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New Fire Extinguisher Requirements


bowtiebart
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bowtie...Welcom to the AACA Forum.

Extinguishers have been discussed at length over the years. I suggest the following:

1.--2007 Judges Manual is on-line. Within the header of this page, click on "Publications, Judges Manual (Takes about 4 minutes to download).

In the Index, scroll down to page 16, General, Paragraph 4 Approved Extinguishers.

2.--To read past discussions on this Forum (very interesting):

Click on Search within the header.

Left Column: All Forums

Right Column: Keyword Extinguishers, Click on In Subject and Body, Date Range: Newer than 5 Years, Older than 6 Months, Click on Submit.

Regards,

PJH... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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  • 4 months later...

According to an article in the <span style="text-decoration: underline">July/Aug 2007 AACA Magazine</span>:

1-A:5-B:C is all that is required, which "is an excellent general-use fire extinguisher" Or for a larger one: 1-A:10-B:C is another approved choice.

There is no expiration date (too difficult to monitor), so as long as the extinguisher shows fully charged, it is OK. Article says it is mportant to shake youir fire extinguisher once in awhile. (Does anyone know why?).

I made up a nice tubular bag for mine with heavy clear front from the clear plastic used for boat side windows. See attached picture. This way I didn't have to drill holes in trunk sides for a mounting bracket and it is not necessary to put the extinguisher on display on a piece of plastic behind the car. Also in case of emergency, the extinguisher is quite handy and accessible. Fred

141_Fire_Extinguisher_in_rear_of_trunk.JPG

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Article says it is mportant to shake youir fire extinguisher once in awhile. (Does anyone know why?).</div></div>

So that the chemicals don't "settle during shipping" and get compacted, in which case the extinguisher probably won't work correctly.....or at all.

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The articles in Antique Automobile have documented the reasons for change. Essentially it is due to the B:C extinguisher not being acceptable for wood. We now have a very simple rule in comparison to the past and it should last us for many years to come.

This is cheap insurance and it amazes me sometimes that we have expensive restorations and cars and skimp on having a quality fire extinguisher. Great advice about the 10# as they are not much more expensive than the 5#.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve Moskowitz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

This is cheap insurance and it amazes me sometimes that we have expensive restorations and cars and skimp on having a quality fire extinguisher.</div></div>

Or none at all as in the case of a former member of our region. He had just bought the car before our local show and forgot to put an extinguisher in it.

The show was over and only our friend Rodger, andd us with our RV which had been used as the show HQ, were still at the show site when the other member packed up and started his car to go. The car backfired up through the air filter, which caught on fire. Rodger came running for our extinguisher in the RV and put the fire out. The owner of the car was trying to beat it out with his jacket....and not making any progress.

A proper fire extinguisher is like a VISA card. Don't leave home without it. grin.gif

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As for shaking the extinguisher, it is to keep the chemicals from seattling. The easiest way to solve this (if you drive your car) is to mount it like you should in a boat which is horiztional length wise front to rear of vehicle. Under acceleration and braking helps to keep things"shook up". That's why mine is normally mounted to the transmission tunnel and it's still easy to get to.

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