Electrical Question: 56 Packard model 5662

[brainfrz]

My rear tail lights are staying on even after the key is off and removed...any thoughts on what might be causing this? Short in the line? Bad Head light switch in the dash? is there a location in the rear truck or behind the rear seat that wires connect to that I should be looking at? Also my parking lights are not coming on at all. Thoughts? Turn signals and braking work fine in the lights. Head lights turn on fine. No dash lights though. Just need a little direction on where some of the wire connections might be. I have the shop manual with the wiring diagram.

Thanks,

Jon

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

Are u sure it's the tail lites and not the stop lites?????? If it is the tail lites then the headlite sw is suspect. But it could also be bad wireing anywhere along the line. Try headlite sw. in different positions. Do the license plate lite stay on too???

[Guest BigKev]

Looking at the wire diagram for your Clipper Custom Touring Sedan, the tail light bulb wire (black wire in the rear harness) runs directly to Headlight switch, there are no other splices except where the crossover is to the other taillight and the license plate lights. So based on that, the problem has to be in the headlight switch. If that wire was shorted anywhere rear of that switch, you wouldnt have any tail lights at all.

You can find your wire diagram here:

http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/news/article.php?storyid=59

Just click on the "1956 Clipper with Autolight" link and your wire diagram will show.

I hope this helps.

[HH56]

Most likely is switch since parking lights also acting up. If it were only taillights, then I would suspect something shorting the taillight connection to the buss bar on switch because they are close enough to almost touch. Turn signals and brake lights are powered separately. As to dash lights, the most likely is the rheostat (dimmer) section on switch. There is a short wire from same connection point on switch as taillights feeding rheostat. The usual problem area is the rotary connection from there to the wiper of dimmer which seems very prone to corrosion. The switch I show in photo is green from corrosion all around the area surrounding shaft where connection passes from one side to other of ceramic. If this is the case, you might be able to use some contact cleaner and spray the area while vigorously turning the knob. This usually cleans and helps for a while.

[brainfrz]

Thanks everybody. Kev, your deduction is the same one I had but I thought I'd ask anyways. HH56, thanks for the pic, great detail and will be printed and placed in my packard book for reference.

Jon

[HH56]

Just thought I'd throw out another picture of actual rheostat section showing the corrosion for those not familiar with the workings of the switch. This particular switch in addition to the poor contact from corrosion also has a loose rivet where the current passes from input wire connection from headlight switch thru ceramic to the brass contact sleeve. That was a bit surprising and could be the issue on other cars with no dash lights complaint. Will have to play around and see about a repair because the ceramic and bakelite shaft piece is very brittle and won't take much abuse such as removing from switch like this to work on it. Anything not shaped pretty much like original rivet won't fit either. Suggestions?

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

Is the rivet brass????? U mite be able to peen/swell the rivet with out removing it. Don't use a hammer but rather set it up in an arbor press or vice in an appropriate fashion and press the peened end gradualy until it tightens up.

i've had good luck just using a small paint brush with lubriplate on it and coating the rhostat spring and working the knob back and forth. Have fixed several over the years that way on various different makes.

[Guest Randy Berger]

I have carefully disassembled these switches, cleaned the brass contacts carefully and reassembled them with successful results. An application of Caig lubricant also helps.

[Guest Albert]

the dimmer portion is also not working in my switch, so now the dashlights are connected directly to the taillights, which has not been a problem..

[brainfrz]

Man, who thought my simple question would grow. I pulled the switch down, but not out yet. Cleaned the contacts a little and retried everthing. I get the front parking (small side Lights) to come on in the parking postion but no rear parking lights. But the front lights turn off when I pull the switch completely out for headlights. Any new thoughts? My tail lights are still staying on though.

Jon

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Did they work correctly before, or did it have this problem when you got the car? If it didn't work before, then someone may have connected them up incorrectly. But if it did work before then it would be a short somewhere? You may have to use an ohm meter and a long clip-wire, that will reach from light sockets to under dash, to measure continuity thru the wires and to ground.

Be sure to disconnect battery before doing ohm meter tests, could damage the meter.

[Guest Albert]

The front parking lights do go out with the headlight, thats normal, just have to figure out the rear lights, check from the drivers side kick panel , and you should find the harness that comes from the back, and the disconnect the one wire that go to the heahlight switch, or it could be the two going to the turn signal switch (brake lights) and see whick wire(s) will turn them off.. and work from there..

[HH56]

I believe the only constant hot wire in loom that could cause the problem is the one for trunk light and reading lamp. If you pull the body feed fuse and lights go out, then that is the suspect. I don't remember the exact route whether it goes thru kick panel and over doors to trunk or down center next to trans tunnel and then under rear seat to trunk. I do remember seeing a car where the loom was sort of pinched at the left rear wheel between fender and wheel well so that area might be worth looking at

[Guest Randy Berger]

I'm not trying to be a SA here, but you need to go on Packardinfo.com and read the owners manual. You apparently don't know how the lights should work normally. As Albert says, the front parking lights go out when the headlights are pulled on. Maybe everything is working as designed and you just think you have a problem.

[brainfrz]

Albert, HH56,

Thanks for the continued thoughts. I was wondering where the junction for the rear electrical was and my next step was to pull the kick panels. The rear trunk light works great. But I'll check the other connections and pull and clean the headlight switch.

Randy,

I have the owners manual. I've read the owners manual and have worked with wiring before. SO, if you have some information to post that could help on why my TAIL lights REMAIN on after the key is turned off &the Headlight switch is not pulled to the on stage, than by all means post, but if you just want to be MEAN because I missed something in my reading or its not there anyway, don't bother. This is how good threads go bad.

Jon

[Guest Randy Berger]

Jon, as I said in my post, I'm not trying to be a Smart A$$ and didn't intend for it to be a swipe at you. Don't be so thin-skinned. I have no idea of your expertise or experience. Therefore I addressed your problem by asking very basic questions.

The ignition key also has no bearing on the taillights, parking lights, brake lights or headlights. These all work independently of the ignition switch and thus my question to you. If you have the headlight switch down where you can see and examine the wires and the contacts they are connected to, you should be able to determine if any wire is receiving current or not.

If you have a volt-ohmeter the job should be easier. Carefully diagram the wire connections yourself before you remove any of them. You may have a home-made repair that defies explanation until you can track all the wiring. If you do have to disassemble the switch, be aware that the contacts are spring-loaded and proceed cautiously. I was able to disassemble one by prying up the clamping fingers on one side only and work the fibre plate off carefully. Good luck and let us know the ongoing diagnosis.

[Guest Albert]

The 2drht models the wires run down the drivers side of the hump under the back seatand up throught the rear quarter panel. The 4dr they run through the drivers door piller and down the rear piller into the trunk..

,