1973 Buick 455 Distributor Replacement

[BASSR]

Anyone have knowledge of the proper steps in replacing with 1975 Buick electronic distributor??

[BUICK RACER]

If I remember right, I believe you only need to run 12v off the ignition circuit.

[NTX5467]

12 volts "direct" without any ballast resistor (as a point system normally might have).

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Dandy Dave]

I had a 1971 Buick 455 years ago and it seems to me that it did not use a ballast like the chrysler system. The GMs were just hooked + off the ingnition to the coil. - goes to the distributor. To time it, pull the cap off of the old distributor and pull number 1 spark plug to be sure that you are on the compression stroke and bring it up to TDC on the timing marks on the harmonic ballance. Take note of where the rotor is pointed and the direction of rotation. Pull the old distributor out and drop the new one in making sure that the rotor is pointed as previous. Set the points so that they will just start to open as the rotor will be alined with #1 on the cap and snug the distributor down. It should run but will need to be advanced slightly later when you put a timing lite on it. Change the plug wires to the cap that you are using and check the fireing order as you go. Be sure that you put the wires in the direction the rotor turns when the motor would be running. The fireing order should be on the intake manifold in raised numbers. Be sure that when you put the distributor in that it goes all the way down but don't force it. The drive on the end of it turns the oil pump. If it is neccesary use a socket on the nut that holds the harmonic ballance and rock the crank until it slides in easily. Then set it back to TDC. You will need to find the "hot wire" that runs from the Ign. Switch to the distibutor. Use a test light to locate it or better yet get a wiring diagram and find it the easy way. Good luck, Dave!

[BASSR]

Thanks Roberta. That's exactly what I did. I removed the resistence wire and ran a 16ga wire to the distributor. Now that I'm experiencing unresolved starting problems a mechanic is telling me there should be a resistence circuit. It's my understanding that an HEI Distributor needs 12 volts to operate not resistence reduced volts, so I'm not buying onto his advise. Bruce

[BASSR]

Thanks guys for the help. I just knew the BCA folks would help.

[NTX5467]

Perhaps the mechanic is referring to the "fusible link" wire in the starter circuit rather than the power to the distributor? Different deals in that the supply to the HEI should be "pure" 12 volts and the fusible link wire in the starter power supply circuit is kind of like an in-line fuse of sorts for that particular circuit.

There was a mechanic here in town, recently receased, that had a little Q&A dialogue for "will not start". Something like "Will the engine turn over?" "Does the engine turn over fast or slow in trying to start?" "Does it ack like it wants to start but does not?" Or something to that effect. Anytime a customer came in seeking his sage advice, they were first subjected to his questions and definitions.

One time at work, a company work truck came in on a wrecker, with the complaint "Will not start". An investigation revealed a big hole in engine block above the oil pan, with a connecting rod wedging things "immobile". No mention of any engine performance issues or "Engine died, would not restart", just that it would not start.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[BASSR]

Thank's for the help but I don't tnink that's what he had in mind. Boy do I know about fusible links. Some years ago I was traveling I-81 in the hills of PA. I was in the passing lane during a downpour, in the middle of the night, when she died. I managed to get to the shoulder got out my tools(always carry with me)and after checking the electrical system with my tester I found a blown fuse link. In the mean time I'm under the car, as cars and semi's passed guess where the spray went. I had a piece of wire in the tool box so I cut out the fusible link, ran it, and down the road we went alibet soken wet.

BASSR

PS: This all started with a starting problem. Do you think you or someone else could help. I'm baffeled.

[Guest sintid58]

Ok now youve got me wondering something. I recently put a Petronix kit on my Skylark and while doing it the wire broke off in the loom. I couldn't find it and instead of cutting the loom open and taking a chance on messing up more wiring I just ran a new wire down the loom and through the firewall to the ignition side of the fuse box. I didn't see a resistor anywhere on the car while working on this. The car starts great now, do I need a resistor in this system to keep from burning up the Petronix ignition. I have visions of sitting on the side of the road in Wyoming this summer with no ignition, I have been broke down in Wyoming before, it's not a party. Thanks

[BASSR]

I've known about them for a number of years, but have no experienc with Petronix. However, as far as I know, if it is an HEI distributor there is no resistor required, just a 12 volt connection from the ignition to distributor. Maybe someone with Petronix experience will have something else to offer.

BASSR

[BASSR]

Hi,

At the cost of looking stupid, I have a question on 12 volt testers. It has been my experience that a hot circuit will produce a bright light. The tester I had lit but was dimmer than I expected, so I new one, with the same results. Do today's testers operate different, or is my memory failing?

My anylizer show's 12 volt's. After installing a new starter and battery(same results with tester and anylizer)she started. An hour later she wouldn't. I might have a better chance solving the problem if I had more faith in the tester. She seems to be getting plenty of gas but fails to start.

Any suggestions?

BASSR

[old-tank]

On the Pertronix question go to the Pertronix web page and if the question is not addressed under support call technical help.

Willie

[geno]

As I remember some of the older GM cars had a double wire to the distributor. One was a resistor and one was not. Then you had 12v in the start position and 6v in the on or run position. this saved the points from burning and they lasted longer.

[NTX5467]

As you had a "start" and then "no start", you might double check the cleanliness of the battery terminals and battery cable ends. I know, that's a very elementary thing, but I found out that it can contribute to some of the things you might be experiencing.

I did an electronic ignition upgrade (using a factory performance kit--from a non-GM make's performance parts). Everything worked great, as it should have. I hid the control box and ran the wiring extension with existing chassis wires so it was all hidden.

When I was all done, the "moment of truth" arrived as I tried to start it for the first time. IT WORKED! I then tried it several more times, but on the 5th try, it did not start or do anything. I got my digital volt/ohm meter out and started checking things. A solid 12 volts was everywhere I checked it, but still no start (or acting like it wanted to). I did a visual on the battery terminals and they looked normal, with nothing that looked out of the ordinary. The battery was fully charged too. I even bought a new starter relay and that made no diference either.

Then, upon a closer look-see, I saw some hints of corrosion between the battery terminal and the battery cable end (a top post battery). I pulled the cable end off of the post and it had a thin coat of "stuff" on it, but nothing that you normally would not get excited about, yet I felt I needed to clean it up.

A few years earlier, I'd been at another car club's road rallye and got a battery post cleaner (the wire brush type). I put it in my tool box and forgot about it, so I looked for it and found it. I then cleaned both of the battery posts and the inside of the battery ends. Same voltage "everywhere" as before, but now it started and kept starting each time I tried it.

Only thing I could figure was that volts would get through the "stuff", but amps would not (for some reason). A strange situation . . . as when I turned the key, nothing happened until I cleaned things up. Nothing when I tried to jump things at the starter relay either.

To me, a test light is good for checking a circuit's continuity, but not always an accurate gauge of voltage per se. It all would depend upon the min voltage to light the light, possibly. But, generally, a bright light would mean more voltage than a dimmer one.

To determine which wire is which in the harness, you might need to consult a Buick Chassis Manual for the wiring schematic and appropriate color codes for the ignition/distributor circuit's wires.

Another thing to consider is what the minimum voltage requirement might be for the electronic ignition "box" to fire the plugs. I've seen some cars that would spin the motor over (seemingly fine, but not as fast as it might) and not start the car as the plugs were not firing due to the lower voltage being supplied to the control box. With a jumper cable boost, they started immediately. Some control boxes need more volts than others do, from what I've discovered from research on that subject (not sure about the Pertronix, though). Of course, with points, if they'll spark it can start the car regardless of how slow the starter might be turning (by observation one time at a major car show).

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[BASSR]

You memory serves you well, Gene. GM used a resistance wire from the fuse panel to a connection with wires from the starter then to the coil. Then from the coil to the distributor.

Bruce

[Dandy Dave]

If the battery connection seems clean you may want to consider replacing the ignition switch. sometimes the contacts are worn and heat up causing a drop in voltage. Have you tried to bypass the ignition switch with a jumper wire from the battery to the coil? This would be a good place to look also. Dave!

[BASSR]

Thanks, Dave. A few years ago I replaced the both the key switch(it wanted to hang up)and ignation switch. No, I haven't tried your suggestion of battery to coil connection, but will do so. Yrsterday "Bessy"(my wife's name for it)started and ran fine. As I said previously, I don't like getting it running for the sake of running. I want to feel I've found and corrected the problem.

And the saga continues,

Bruce

[Dandy Dave]

A bad connection anywhere in the circut can cause a drop in voltage. Even a wire that shorted and got hot at some point in time can loose it's ability to conduct and in essence can become a resister of sorts causing a voltage drop. As you are checking the wires in the circut pull on them and see if they come apart or appear to stretch in an area. It is not uncommon to find a green and corroded area in the wires sometimes when the plastic insulation is pulled apart. If it goes to the fuse box, look at the holders to see if they look like they have been hot at some point. They will appear blueish gray instead of nice and shiny. Also, see if the insulation appears to melted any where. When all else fails, look for the simple and obvious. A bad ignition switch in the past could have caused a wire to heat up and break down. Systematically use a jumper wire to check every circut as you continue from the battery forward or even use a test light as you have and see if it is brighter with the jumper that it is with the original wire. If it is not them you have found the culprit that's robbing your juice! Continue the saga. Dave!

[BASSR]

Thanks again, Dave. It will take some time to do, but get back to you.

Bruce

[Dandy Dave]

No one ever said it was going to be easy. Eletrical problems are the hardest to diagnose on anything automotive. You can't see it leak like a radiator hose or fuel line. Keep up the search and you will win. Back in the early 80's I remember working a Ford Mustang for a friend. The heater motor did not work and after pulling the dash half apart and tuging on one of the the wires that ran to it, it came apart rather easy and had a green section in it under the insulation. This had to be a defect from the begining. Good Luck, Dave!