Valve Stem Seals

[kilkm]

I found several small broken o-rings laying in the top of the cylinder head recently when I removed the rocker covers on my '62 401. I assume they are the valve stem seals and probably explains why this engine smokes at start up and why I see smoke comming out the draft tube. Any tips on replacing these seals would be appreciated. I've read a little bit on line, people talking about doing the job with the head still on the motor using the "rope trick" to hold the valves up when the springs are removed or pressurizing the cylinder with an air compressor and adapter screwed into the spark plug hole. Don't think I want to cram rope into the cylinder but I guess it works. What kind of spring compressor is used on these engines since the don't have studs and nuts on the individual tappets? I also noted last year when I had the intake manifold off this engine has adjustable push rods installed. It may have had a performance cam installed before I bought the car, it's a very strong running motor and has other high performance parts. The engine has a little clatter at start up, some have told me it is common in the engines, but I wonder if the pushrods could or should be adjusted. Are these valve stem seals still readily available? I'd like to hear from anybody whose replaced thes seals, I've never done this before.

[Guest Skyking]

Last year I pulled the heads off my 62 Buick because I had a slight skip and bad compression in one cylinder. It's a real low mileage 401 that I thought would need a valve job............but long story short, it was carbon built up around the valve seats, causing the valves to not close properly. I ended up removing all the valves and lapping them in. In the gasket kit there were valve seals included, but there weren't any in the heads when I pulled them out. I always had some slight smoke when starting the car up. I added the seals and I don't have smoke on the start ups anymore. So to answer your question, by all means, add the seals...........

[NTX5467]

BEFORE you start worrying about valve adjustments via the adjustable pushrods, you need to find out WHAT cam and lifter set is in there (i.e., mechanical or hydraulic) as THAT would defintely affect the real reason for the adjustable pushrods. Typically, adjustable pushrods are not a normal thing to find in a street motor. And really quite expensive when compared to the rocker shaft shim method of lessening the preload on hydraulic lifters for higher rpm capabilities.

There are various types of valve spring compressors, which will compress the spring and take the tension off of the upper "keepers" on the valve, letting the retainer and keepers be removed, then the spring can be be removed. Not sure what style of valve seal would be on that motor, but be sure to check for valve stem clearance in the valve guide--might need to pull the heads anyway to fix that problem.

Happy Holidays!

NTX5467