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Is there any reason why I can't bench test electrical equipment with a 12 volt charger. I've done it a couple of times and I just wanted to know why I had never heard of anyone else doing this. It seems like a safer way, instead of possibly causing a spark that could explode a battery. Just curious.

Mike

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The issue might be the "stability" and "continuity" of the power being supplied. Either a switched 12 volt battery (fully charged) or possibly an electric model train transformer that could vary voltage to 12-15 VDC might work better than a battery charger which might supply 12 volts, but at varying amperages.

What's the latest diagnostic project????

Enjoy!

NTX5467

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Depending on the size of the charger it may not have the amperage to power the object being tested. Also the DC is rectified AC and depending on the charger the current flow is polorized but not constant (half wave). There should be no danger of explosion unless the lead acid battery has been recently charged. It only makes hydrogen/oxygen when being charged, not discharged. For a lot of things such as a fan motor a charger is fine, but a fully charged battery is a better test.......Bob

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Thanks y'all.

I was checking my Wildcat's radio to see how to set up additional speakers so my ipod would work.

I may have to sell the AM/ FM to Pete for his Kitty project and get a secret audio for my car. I got the lighter working for the ipod charger thingy and had some underseat speakers I wanted to try out. They are a bit bassy, even with the tone knob turned all the way up. I also got the AC compressor working the other day so after seeing Willie charge two cars and another dude charge yet another car, I tried my hand at charging the AC. It seems to be blowing cold, so with the AC and the ipod, I'm set for cruizin. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Willis, I like your transformer idea. I just didn't have a spare battery around.

p.s. Note to my friends at shows who have been irritated about my 55's "new" battery, I just splurged on the Optima hidden in a Delco case. Wow, It sho is 'spensive, though.

Mike

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">p.s. Note to my friends at shows who have been irritated about my 55's "new" battery, I just splurged on the Optima hidden in a Delco case. Wow, It sho is 'spensive, though.

Mike </div></div>

Mike,

Not to change the thread too much, but where does one find such a battery? I've seen an outfit online...can't recall their name right now...it might save me a point or two in Seattle to have something that looks a bit more authentic.

Thanks.

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I know there are advantages to a "gell cell" battery, and they might be good for what they are, but they also seem optimum for emptying the "available funding tank".

Enjoy!

NTX5467

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The lead acid battery is shipped dry, but I have had their version go bad in under two years, thus making it a really expensive leaky doorstop. The maintenance free version is the only reason I chose to try it.

Thriller, ya know, from Suzanne's point of view, there is only a three point deduction even if the battery isn't in your engine compartment. So really a maximum of two points for a non Delco, wrong sized battery. I suppose you COULD tell her it's a ten point deduction, though. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Mike

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I questioned the supplier of the "Optima" hidden in a delco case and finally pried out of them that it is an "Optima type battery" not really a genuine Optima. They would not tell me who or where it was made. Hopefully it will be better than the the 2 year, over priced junk, lead acids they are foisting off on us......Bob

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Speaking of gel cell batteries I use a brick size gel cell from my deer feeder for bench testing; it is adequate for every thing incuding a non installed starter.

Mike knows why I have the gel-cell-in-delco-case unit: the last lead acid one slobbered all over the battery case and surrounding area of my CVT. Mike claims he heard me hollering 60 miles away.

Willie

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thriller, ya know, from Suzanne's point of view, there is only a three point deduction even if the battery isn't in your engine compartment. So really a maximum of two points for a non Delco, wrong sized battery. I suppose you COULD tell her it's a ten point deduction, though. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Mike </div></div>

Mike,

That is true...the one I have is black, so likely only a one point deduction, based on what I remember from Pete's presentation in Rochester.

That being said, after going through the judging manual, I think the Wildcat may be teetering on the brink of a bronze. I'm just trying to think through the biggest bang for the buck, without spending a huge chunk of cash (other Buicks to work on too), in terms of point deductions. I can do a lot of detailing under the hood, new battery cables, stickers, etc. Anyway, that's probably enough detracting from this thread...time to start my own.

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Quote; ""Optima type battery" not really a genuine Optima"

As discussed in a previous thread that is also what they told me, plus the dry cell area is far smaller then what a Optima battery has. That said I bought one 9 months ago as I too am sick of replacing a wet cell every 3 to 4 1/2 years. The last year it barely cranks the engine over.

The new gel style battery held its charge all winter (in the car) with only putting a tender on it twice in 6 months. It only took a half hour or so until it was fully charged and that is only at 1.25 amperes of charging. When cranking the car to get it started (which took a while) the battery didn't seem to draw down that much. The battery read fairly charged even after shutting the engine off after a few minutes with all this cranking.

Not cheap but so far so good with this new style battery. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any reason why I can't bench test electrical equipment with a 12 volt charger. I've done it a couple of times and I just wanted to know why I had never heard of anyone else doing this. It seems like a safer way, instead of possibly causing a spark that could explode a battery. Just curious.

Mike </div></div>

I use my one older charger for checking things like lights, wiper motors, etc and it seems to work fine. My 2 newer chargers have built in safety features which shut the charger down and won't allow its use for testing.

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Guest imported_JPIndusi

The best way to bench test car radios, clocks, etc. is to buy an inexpensive or obtain a used lead acid battery and an inexpensive battery charger that can charge both 6 and 12 volts. Hook the charger up to the battery and run you test power leads off the battery. If you don't have a battery connected to the charger and try to use the charger alone you can run into problems. Most chargers will go well over the voltage without a load (battery) connnected to them. This could blow bulbs or damage the item under test. On the other extreme the device being tested may draw more current than just a charger can supply and the test might indicate a defective device when the problem is it is not being supplied sufficent current.

Joe, BCA 33493

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