dale collins

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About dale collins

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/28/1942
  1. 41 Packard electro-magnetic clutch

    I have recently bought a 1941 Packard 120 have not run it for any distance yet,because I am puzzled that the electro-clutch appears to be working,but there seems to be no vacuum controls pipes or any other controls around the engine bay,only as far as I can tell,a single solenoid on the L/H side of the gearbox.The instruction info. mentions that there is a lock out switch or knob to resume normal clutch operation,but,where is it situated? My car has 3 pull-out switches light switch,instrument switch,and hand throttle,on the L/H side of the column, and a starter switch,ign. lock.and ign. lamp on the R/H side of the column,there is also a large ivory knob on the R/H side, below the dash,which I assume is for the over drive,[if fitted] I can not contact the previous owner to ask him as he passed away.I can not understand how this clutch can function,as it appears to be doing without most of the controls missing but I will be happy if I can just figure out how to bring the clutch back into normal operation.,to complicate the issue,the previous owner changed all systems to 12 volt. If any one can help with advice,it would be appreciated. Dale Collins.
  2. packard stromberg

    My 1937 Packard 120 has a Stromberg EE14 carburettor. The problem is,at idle it will run o.k. for a few seconds,then falter,due to fuel dripping from one of the high speed nozzles,this will almost stall the engine,then the idle will recover,only to repeat the cycle.I have had the carbie off several times,fitted a new kit,cleaned it out and blown through all small passageways etc.Have tried several different float settings,no difference.Have fitted a fuel regulator to the pump outlet and varied settings,no problem there either.Now am thinking the problem may be that either the high speed bleeder or the emulsion tube on that nozzle may be partly blocked.As I don,t have the specialized tools to withdraw these parts,I would sure welcome any suggestions that would confirm that I am on the right track here.Dale Collins.
  3. packard stromberg

    My 1937 packard 120 has a Stromberg EE14 carbie.The problem is,at idle,it will run o.k. for a few seconds,then the idle will falter,due to fuel dripping from one of the high speed nozzles,this will almost stall the engine,then the idle will recover,to repeat the same cycle.I have had the carbie off several times,it appears clean,have blown out all small passageways etc.Have varied the float level several times,to no avail,have fitted a regulator to the fuel pump,and set to different pressures no problems there.Now I am thinking the problem may lie in either the high speed bleed or emulsion tube-possibly part blocked.As I dont have the tools to withdraw these parts,I would appreciate any suggestions to indicate if I,m on the right track here.Dale Collins.
  4. stromberg carburettor

    fixed the problem, fuel was siphoning from the idle ports,someone had fitted idle tubes with no air vents at the top.
  5. stromberg carburettor

    No power valve,only an economiser v/v at bottom of acc. p/p delivery,which is correctly set.Someone suggested to me the gas overflows when engine is stopped,due to build up of pressure in the line between pump and carbie,thus overcoming the float and needle valve.High volatility of modern fuel being to blame for this situation.Hard to accept this explanation if the engine is only run for 1 minute or so,and manifold and carbie and all fittings are barely even warm.Dale.
  6. stromberg carburettor

    I have a 1937 Packard 120 c convertible coupe,which I've just finished restoring.Everything is fine,except after starting the engine and running for even just a couple of minutes,when I switch off,fuel drips out of the inlet manifold drain pipe until the fuel bowl is empty.Have checked the fuel bowl level with the engine running,it is exactly correct,have even lowered the level,same result.Have cleaned and checked the Stromberg EE 14 carbie,economiser valve setting is correct and as far as I can see all looks ok.Put in a full new kit,no difference.When both idle screws are fully closed,engine seems to idle just the same and is running very rich.This means when starting the engine warm,the accelerator has to be held to the floor,and needs a fair bit of cranking to restart.anyone out there with experience with these symptoms able to help,it would be much appreciated.Dale.Australia.