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Need help (lots of help!) on restoring a 1940 Buick Century


twosfamily

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Greetings!

I am new to this forum and please forgive my ignorance regarding Pre-War automobiles in general and the current Century I am restoring to be specific. This is my first effort restoring a car of this vintage. I want to keep it as original as possible. As far as I can tell, it is all original. But I could use help decoding the numbers and in the detailing the cars frame, chassis, interior and engine bay. Here are the numbers on the body tag: 1940 Model 61, Style No. 40-4619, Body No. L 794, Trim No. 809, Paint No. 541. The serial number on the engine block is: 54535457. Any help in decoding these numbers would be greatly appreciated. Are there any sources for parts? I could use two front doors, trunk lid and the drivers side floor. I could use all the rubber seals/gaskets and numerous smaller parts. Also, if anyone has suggestions as to any books or websites on detailing the car from front to back would be greatly appreciated, too. Thanks again for your time!

Regards,

Todd

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

First of all, welcome to the wonderful (and sometimes strange) world of Buick. The Body number of L794 tells us your car was built at Linden, NJ. the 794th model 61 there for that year. I've got the trim and paint numbers at home and will send them to you this evening. The engine number you give, however, seems contradictory. The first digit you give is a 5, which is a small series engine for a Super. Yours should start with 6 for a Century. Please check that. If the first digit turns out to be a 6, the rest of the number (4535457) is for a 1942 engine. Don't panic! The difference between a 1940 engine and a 1942 engine is almost nil.

There are several websites that can help you. The rubber parts you can get from a company named "Steele" in the Carolinas. Also, please join the Buick Club of America. See their website.

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

There's another number you didn't give that could help us Buick number buffs get you information. It's called the "frame Number" and it's on a small plate that's on top of the frame rail, below and just behind the battery. If your car was built at Linden, the first digit will be a 3 and the balance will be between 3596807 and 3880012. You'll need it to figure out some of the parts book info.

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

Some production quantity information for you: In 1940, Buick built 8597 model 61's for US use and 111 for overseas use. In addition, there were 194 Century convertible sedans (Model 61C) for US use and 9 for overseas customers. Also, there were 179 cowl jobs (Model 610) usually for US ambulance builders and 98 cowl jobs for overseas use. Centurys aren't the rarest Buicks, but they're far from common and the name Century is well-deserved, as top speed is usually slightly over 100 mph. (Be sure you're on good tires before you try that !!)(Brakes, too!!)

Regards, Dave Corbin

PS: My garage is inhabited by a 1939 Roadmaster and a 1938 Special 2 door Self-shifter.

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

Trim code 809 is for an interior of "Tan Bedford Cord" and Paint code 541 is for "Carlsbad Black".

Wheel color can be black (Standard) or Dante red (optional). Silver wheel stripes on both standard and optional wheels. It should be a great looking car. The color scheme matches my 38 Special with its red wheels.

Regards, Dave Corbin, South Central Regional Director, Buick Club

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Guest 1937RHDNZ

To Dave, I read with interest, some of the top speeds that are mentioned. Assuming speedo is reading normally, correct tyres, flat road, no wind etc, ie ideal conditions, what top speed would, say my '37 model 47 expect to show on the speedo. Also assuming engine is in top condition and tuned to perfection. I enquire about this to get a better indication of correct engine tuning. I have just done my brakes and front suspension up, so took the car for a blat and it didnt seem to want to go much over 70, engine seemed flat, maybe the vacuum advance is not right or something. regards Neil Fredric

FYI our New Zealand open speed limit is 100KPH ie 62 MPH

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Neil:

Notice the discussion centers on rear axle ratios pretty quickly. I would expect Buick to put high numerical ratios in cars going overseas, based on the practices on other parts of the car. It would not surprise me to find out your car is equipped with something that would absolutely pull a stump, but won't go much over 65-70, even all wound up! What you have to do is a ratio check or inspection of the diff. If you've got a 4.44 (40/9), you would be doing well to get 70. My self-shifter, at 3.615 (47/13) would be going 22.8% faster at the same RPM. 70 MPH (your car) times 1.228 (my car) is 86 MPH. In KM, your 110 KPH is mine at 136 KPH. I would think your "bobbies" would get a bit snarly on that, especially in a LHD car!

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Guest 1937RHDNZ

Thanks Dave, I think you have hit the nail on the head. My diff is most likely to be the standard 4.44 ratio. The car pulls away strongly from 10MPH in top gear, and I'm sure it would pull almost anything along it wanted to. I have now dragged out some info and I see that at 70mph the engine is reving at 3679rpm {which is getting right up there} and the engine horsepower is dropping off from the 3200rpm peak. Not to worry cruises nicely at 55 to 60mph. Also it very hard to not smile when you are passing another slow vehicle, I like to give the throttle a bit extra, to rub it in a bit, as we pass, great feeling! PS my Series 47 car is RHD and from some number crunching appears to be 1 of only 60-70 RHD export 47's made, which is good. Regards Neil

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Neil:

My calculations would indicate that 3680 RPM at 70 MPH and 15'' Tyres would indicate a diff somewhere around 4.25 to 4.5, so 4.44 is probably it. Pull stumps, drag race with the modern iron, but 60 is the end of the comfort zone. 70 and 3680 RPM is approaching 3300 feet per minute of piston travel, which is plenty fast enough. A 302 Chevy would be doing 3300 FPM at about 5000 RPM, for comparison.

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Dear Dave,

Thanks for the information. I checked the frame number. It is: 33663921. The motor number is: 54535457. This seems to indicate that the engine was replaced? What information does the frame number provide? I really need some sheet metal for the car. Any suggestions on where I may find some? Thanks again for your help!

Regards,

Todd

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I believe the 40 Model 41 & 61 share the same body so the doors should be interchangable. (please check carefully as I am NOt positive about this.

For replacement parts you could try Bobs Automobilia 805 434 2963. I know they carry Steele products at a discount under Steele's price.

You might try Dave Tachney (I don't know his phone # but he advertises in the Buick Bugle) for the used parts that you need.

Bill

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

That first 3 in your frame number is the code for Linden, which matches the "L" in the body number and confirms a car built at the Linden, NJ. plant. That 5 in the motor number should be a 6, but it's not unknown to stamp something wrong. Also, there could be some painted over dirt. If it's the big 320 engine fot a Century, the cylinder head will be about 34 inches long, as compared to a small 248 engine only being about 30 inches long. A tape measure is plenty accurate enough.

Regards, Dave Corbin.

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Dear Dave:

Thanks for the confirmation of the frame number with the body tag. There is no doubt the number on the engine code is 5. I currently have the car completely stripped to bare metal (body and frame), frame off. I wasn't going to go so far with the restoration but I can not help it. The car is so interesting. The other odd thing about the engine is that the cylinder head is 34" but it is painted the turqoise or aqua color. I thought the original color for a 1940 Buick Century 320 engine should be the grey color? The paint on the engine seems to be original. I know someone could have simply painted the engine or the engine could be from another year. But, that number stamping thing has me stumped. Unless, like you mentioned, it may have been stamped wrong. Also, the car has the dual side mount spare tires. Was this ever offered on the Century model 61? Thanks again for all your help!

Regards,

Todd

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

Remember that I said that the engine number you gave was for a 1942? Paint color originally on the engine would be 1942 color, not 1940 color. Since you've got it to the point where you could paint it, I would suggest 1940 gray.

Sidemounts were available on a 1940 Century. Page 189 of "The Seventy Years of Buick" has a picture of a side-mounted Model 61, if you can find a copy.

Thanks for the kind words on the help, it's good for morale!!!

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

If you think about the guy who is actually stamping that engine of yours, if he leans the stamp slightly to the right and towards the top, a hand stamp of 6 might produce a stamp mark that looks like an S or a 5. 34 inches makes it a 320 big series straight eight, no matter what else goes on !

Regards, Dave Corbin

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Absolutely! I have another question regarding detailing the engine bay and frame. Are the suspension components and misc. items like the horn, steering box, etc. originally black or are there other colors for bare metal or cast items and the like? Are there any reference materials available to help in the detailing process? Thanks again for all the guidance!

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Guest DaveCorbin

Dear Todd:

I think what you need to get is a copy of the BCA judging handbook. The BCA office should have them in stock. The Handbook is a compilation of everything folks know about the kinds of questions you're asking. Buick's general practice was to paint the chassis with "el Cheapo" black before the body was mounted. The result is a low gloss (not flat) on most of the chassis items and the bottom of the steering items. Stuff lasted about a year, then the usual rust bugs bit.

Regards, Dave Corbin

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