Jump to content

Catalytic Converter, I think


Richard S

Recommended Posts

The other day my car began making a noise that made it sound more like a Briggs & Stratton than a Reatta. Was not coming from the rear, so I thought it might be a manifold gasget. It is not noticeable when the car is idling, hardly audible when revved in neutral, worse when revved in gear, and bad as the car warms up. The sound exactly follows the revs. Had it on jack stands and had someone rev in gear. Sounds like it is coming from the Cat, but I don't really see any obvious holes in it. I suppose I could let it warm up good and have it put on a lift. I just hate to bother a mechanic when I know I will be doing the replacement myself. Do these symptoms fit Cat failure? Anyone have the part number?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sound like it could be the heat shield.<BR>The welds let go and it starts rattling.<BR>If your drivablity is the same (mpg,<BR>pick-up ) then that is it. If you use<BR>the search function there are<BR>a few postings on how to check for a<BR>bad Cat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't the shield give off a more "rattly" sound? This sounds more like "brrrp" new big outlet mufflers the kids are putting on their rice rockets. Tried a search using word "cat" and none of the 200 returns talked about testing the cat. Can anyone direct me to it or repeat the test?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I had the same sound on my 300ZX. Went to the muffler shop looking to have the cat converter replaced, as that was where the sound was coming from. Turned out to be the o-ring type gasket between the exhaust pipe and the cat. $22 for them to replace it. Of course I had them replace the muffler at the same time, but still ended up a lot cheaper than a new cat! tongue.gif" border="0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ranger

Had the same noise on my 90'. Took it to the local muffler shop, they tapped the converter with a rubber mallet, that was the noise. They then put a thermal reader at the front and rear of the converter, this told them where the problem was, $187.00 I was on the road. Had the same test done on a rattle on my Riv., the converter was OK, $10.00 for the test and down the road.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...