kd4gfy Posted November 8, 2006 Posted November 8, 2006 I need a wheel puller for my 26 DB Business sedan. It should have #16 threads and be 2 3/8 inch ID. kd4gfy@earthlink.net
Paul Bohlig Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 I assume you are trying to remove the rear wheels? The #16 thread maybe okay but the 2 3/8 ID seems as though it is OD? The width of the nut?Short of having one machined, the old fashioned method is:Remove cotter pinRemove castle nutScrew castle nut on backwards so flat side of nut is facing you. Screw the nut down so it is just above the threads.Jack up very slightly the opposite side of the car. For example, if you are working on the drivers side rear wheel; jack up the passenger side rear end an inch or so; so the tire is still on the ground but the weight has transferred to the side you are working on removing.Take a sledge hammer and very, slowly tap on the nut.This may take several times. You do not want a baseball swing. It could strip the threads. Try Liquid Wrench around area between the shaft and the wheel.May need a couple of applications every few hours if the hub cap was missing and the shaft was exposed to the weather.I have a '28 STD 6Best WishesPaul
Paul Bohlig Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 I assume you are trying to remove the rear wheels? The #16 thread maybe okay but the 2 3/8 ID seems as though it is OD? The width of the nut?Short of having one machined, the old fashioned method is:Remove cotter pinRemove castle nutScrew castle nut on backwards so flat side of nut is facing you. Screw the nut down so it is just above the threads.Jack up very slightly the opposite side of the car. For example, if you are working on the drivers side rear wheel; jack up the passenger side rear end an inch or so; so the tire is still on the ground but the weight has transferred to the side you are working on removing.Take a sledge hammer and very, slowly tap on the nut.This may take several times. You do not want a baseball swing. It could strip the threads.Try Liquid Wrench around area between the shaft and the wheel.May need a couple of applications every few hours if the hub cap was missing and the shaft was exposed to the weather.I have a '28 STD 6Best WishesPaul
kd4gfy Posted November 10, 2006 Author Posted November 10, 2006 i used never seize liberlaly when i put the wheels back on. Should be no problem with rust or corosion. If i cannot find a puller, I will have to resort to method you have suggested.
Layden B Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 Another old time method is to remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut until you can just see a space behind it, replace the cotter, and go for a drive. Doesn't always work but is likely to especially in your case of having antiseize on the taper. The stresses of cornering work it loose!
nearchoclatetown Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 A taper is one of the only places you should NEVER use never-sieze. It is such a good lubricant, when you torque the nut to a given tension the nut is actually much tighter then it should be. The result is a split hub. Tapers should be put together clean and dry. I saw someone split a tapered motor sleeve with never-sieze. The damage cost several hundred dollars.
kd4gfy Posted November 23, 2006 Author Posted November 23, 2006 Thanks for the input guys. I have been able to purchase a wheel puller.beau
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