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Posted

I assume you are trying to remove the rear wheels? The #16 thread maybe okay but the 2 3/8 ID seems as though it is OD? The width of the nut?

Short of having one machined, the old fashioned method is:

Remove cotter pin

Remove castle nut

Screw castle nut on backwards so flat side of nut is facing you. Screw the nut down so it is just above the threads.

Jack up very slightly the opposite side of the car. For example, if you are working on the drivers side rear wheel; jack up the passenger side rear end an inch or so; so the tire is still on the ground but the weight has transferred to the side you are working on removing.

Take a sledge hammer and very, slowly tap on the nut.This may take several times. You do not want a baseball swing. It could strip the threads.

Try Liquid Wrench around area between the shaft and the wheel.

May need a couple of applications every few hours if the hub cap was missing and the shaft was exposed to the weather.

I have a '28 STD 6

Best Wishes

Paul

Posted

I assume you are trying to remove the rear wheels? The #16 thread maybe okay but the 2 3/8 ID seems as though it is OD? The width of the nut?

Short of having one machined, the old fashioned method is:

Remove cotter pin

Remove castle nut

Screw castle nut on backwards so flat side of nut is facing you. Screw the nut down so it is just above the threads.

Jack up very slightly the opposite side of the car. For example, if you are working on the drivers side rear wheel; jack up the passenger side rear end an inch or so; so the tire is still on the ground but the weight has transferred to the side you are working on removing.

Take a sledge hammer and very, slowly tap on the nut.This may take several times. You do not want a baseball swing. It could strip the threads.

Try Liquid Wrench around area between the shaft and the wheel.

May need a couple of applications every few hours if the hub cap was missing and the shaft was exposed to the weather.

I have a '28 STD 6

Best Wishes

Paul

Posted

i used never seize liberlaly when i put the wheels back on. Should be no problem with rust or corosion. If i cannot find a puller, I will have to resort to method you have suggested.

Posted

Another old time method is to remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut until you can just see a space behind it, replace the cotter, and go for a drive. Doesn't always work but is likely to especially in your case of having antiseize on the taper. The stresses of cornering work it loose!

Posted

A taper is one of the only places you should NEVER use never-sieze. It is such a good lubricant, when you torque the nut to a given tension the nut is actually much tighter then it should be. The result is a split hub. Tapers should be put together clean and dry. I saw someone split a tapered motor sleeve with never-sieze. The damage cost several hundred dollars.

  • 2 weeks later...

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