fact that I had to send more exhaust system parts! I had no idea beforehand if things were rusted through so I assumed the were and took the safe route. That and Leif was ultimately paying for it sooooooo.......
From what I could gather, permanent sections of the of the exhaust system are system are welded, replaceable parts are clamped (resonators and muffler).
The entire system as described (without shipping to Sweden) = $980
The price is in line with Classic Exhaust's competitor in Michigan - BUT, what sold me on Classic Exhaust was two things.
The first is that Scott is the owner operator of a small shop, and he guaranteed me that he'd take his time and craft it like a piece of art, and that it would fit right the first time.
Second, the material Scott uses - 304 Grade Stainless Steel - is optimized for especially for long-life exhaust systems, and was a higher grade than the competition in Michigan. The grade used by his competitor has the ability to shine up to a more "polished" finish - but it doesn't last as long.
I did a lot of research on grades of stainless steel used in exhaust systems and the various grades advantages and disadvantages to get to my final decision - I'm convinced that 304 is the way to go if you only want to do this once.
The final report from Sweden was was that the fit was perfect, and no problems whatsoever with assembly, it went in like a custom fitted exhaust system should. Wish I had some pics to share with you guys as well as Scott at Classic Exhaust - but it is what it is...
During my research, I kept reading reviews of exhaust systems, their good points and bad points, and quickly came to the conclusion that they are one of those items that "you get what you pay for."
Writing about this is much easier than the process itself. It took about two months from first contact w/ Scott until the system was ready for pick up at his door by DHL for it's air freight trip to Northern Sweden. In that time, I also arranged the DHL shipping, and I had to connect the two parties to talk about the size of the box, it's weight, and the pick-up date.
E-Mailing BOTH parties made the process MUCH easier to keep everything straight.
Hope that helps -
fast_dave
1963-1965 Buick Riviera
Resistance Wire
in Buick Riviera
Posted
EDIT: OK - I found the answer at PerTronix webpage and updated this question for other with the same question:
"A resistor wire or ballast resistor may or may not be included in the original equipment.
They are not to be changed in any way with the installation of the PerTronix Ignitor System"