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New 55 Clipper Owner- HELP


Guest 55_Clipper

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Guest Randy Berger

I looked at Cokers conversion chart. It is full of errors. They did recommend a 235/70 r15 which is what I'm running. It has only 28.0 diameter.

The 255/70 has greater diameter of 29.0 which is closer to the original 800:15 diameter of 29.1

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Guest BigKev

Your right Randy, the 235/70R15 is the correct size. Their (Cokers) search by Make/Model brings up the right size, but there conversion chart is all funky.

I know on the 51-56 models, the rear tire can be a bear to get on or off if you go to wide. I am just wondering if a 255/70 may cause that problem.

My Clipper calls for 7.60x15 and I am using 225/75R15.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 55_Clipper

This is really off the subject, but does anyone know where I can look up the application for carter carbs by part number? The reason I ask is that some one put a Carter 2bbl on my clipper(since removed and replaced w/ the Rochester 4GC)and I would like to sell it to someone who needs it. The number is 4947 S 2590

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Guest BigKev

The cork swells a bit once it comes in contact with the fluid and then provides a tighter seal. This is why Packard recommended no sealer be used on the transmission pan gasket, as the cork gasket there will do the same thing.

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Guest 55_Clipper

this next question is going to sound wierd. When I pull the headlight switch all the way out(headlights on) the parking light/turn signal lights go out. Is this normal, or do I have a short? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Another question that has been on my mind, is there a specific order to bleeding the brakes? I found no mention of any particular order in the service manual. Which brake should I bleed first, the one before or the one after the "T" in the line? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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Guest Randy Berger

The headlight switch is working ok per your description.

I bleed right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Starting from the furthest away from the master and working in.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 55_Clipper

Thanks for the brake bleed sequence, it does make sense to do them that way. I may have to bleed my brakes again, might have got some air in the system while the gasket was soaking up fluid. If fluid could leave that way, air can enter the same way, I'm thinking. Question- The retaining clips for the rear window trim, which way are they supposed to be orientated? Witht he hook side facing down or up? I ask because I took the interior trim off to work on the side trim for the outside. When I tried to put the trim back on the seems to be a large gap betwixt the interior trim and the window, and it doesn't look "normal". BTW- I understand now what my dad told me about the weather stripping around the windows leaking, it is no wonder they leak if you drill holes in them.......

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Guest Randy Berger

<span style="font-weight: bold">IF</span> the rear window on a four-door is the same as the hardtop, then the clips with two hooks are mounted so the hooks are on the bottom. These hooks are first inserted into two holes in the body and then flipped up to slide over the screw head of the moulding clip that protrudes thru the rubber gasket. Then a flat plate or washer is slid on the screw and finally a nut is spun on to secure the hook and hold the window.

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Guest 55_Clipper

Thanks again Randy,

I thought that with the hooks facing up didn't look right. Looks as if I have a days work ahead of me.

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Guest 55_Clipper

Thanks for the info B.H.,

Though I am not having braking issues, it seems as though the T/L system is slow to react after driving. It almost seems that there is residual pressure after driving around town, though it could be tht I'm imagining things. Thanks for the heads up on the front weather stripping. Mine has to be replaced(the rubber is so dry that it has shrunk and I have a gap at the right top corner.). I would like some opinions on the next topic. Paint colors..... the original was Tourmaline/Moonstone. When I repaint my car, I am considering two options. I am leaning pretty hard towards Jet Black where the Tourmaline is and Black Cherry where the Moonstone is. The other option I am entertaining is Midnight Blue and Gun Metal Grey. I can't seem to find a program that will let me upload a photo of the car and play with the colors to accurately reflect the look, so I want some opinions other than my own. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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Guest Randy Berger

I considered not painting my car the original two-tone as my 400 driver in the sixties had been repainted Maltese Gray Metallic and the Patrician and 400 both look good as a single color car. My fondness for things original in cars and other hobbies convinced me to paint it like the ID plate said it should be. Once I got all the chrome back on I really liked the look and was glad I did. The original choice of color combinations was made by some very knowledgeable people and it is rare that an amateur can best their decisions. My advice is worth what you paid for it, but I would go with the original color scheme.

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Guest 55_Clipper

Thank you Randy,

I really do appreciate the imput. Most of my friends are "Hot Rodders". I take a lot of ribbing for not wanting to "rod it out", but I'm definately having a hard time deciding on a paint scheme.

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Guest Randy Berger

Did you check out the color combinations for 55 on the PAC website? They might give you some good ideas.

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Guest 55_Clipper

I have looked at the color combos on Packard.org website. There are a few color schemes that caught my eye so to speak. I tend to shy away from bright colors, (the CHP looks for those). Even though I don't think these cars look good w/ green, I'm thinking making the Tourmaline more of a Turquiose.

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Guest Kevin AZ

Randy & 55 Clipper,

I agree 99%, however the original paint code on my 1955 400 is Paint H & Trim code 84. Those that thought up that Pearl Gray color needed to have their heads examined IMHO (after having had a pitcher of Margaritas!!!!). I've NEVER seen a 55 Packard in paint H schemes. Currently my car is colored turquoise and white and it will remain so!

55 Clipper .....you are in a good position; pick well sir!

Kevin <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Tucson

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Guest Randy Berger

Aah, Brian you bring back great memories. My mother's cousin Dolly had a Mohave Tan 56 Patrician with the light copper matelasse upholstery. Her husband had a fit when Packard shut down as they had just bought the Patrician. It was a gorgeous automobile and was a big influence on my wanting a 56. He traded it in on a Mercedes and took a big hit on the trade-in. I think a local collector purchased it and it remained around western Pa for several years.

My first 56 400 was a repaint done in Maltese Gray Metallic and I thought the car looked sharp as a monochrome version. Unfortunately the inside of the trunk was still Scottish Heather and I remember having the family at the beach on the Mon river and looking at the car with the trunk lid open it reminded me of those large monkeys with red asses. I got up and shut the trunk and reminded the management not to leave it open. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

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Guest 55_Clipper

Kevin, Randy,

I have waxed small portions of oxidized paint and it doesen't look all that bad(rest assured, no blasphemy in pink)it is just that I feel all auto manufactures had a penchant for green(that,and I don't really like green, and my better half has threatned to kill me if green or grey comes in to the picture). What I really wanted was an opinion on my choice of colors. I'm not trying to "best" or second guess the designers, I just want to try something new(and preserve the harmonious state that I have right now, shiver me timbers......). I really do appreciate the imput. An informed decision only comes from the evaluation of available information.Since I'm only in my mid 30's, I need imput from you all <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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Guest Randy Berger

I was glad to be able to help. Thanks to this Packard forum and the folks who participate. We're all in this together.

Regarding repainting your car - it is your vehicle and you should paint it whatever you AND your management wish. I did not mean my suggestions to sound like disapproval, only my opinion. And like I said - it's worth what you paid for it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Guest 55_Clipper

Randy,

It didn't sound like disapproval to me. All advice is welcome. I have learned in my 17.5 years in the Navy, that if you give advice, be prepared to have it not heeded and don't take it personaly <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />. I have another question- the defrosters, the air output from the blower motor seems <span style="font-style: italic">really weak</span> even on the hi setting . Is that normal, or is the blower(fan) not operating properly? I can <span style="font-weight: bold">hear</span> it running and changing speeds with the switch setting, but can barely <span style="font-style: italic">feel</span> the air flow.

One other thing, This is my first time dealing with restoration and such. How much should I pay for things like body work and paint prepping and such. I probably could do it myself, but I really don't have the time(keep in mind that I live in the highest inflated economy in the contental US) I have been quoted anywhere from 40-60 bucks per hour(wich translates into anywhere 3-5K)from big shops. On the other hand, I have been told of a shop that will do this kind of work for under a grand, but there is a connection for the interior down in Tiajuanna, Mexico.

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Guest Randy Berger

The fan is located next to the radiator on the pass side. Make sure the cloth sleeve is in place from the metal tunnel to the heater and make sure the heater flap is open. It will shut off air flow. Also make sure the two cardboard L-shaped channels are in place from the plenum chamber under the dash to the defroster vents above. Your Packard parts book plate 29E shows this arrangement.

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Guest Albert

check the condition of the rubber edged flapper too so it does not blow out through to where your feet are..

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55 Clipper,

Welcome to the Club. I own a 55 Custom Constellation that I have had for 11 years. I have done just about everything as far as work on that car that can be done except a complete engine rebuild and rear end work. I had to put a rebuilt Twin Ultramatic from Peter Fitch in it after 2 years. The rest I have tackled with great success. If you use common sense and stay true to the car you will not go wrong.

I'll say this they are great driving cars. 55 and 56 Clippers I consider to be some of the best road cars of their time. They roll right along. My wife loves driving the 55 because it has Power Steering and Power Brakes. However, she claims it has too much power, but that doesn't seem to stop her from taking out on the highway and laying into it. I don't mind its just that when I follow her with my 53 Clipper to a show, I have to run that a little harder than I'd like to.

Bob

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Guest 55_Clipper

Constellation,

there is no such thing as "too much" power <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />, I should know, the engine in my 55 Super came out of a 55 Constellation. I will check the all the flappers and covers for the defrosters. I still have a deisling problem though(after a hot run, the engine wants to continue to run with the key in the off position). Hopefully, after I finish the major tune up, it will go away. Question- was it common for Packard to mix and match parts? The reason I ask is that my generator, starter, voltage regulator all say Auto-Lite, but my distributer says Delco-Remy. Is this normal? I have to order an engine gasket set to replace the valley cover gasket and oil pan gasket(I have to plastiguage my main bearings anyway). My oil bath air cleaner leaks oil through the upper and lower halves, so I've go to figure out a solution there. My exhaust needs to be replaced from the headers on back. I think the check valve in my master cylinder is sticking. I have no obvious drag on the brakes, but sometimes the brake lights stay on and the T/L system isn't operative for a few minutes after I stop driving. I have been recommended to a Power Brake shop in National City, CA. Supposedly this guy is the God of Power Brakes in San Diego County(no "I-told-you-so's" from the peanut gallery about my Treadle-Vac, pls. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />) As you see from my pic, my Super isn't in the best condition, but she turns a lot of heads-(I never appreciated how good they look moving until I let my buddy drive it) I wonder what response I'll get when she looks good enough to go to the cruise-in. Oh, and BTW-I agree 100% about the ride, nothing that I have ridden in to date beats it, although the Lincoln Towncar, Mercury Grand Marquis, and a high end Mecedes have come close. My wife even wants to ride in it, now that it runs reliably. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I saw a '48 Eight Packard today after Mass, a real beauty, I hope my '55 inspires the same reaction.....

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Guest Randy Berger

When you order the oil pan gasket, order two exhaust donuts also as you have to drop the exhaust pipes to get the pan out. You can unscrew the dipstick holder from the pan and remove it and the dipstick before you try to drop the pan. You'll have to put a pair of vise-grips on it though. It is tough to unscrew the first time. I had better luck on the two front pan screws by taking out the four bolts that hold the sway bar and splasher in place and rotating the sway bar out of the way so I had a clear shot at those screws. The two in the rear and the two in front are longer than the rest. I took out the starter (after disconnecting the battery and hung it up with a bungy cord. Dropping the lower flywheel cover is a bit of a chore because of the dowel pins on each side. You can slowly wedge it off by working from side to side. Make sure you put some RTV at the four points where the gaskets meet to insure a good seal. If I think of anything else I will post it.

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Guest 55_Clipper

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Regarding repainting your car - it is your vehicle and you should paint it whatever you AND your management wish. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> The management wants something with blue...... There goes my paint scheme <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Guest 55_Clipper

Folks,

There is a "cruise in" being held in Econdido on old US 395. I'm toying with the idea to take my Clipper there even in her down trodded condition. What do you all think?

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Guest Randy Berger

Why soitenly! Never pass up a cruise or show - you never know what might turn up. Someone may come over and ask if you want some parts they have stashed.

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Guest 55_Clipper

I think I will take the management with me and will go, The cruise in is sposored by Kragen(Shucks or Checkers depending on the part of the country you live in) and runs every Friday night from after Memorial Day to Labor Day. Now, I just have to get a Friday night off from work.............. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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Guest BigKev

I don't see any difference in the color. But maybe it's just the picture. I would imagine that the horizontal surfaces should have more fade to them then the vertical surfaces.

On another note, we need to find you the proper 54/55 Clipper Tail-lights!

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On the subject of weak blowers. Check the blower fan, are the fins full of dust? They should have a curve shape, if they are dirty take off the blower, take off the fan and clean it thoroly. You have to get all the dirt out of there, don't leave a smidge or your blower will be out of balance.

After you clean all the fins, rub down with fine steel wool and give the fan a thin coat of paint. Lube the bearings with synthetic oil.

You will be astonished how much more air the old the fan blows.

The same parable goes for your house furnace or air conditioner. If it is more than a few years old the blower is probably full of dust. It does not take much to fill in the blades of the fan and cut its efficiency to practically nothing.

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Guest BigKev

My '54 had Rats living in it when I found it. At least one of the suckers came home with the car. I stared noticing droppings, and things getting gnawed on. I put down a glue trap, came back the next day and the glue tray has disappeared.

I put out some poison, and about two days later found a rat that I could have put a saddle on, dead just outside the gargage door. After that no more problems. Lets just say the wifey was not to thrilled.

I figure that sucker was either living in the headliner, in the seats, or up in the dash somewhere. I just glad he didnt die in some hidden place nook in the car where I would have smelled him before I found him.

After that happed I stipped out all the old interior material in the car, pulled out the seats, and checked in the doors to make sure the coast was clear. No Hanta-Virus for me, thank you very much!

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In addition to the mice, snakes and whatever else maybe blocking ducts, its been awhile but I seem to remember the defrost/heater air control was a piece of cardboard type material stapled over the bends in shaft. Its inside the plenum just over the dash inlet from heater. I remember in mine the rear part of the plenum was also fibre and had gotten wet & warped causing the flap mechanism to bind and shaft had just broke the cardboard whatever where it was stapled. Was surprised it wasn't metal & rubber like in main tubes--just a piece of something folded over and stapled next to shaft and then at end. Assume it was original. When you move the defrost/heat control does crank on front of plenum move and floor air or blower pitch change at all.

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