New 55 Clipper Owner- HELP

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Yes all that is in working order, though it needs tightned up. I thint the problem resides somewhere between the dash and defroster supply.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Kevin,

Rest assured, I'm working on it..... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Albert]

Try using a shop vac on suction on the 2" pipe from the defroster channel and see if it sucks out anything

, and then try blowing with the shop vac and see if it helps..

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I'll give it a go and see what happens

[Guest 55_Clipper]

If this is a dumb question y'all can go ahead and take pot shots at me. The water pump on my 55, is it a Packard specific item, or are there readily avaialable replacements? Mine is about to die. I heard a grinding noise comong from the front of the engine so I used a long shanked screwdriver and started listening to things. I heard my valves opening and closing with no grinding noise, so I listned to my water pump and the sound intensified.

[Guest imported_Packards1]

Packard only pump. Not at all hard to find. They are on eBay all the time.

[mrpushbutton]

Grab the fan, one blade with each hand, across (as near to 180 degrees as you can) and try to wiggle the blades back and forth, front to back. If you feel any noticable wiggle where the shaft enters the pump, you need a new one. I hear Patrician Industries carries those pumps.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Pushbutton,

Thanks for the other way to test the pump. I didn't think of it right off. I have found that the long shanked screwdriver acts as a stethescope in many regards. Being a SONAR Technician, I gueus I rely on sound, but I will check to see if there is any "play" in the shaft. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Just performed the physical test on the fan. There is a minor amount of play. Thanks Mr. Pushbutton, that confirms the aural symptom. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Albert]

There is also places that will rebuild the pumps as well too,,

[Guest Randy Berger]

Arthur Gould. 6 Dolores Lane. Fort Salonga, NY 11768. 631-754-5010

Although he sold the business, the new owners are rebuilding pumps also.

They advertise in HMN. Art charged me $75.00 a few years ago.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I finished the major tune-up yesterday. An amazing difference. New points, rotor, cap, condensor, plugs, and wires. That engine purrs like a kitten. Burns cleaner too. The deiseling problem has gone away as well <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I have a question for everybody. How many of you run a synthetic oil in your cars?

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Randy,

When in the planetary drive train 1st 'D' up from low, I have a little bit of tranny flare. Which way do I need to adjust the T/U trottle linkage, foward or back?

[Tom M]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">synthetic oil in your cars?</div></div> The only car I run it in is our daily driver a 2002 Acura TL. I change it every 7,500. We have 132,000 miles on it.

[Loyd Smith]

I have run synthetic motor oil in ALL of my vehicles since it first became available for internal combustion engines. It is slick. Was working for a sheriff's department in the early 1980s where we did a comparison test on two units, one with regular motor oil and regular (3,000 mile) service intervals and the other with a FULL synthetic at 18,000 mile intervals. When the engines were torn down at 60,000 miles (three different officers driving them 24 hours a day, 7 days a week) the difference was dramatic. The engine that had been running the synthetic oil didn't even have any ring grooves on the cylinder walls. There is much opposition to this practise, both in the normal public and amongst old car hobbyists but, in my experience, the lubricating characteristics of quality FULL synthetic motor oil is self-evident. I've used it in everything from R/T Twin Turbo Dodge (Mitsubishi) Stealths to my '55 Patrician (once the engine was rebuilt and oiling properly) with nothing but excellent result. It is my personal preference to use the applicable weight racing blends in my older cars for the extra additives in them. To me, the extra expense is negligible, all things considered. Everyone has their own ideas and their own preferences, however, and I have heard many opposing viewpoints on this subject. My own experience has been that slicker is better.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

OK folks,

Is there a particular light pattern in the tail lights? If so, how should it look?

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Is there any way to tell if you have a good water pump when it is off the car? I found a water pump in my trunk, cleaned it up and so forth. It moves like there is nothing wrong with it, rotates freely and such. The vanes on the pump are a little beat up, but everything appears to be solid.

[Guest imported_Packards1]

There should be some resistance when you rotate the pump. If it rotates too freely I would be suspect. Also do you really want to go through all the work of changing the pump only to wind up stuck on the side of the road later on. Just put a freshly rebuilt pump on the car and press on with another Packard project. I just put another pump on my car a few weeks ago just in case. I don't want to break down half way to South Bend this summer.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">On another note, we need to find you the proper 54/55 Clipper Tail-lights! </div></div>

Kevin, do you mean these kind of tail lights??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I think I hit the note. lol <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[Guest BigKev]

Much Better!!!! Those tailights are what make the 54/55 Clippers stand out from the other models.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

They weren't a bad deal either. 170 for the lenses and housings. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Packards1,

I think that is the route I'll go. I'll send off the water pump that was in my trunk to be rebuilt. Piece of mind is better than saving a few dollars. I've been stranded on the side of the road here in Southern California, not fun at all. No one stops to help............

[Guest BigKev]

That's not a bad deal at all. New lenses are 150 each.

I have one good lens, and one bad one. The problem with just buying a new one is that the plastic color looks different when compared to the old faded one. The new lenses are far superior in strenght do to the newer plastics they use. If I can not find another good original lens, then I guess I will have to bite the bullet and order a set of new ones from Tucson Packard.

The only problem with the 54-55 Clipper taillights is that they are unprotected (not sunken into a housing of some type). So they got broken very easily. With heat, age, and crazing, there are very few good originals ones left out there.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I have one lens that is o.k. and another that was superglued together. Now I am trying to locate the difuser that goes in the lense assembly. I cosidered it a good deal because the housings came with the lenses(mine were AFU. Holes drilled through them and gutted to accept the other lights). Old wires are now the bane of electrical problems for me. They are brittle and cause things not to work. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

On a side note- If you want to see a crazy registration system look at the attached pic. These two cars are 40 years of age apart. You wouldn't guess it by looking at the license plates

[Packard8]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If you want to see a crazy registration system look at the attached pic. These two cars are 40 years of age apart. You wouldn't guess it by looking at the license plates </div></div>

That's cuz CA has gone thru 4 styles of plates since your Packard was new...the Yellow background with black numbers ('till 1956?), then the black plates with yellow letters/numbers (mid 70's?), then the blue plates with yellow numbers (1980's?) and now the white plates. In each case, the old plates had to be turned in and the new style reissued. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

There is a bit of resistance when turning the pump by hand. But I'm pretty sure that I'll have it rebuilt, just in case. BTW- you have my email address, let me know where to send payment for the diffuser. on ebay you have seen me as sonar_91 <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

New plates in CA only get reissued if the registration lapses for more than 90 days

[Packard8]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">New plates in CA only get reissued if the registration lapses for more than 90 days </div></div>

I believe that is correct except for the change from the yellow plates to black around 1956-57. I had a 49 Hudson that I bought from the original owner (with all the registration papers since new) that was switched from yellow to black plates. Also had a few pre 1957 Studes that originally had the yellow plates but had the black plate when I bought them....don't know the full history of those cars other than they were originally shipped to CA (from info on the build sheets)

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Packard8,

Where in Northern California are you? I was born and raised in NE Shasta county. in 1956, the old 7 didgit yellow plates with black letter/number combos were mandated to be replaced with the then new black plate with a 6 digit ID system. My Clipper had the original 6 digit black and yellow plates on it. When I went to register it, I was forced to put on the newer plates. I will pay the $25 fee this october to have the plates that came with the car put back on. The new "highly reflective" plates are easier to read and conform to the vehicle "ID" code that went into effect in the early 70's. Does anyone know if there is a supercharger for my 352? If there is, where can I get one?

[Guest BigKev]

Talk to TurboPackman. He has one on his 352.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I'll give turbo a holler when I'm ready for a supercharger. New question- I have completely overhauled my ignition system save the coil. My points are set at .016" and my dwell is at 30. Timing is 6 deg. BTDC, idle set at 525/550. When the engine is warm and out of gear at an idle, when I mash the accelerator to the floor, the engine stalls. IF I gently apply pressure I have a slight hesitation, but it revs up. At operating RPM, mashing the throttle makes the engine do what it is supposed to. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> My brother says the problem most likely is in the accelerator pump on the carb, and that the Rochester carbs were notorious for this. Any other ideas about this problem?

[Guest Randy Berger]

I don't know about notorious, but your brother is probably right. If it still has the old leather plunger you can remove the horn and accelerator pump - roll the plunger material back up the shaft and back down again to flex it. If it is the more modern rubber/neoprene then you will probably need a new one.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Maybe notorious was too strong a term.... more like a commonly known problem <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I guess It is time for a trip to San Diego Carburetor. I called them and they are a little pricey, but they said they could do it. I asked about a guarantee and it is a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty and a kind of testy "when it leaves here, it won't come back untill a rebuild is necessary." <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[Guest 55_Clipper]

How can I get in touch with Turbo?

[Guest BigKev]

You can leave him a message on the PackardInfo site. He checks in there at least once a day.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

San Diego Carb. qouted me $350 to rebuild the entire carb. $700 for a complete restoration. I'm going with the rebuild option(if I have to rebuild the accelerator pump, than I might as well have the whole thing done). A rebuilt water pump and a visit to Bush Brakes in National City(to solve the slight brake drag problem) and new exhaust are next(after I buy my chain saw).

[Guest 55_Clipper]

ok folks, here is the brake issue i've noticed. The brakes feel entirely normal when in use. I drive around a little while and park the car. The brake lights are not on. I come back to the car a few minutes later and the brake lights are on. If I reach down and apply some bicept power to the pedal and pull hard, the brake lights goes off and the T/L works. What gives? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Randy Berger]

I think you know that when the brake lights are on the T/L system is shut off. If you didn't before you know that now. I haven't been following your car that closely, but assume you have power brakes?? Did you have work done recently on the power brake unit, or the brakes themselves. It almost sounds like there is some kind of misalignment of the brake pedal and the T/V unit. Can you easily pull the pin that connects the pedal to the T/V unit? The pedal should almost fall onto the "eye" of the T/V unit with no undue pressure to line it up. The other thought is that air is in the system and as it cools and contracts, it exerts some pressure on the three-prong hydraulic switch which will engage the brake lights and turn off the T/L. This is all supposition and my advice is worth what you paid for it.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

thank you Randy,

I'll do another bleed of the system, as this seems more probable. Yes I have power brakes and the TreadleVac Booster.The booster and master cylinder were recently overhauled as part of the restoration process. No pressure was necessary to align the pedal and the T/V unit, in fact I have to lift up slightly on the pedal to make the hole line up. Brakes 101...I should have taken that class.............. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />