hi folks need some help

[sprintcar]

hi folks

i need some help on this.my mom has a 1985 park ave.

the engine will start,then stall.will be driving down the road

and it will start to buck,and stall.or the engine will just quit

running.it will start stall,start stall.it will stall when i put

it in gear.

i put a new map/maf sensor on it.that did not help it.

still stalls.

i got a code reader for it yesterday,the codes that come up

are code 34 and 44.

could the fuel pump be going out on it,or the fuel filter be

plugged up.

are there any bca members here in grand junction,colorado.

let me know.i do need some help on this situation.need to

get it running,asap.

ron <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[GMPARTSMAN]

If memory serves me correctly, this car has a distributor, correct?

I don't think distributorless systems weren't used until '86 on the C & H body cars.

Is the car cold or warm or it doesn't matter when this occurs?

Also, how many miles on the odometer, and is there any noise from the front of the engine

(clacking) while running?

[sprintcar]

hi gm partsman

yes it has distributer

it doe;snt matter weather it is hot or cold

no clacking on front of engine.

i checked the fuel pressure this morning,

it has 31#s of pressure.i here it is supposed to

have 38to 45 psi of pressure.i am going to change the

fuel filter,and see if that brings the pressure up.

if that doe;nt help,then i will put a new fuel pump

on it.

ron

ron

[GMPARTSMAN]

The ignition system question was regarding the type of ignition module. Yours is under the distributor cap, the old HEI system. Shotgun diagnosis was if the engine ran when cold/cool, but quit after being run to normal operating temperature or about 45 minutes of driving, it was a bad module. The newer distributorless usually failed with no spark any time. There were problems with those, but they all failed fairly early in the vehicle's life. The common failure on these now seems to be the crank sensor. One quick diagnosis is if the vehicle has a tachometer, watch for needle movement upon cranking after the stallout. If the needle doesn't move, suspect the crank sensor, of course this only applies to 86 and later without distributors.

The clacking noise that I asked about is timing chain and gear wear. Nylon/Aluminum cam gears. Pieces of the cam gear crack, chip and fall off allowing slop hence the clacking noise. This usually occurs in the 80,000 to 100,000 range. If this happens, you have to remove the oil pan to remove the nylon gear pieces as they will be picked up in the oil pump screen, restricting oil flow to the oil pump.

I think you are on the right track with the low fuel pressure. If the fuel filter is restricted, it puts a higher load on the fuel pump causing failure, but usually it goes all at once. With the age of the car, it is just probably normal wear causing the drop in fuel pump pressure. You also may need to check the fuel pressure regulator, and if I remember right there is a small vacuum hose on it also. Check that for cracks.

[sprintcar]

hi partsman

i will check the module this morning, after

it warms up a bit.it has the hei system on it.

there is no tack in the car.

i hope the cam gear is not gone bad.it is pita

to change.

it sounds like the module has gone bad.it starts

and runs.then after driving it after it warms up

it stalls.and will not start.if i let it sit for

awhile,and let the engine cool down it will run.

thanks for the info partsman.

ron

[GMPARTSMAN]

You are describing what sounds like a ignition module failure. OF coures without a module tester you cannot be sure if this is a defective module. If you find this is the problem, purchase a GOOD QUALITY module, like GM/DELCO, or NAPA Echlin. Stay away from the unknown brands that are out there. And be sure to use the packet of grease included with the module. It goes between the module base (aluminum bottom) and the distributor housing. It is a heat insulating grease.

[sprintcar]

hi partsman

i had the module tested at the local napa

store yesterday.he ran it 8 time on the tester,

and it is good.

i put a new fuel filter on yesterday to.the fuel

pressure went up from 31# to 33#.i took the vacume line

off of the fuel regulator,and the pressure went to 40#.

and the engine smoothed out a bit.it must be in the fuel pump.

ron

[sprintcar]

hi partsman

got it fixed.the mas airflow censor that i

bought at checker was defective from the start.

i took it to the local shop to have them check it out.

it was driving the mechanic up a wall.trying to figure

out what was wrong.he got a new censor from auto zone.

after he changed it,the engine started to run like it should.

he put a new o2 censor in it.and that made it even better.

it just goes to show you that new parts can be bad.

he put new plugs in it,because the others were carbon fouled.

went for a test drive,out on hyway,ran it up to 65 mph and

it was still pulling.it was;nt the fuel pump after all.

thank you for all the info you gave me.

ron

[GMPARTSMAN]

Glad you got it going. Those systems were a "hybrid" with the "newer" 3.8L engine but with the old ignition system. I haven't seen or had any parts request for one of those since the early 90's.

The bad MAF should have triggered a code for that in the diagnostics. I would pick up a factory service manual for that particular year/model, (No to Chilton's,etc.) if you are going to keep the car. It will be harder as time passes to find anyone that has information on it as that system was used for such a short period of time.

I can't speak positively or negatively on the quality of parts that Checker sells, but as a rule you get what you pay for. That's why I use either O.E. or a name brand aftermarket part on my own vehicles. Initial cost is more, but usually you are doing the job one time only.

[sprintcar]

hi partsman

AMEN, TO THAT.

ron