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LOCATION OF RADIO MODULE


RED891
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i will have a thing on how to add an adapter i make soon, so if yopu can wait, i will put a full description with many pictures by wednesday. if you remove the horse-shoe shaped metal thing that hold the shifter nob to the bar, pull off the nob, CAREFULLY pull the indicator section up, remove those screws closes to the cassette player, open the ashtray, reove those screws, and the whole trim pice should be free. but i had great dificulty replaing my radio(which i did on friday)with one from a 93 silverado(more info on that later) so i would recomend you take out the drivers seat, and take off the side of the console carpet.

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do not waste your time repairing the radio just get one out of a 88-94 chevy pickup, they also came in 95 regals. If you must have the 7 band eq then make sure it was a option on the doner vehecle. I have found I prefer the sound of the treble/base adjustable modle better than the fancy eq. The other advantage to these radios is they have not been subject to spills, cleaning products or numberous other misfortunes the reatta radios may have incountered throught out there service in our vehicles.

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You can replace it without removing the seat. Since this is your first time, remove the seat. The seat is easily removed.

4 phillips screws to remove plastic bolt covers.

4 nuts hold seat in place

1 connector for seatbelt

Tilt steering wheel all the way up. Cover it with something to prevent accidental scuffs from seat.

Radio removal is as Tommy described.

This is a good opportunity to vacuum carpet under seat and shampoo the 18 year old coffee stains from the carpet. You should also find around $2.47 worth of coins in the console.

Hey, While your in there....

Disconnect the battery first. Buy some electronics cleaner spray. Disconnect and clean every connector you can get to in there. I think there are about 100 or so. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> It might be kind of messy in there. Take the time to clean it up while you have access. It will be worth it..

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There is only 1 screw which is not accessible, due to seat location. I've been lucky, in the past, to find the screw was not installed. Try removing all screws holding the left side tunnel cover, and see if the last one is holding it, then you'll know if the seat HAS TO come out.

Upon re-installation of your tuner module, make sure to leave that screw out, so you can access that area in the future without removing the seat. There are other system components down there you may need to access later, one being an inverter.

Same holds true for passenger side cover, 1 screw blocked by seat.

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  • 5 months later...

Initial symptoms of a bad radio module as "crackling"(which I initially assumed was the result of speakers gone bad. Another symptom was the loss of a couple of area radio stations and then finally nothing.

I chose to have it repaired at the following website rather than a replacement. One day turn around with replaced capacators(6)as indicated in another post and a tuning capacator. $71.60 with shipping to me while I paid for the shipping to them. Excellent! I am very pleased.

Delco Repairs

Here is an alternative website for replacement from an earlier post.

click here

Regards,

1989 White/Blue

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

It looks almost impossible to identify any markings on the original green capacitors which need to be replaced for the radio crackling noise. Another post identifies the caps as 1-microfared, 50-volt. Does anyone know if they are electrolytic (polarity sensitive)? If they are, is the circuit board identified +/- for an easy re-install?

Thanks

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I changed mine out not too long ago.

As for the location, they are under the heat sink that must be removed to get to them. They are 1 mf 50v cans. They are polarity sensitive and are marked with a strip down the side. I saw no markings on the circuit board.

I got mine at a TV repair shop used. We tested them at the shop before I installed them and they worked fine. You will need to select short ones that will clear the heat sink or bend longer ones to clear. They are bunched so close together that bending them might be hard to do without damaging them or shorting them.

Thanks to someone (sorry I don't know the name) who provided the photo and article.

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I'm going to post two photos. One is of the capacitors I purchased from a local electronics store. They are non-polarized so that either lead can be soldered into either hole in the PCB regardless of the original caps. orientation. They are larger so you would have to be a little creative in your positioning of them.

The other photo is of the radio "chassis" (PCB) that the replacement caps were installed on.

If memory serve me, I believe that the green caps. are marked for polarity (+/-) but the circuit board is not.

Before disassembly, you should draw a schematic or use D. Terry's. Or buy the non-polarized ones and fegetaboudit.

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