bcjones Posted January 6, 2007 Posted January 6, 2007 Recently - and all of the sudden - I started my '88 Reatta and when I applied pressure to the brakes - It seems that there is no power in the system. As if I am manually applying the appropriate braking pressure. I basically have to put all 150 pounds on the brake pedal to get the car to stop. I haven't been able to find a suitable diagnosis from 3 different shops.Please help.or buy my car <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> It's red.Casey, IN
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted January 6, 2007 Posted January 6, 2007 got to reatta.net and run the brake test step by step, then report back.
Barney Eaton Posted January 6, 2007 Posted January 6, 2007 Do some searching on the "search" feature. Also go to www.reatta.net and read the brake section.You have lost your "boost" for the brakes. Most cars have vacumn assisted power brakes. The 1988-1990 Reattas (and other GM cars with ABS) used a unit from Germany made by Teves. There is a electric motor that drives a hydraulic pump and that is your "boost". You can have a bad relay, pressure switch, accumulator, or boost pump. Most likely your accumulator needs to be replaced but you need to go through the steps and check each component to determine which component has failed. Since they are expensive, you don't want to just start replacing part.
padgett Posted January 6, 2007 Posted January 6, 2007 No red or yellow lights on the dash ? Should have both if you lose boost.
Guest F14CRAZY Posted January 7, 2007 Posted January 7, 2007 Yup, take the brake test, and report back. We can guide you in the right direction
Jim Posted January 7, 2007 Posted January 7, 2007 If the yellow light is on but the red light is off that means the ABS is not working but the brakes will still be working and have power assist. If the red light is on the pressure is low in the accumulator.When the key is turned on the pressure switch sees low pressure and turns on the pump/motor building up 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. The pressure switch sees this high pressure and shuts off the pump. Even with a totally shot accumulator the pump should still run and build up the pressure. In this condition because there is no nitrogen in the accumulator, when you step on the brake pedal once, the red light would probably come back on. If, when the key is on the red light stays on, and you have a hard pedal that means the pump/motor is not starting. The relay could be bad but most likely it is a bad pressure switch or pump/motor. If you remove the connector on the pressure switch, which is located above the pump/motor and in front of the accumulator ( black ball ) and look inside and see any brake fluid seeping next to the terminals, you have a bad pressure switch. As the cars get older I am seeing more and more pump motors go bad. Sometimes tapping on the motor with the key on will start the motor. If this happens, you need to replace the motor/pump.I have good used parts for the ABS and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com
Guest grkman1 Posted January 8, 2007 Posted January 8, 2007 Hey my yellow light comes on but the re light goes off. The yellow light does sometimes go out when the car is in motion. The brakes work fine, no difficulty to stopWhat is the problem with mine and how do I remedy the situationThanks
Jim Posted January 8, 2007 Posted January 8, 2007 The yellow light on is a whole different situation. You will need to get a shop manual and read out the ABS trouble codes through the ALDL connector per instructions in the manual.
padgett Posted January 8, 2007 Posted January 8, 2007 Be aware that some trouble codes may not point to the right sensor. Also Florida eats rubber so you might want to check the rubber insulation on the wheel speed sensor leads.
Guest wally888 Posted January 8, 2007 Posted January 8, 2007 You are potentially flirting with a complete brake failure/crash, etc! Give the car the brake tests! Post results here for help. I would not drive the car til fixed!
bcjones Posted January 10, 2007 Author Posted January 10, 2007 There appears to be a problem with grounding within the relay. I grounded (86?) and everything appeared to function properly (for a half-mile test drive). So... I am wondering what else in the electrical network which may/may not be grounded. AND... what future problems do I have to look forward to?Please and Thanks.Casey Jones
Guest F14CRAZY Posted January 10, 2007 Posted January 10, 2007 If you have any doubts in the relay, replace it. Try a good parts store like Napa. Should be less than $10
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