weak areas to keep an eye on when rebuilding 1930 CJ motor

Hi gang,

What are the weak areas to keep an eye on when rebuilding a 1930 chrys CJ (6) motor? Any insight on rebuilding these old ones is appreciated. I plan on going thru the whole motor prior to installing in my car.

one example- should I babbitt the bearings or line-bore and move to a more modern bearing?

thanks

Tim

tim_byerly@hotmail.com

What is the engine number for your motor so we know the cubic capacity?

Doug McKay.

CJ20565 --- engine stamped number

310229-1 --- engine casting number

A1 22.3 --- engine casting number

Engine is all torn down. Here are my findings if you?re interested.

After pulling off the FRONT engine support of the CJ motor, I checked it to my frame and it doesn?t fit. I have some documentation that states the CJ motor for a SHORT time (how short I don't know) was used in the 1930 model 66 car. Maybe the documentation is wrong or I just need a different front engine support.

Overall the engine is pretty good. Once in the machine shop they let me know if any thing is of issue. Measuring the deck heights it appears the block is concaved from piston 1 to 6 or there is some other issue like piston sizes or rod lengths. On piston 3 & 4 the deck height is pretty low. I plan on decking the block so I?m hoping there is enough metal available to deck it. I haven?t checked the head yet so I don?t know its condition yet (whether it can be shaved). The crankshaft end-play appeared normal. Piston removal was fine except for piston #2 which I removed after removing the crankshaft by pulling thru inside of the block. The wear on #2 cylinder prevented from pulling the piston up and out as normally done. The camshaft has a non-metal gear which I didn?t know they did this in those years (interesting). The camshaft end-play seems excessive but I?m checking on that. Camshaft lobe wear seems ok and can be cleaned up, the shop will let me know. Lifters seem excessive on the wear so not sure if they are within tolerances. A few valves are going to be close if they can be ground again. Two valve springs look out-of-wack in size compared to all others (interesting). The BAD area of the motor was when the freeze plugs were pulled. The block was over 50% blocked in the water jackets with sediment. It was three inches of sediment at the rear of the motor. This may/must have been causing over heating issues with the motor, which may have contributed to poor running and ?

I have been told that line-boring this motor for modern type bearings is NOT going to work due to the main bearing caps shape and sizes. I am researching this