Guest imported_bcboy Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 mechanic just replaced head, gasket, belts etc etc.car starts and after 15 minutes on the road stalls out (in traffic no less) will not start. wait 15 minutes and it starts right up to repeat the whole process again! any ideas??? (for me to suggest to the mechanic>>as you all know by now I am mechanically illiterate) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willhelm Reichert Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 First check for codes. info here. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.htmlthrowing parts at it can get expensive but one I would suggest if there are no codes is the Hep sensor in the distributor. I will always carry one in the Chrysler turbo I drive. They fail in many ways and heat is one of the ways they act up. They run about $80 from the dealer. Good insurance.The first thing for you is to get the codes and go back to the mechanic with them. I'm starting a diagnostics file on the Yahoo site. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ChryslersTCbyMaserat/files/ Hemi has one section on no start and I added one on engine miss. There is another link there on diagnostics with a vac gauge that is very good with short video clips showing how stuck valves etc. affect a vac gauge. Post your codes; go back to mechanic with symptoms; if he can't find it suggest hep; see if that's the problem. Let us know the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willhelm Reichert Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 One more thing. The battery connections and grounds were removed for the work. I just had a no start problem that was due to the battery terminal clamp going bad. They might look good but....That would be more along the line if the car ran good till the head gasket blew. I just checked another site and the cable connections can cause problems especially with the headllights on.I'm still betting on the hep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_bcboy Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 replaced hep as you suggested but could not start car at all. I had to have her towed. I ran the battery down trying to start her......sounded like it wanted to catch but just would not. Mechanic replaced fuel pump relay (all greek to me) and it started right up. He told me he would take the car last night since I had so many issues with it and drive it for a couple of days. When he pulled out of his shop last night it stalled across 2 lanes of traffic ( a real show stopper!). He said it would start/stall repeatedly. He pushed it with the help of a few irate travelers back into his lot and left it overnight. The first thing in the morning the car started right up and he let it run for 2 hours no problem! When he tried to drive it tonight ...it stalled. I just left him frustrated and not in a mood to talk. Could it be a battery connection? what could cause it to start sometimes and not others (currently it starts every time) and/or stop dead when driving?????? I will pass on any suggestions tomorrow when he is in a better mood. As always thank you...I would be lost without all your advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willhelm Reichert Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 What codes does it show? Key on/off/on/off/on. The check engine light will flash trouble codes if you are lucky. Does he have a scanner to get more detailed results from the computer? If not, I think it would be best to go where they can get real time codes at the time of failure. Otherwise it's a very tedious process of elimination.Taking another shot in the dark, he had to disconnect the injector wiring harness for the head removal and the wires at the connector on the engine side get pretty fried. I had a cracked wire there on one car. That would give you a weak signal for a lean condition (idle) but not enough for acceleration. this would also get worse over a short time period. He needs to pin probe the wiring from one side of the connectors to the wiring on the other side. Wiggle the wires while doing this to see if the circuit fails.There is also a ground wire from the firewall on passenger side to the back of the intake. This will cause injector firing problems if not connected. Plus the ground crossing the passenger side engine mount. If it doesn't jump from one side of the engine mount to the other, that can cause problems.Tell him my mechanic is having problems with an 84 Turissmo. That was a carbed 2.2 that was a nightmare of gadgets to meet emissions. At least he will know he is not alone. DON'T tell him a pianotuner is helping you. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Just tell him somebody with 19 years experience and 6 turbo dodges is helping you. I'm just finishing one that sat for 10 years. THAT has been a chalenge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_bcboy Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Sorry, I should have mentioned that I have checked the codes since the problem started. It always shows the code for power loss. I don't have the code book or the car in front of me but it's the code that gives as example that the battery had been disconnected etc. I believe it stated that after 15 starts this code would clear but it has never cleared so I tried to steer the mechanic in that direction.I appreciate your help with this matter. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> My wife is a piano teacher so I feel connected! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willhelm Reichert Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Code 12 not the problem. I believe it's 50 starts to clear unless reset with diagnostic tool.The last post was based on guesses of what was disturbed installing head gasket. There is one other piano tuner in Ok. with a TC!If you are in Boston you are in heaven for pianos. You have to look up Mr Falcone. He now has a pastry shop in Haverhill. Ask HIM about pianos. Email me for more piano talk.I have had fun driving up to customers with the TC. My dentist and customer got a really nice one. (Hi doc!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TCParts Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 If your Hall Effect sensor (aka distributor pick-up sensor)is bad it will not show up as a code. Try replacing it. Takes 5 minutes. That problem is very common on TCs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willhelm Reichert Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 A fuel pressure gauge taped to the hood while running would also eliminate the fuel pump as a problem source. Should be 55 psi + 1 lb for every inch of boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest StudeDude 01 Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 I'm a new member to the club---I did not see any mention of the external fuel filter being changed. As anyone know who has experienced this issue, a partially clogged filter will allow a car of any type to idle all day long and possibly even drive up to a certain speed but will stall eventually. Typically, the car will also will restart. Hope this might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rickity Posted December 14, 2006 Share Posted December 14, 2006 Sounds identical to a problem I had with my first TC. I read the codes and called an outfit out of Texas that said it was a "speed and distance" sensor. I sent them $75 or so with the old one and it cured the problem. Let me know if you need that vendor. icu2020@sbcglobal.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newTCfan Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 check the fule injector wiring on the engine heat will cook the wires and let them short out my 89 would idle fine but when i moved it would short out and cause it to stall ( just a shot in the dark ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TCBucky89 Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 New member here. Just now read this thread. I have a similar problem, but in the opposite direction, somewhat. I haven't had my 89 TC for even two whole weeks, yet. I have the problem of it running fine up and down the highway, but when I have to stop, or try slow-speed maneuvering in parking lots, it stalls and jerks, and sometimes shuts off. It will start right back, but this is a fairly annoying little quirk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 New member here. Just now read this thread. I have a similar problem, but in the opposite direction, somewhat. I haven't had my 89 TC for even two whole weeks, yet. I have the problem of it running fine up and down the highway, but when I have to stop, or try slow-speed maneuvering in parking lots, it stalls and jerks, and sometimes shuts off. It will start right back, but this is a fairly annoying little quirk.Check your TPS [Throtle Position Sensor] keep an eye to your tach as you slowly step on the gas and listen for good smooth engine operation. Give your throtle body a good spray cleaning, sounds like you have a sticky idle air motor, but you wouldn't believe the riipple affect of a flaky TPS. Don't forget to check for engine codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TCBucky89 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Thanks, Digger! I had an idea that might be the culprit. My tach doesn't work right. It jumps all over the place!! This TC sat in a garage for quite a while, unused, so I'll spray the throttle body. That worked on my Lincoln. Smoothed right out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Sometimes a flakey tach is just a flakey tach, sometimes it's a flakey signal to the tach and while you're cleaning things under the hood check inside the conector plugs to the distributor, a corroded connection here can do some really strange stuff, even make a perfectly good and clean IAM act like a sticking idle air motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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